Sentech

My motor failed about 6 months ago. I removed the door panel and the plastic lining inside to gain access to the assembly. The electric motor on mine is part of the regulator assembly and I discovered it to be not a part that could be obtained separately. A sharp tap with a plastic hammer unseized it. It's been working ever since.

Good Morning, My engine warning light illuminated this morning. I plugged in my Autel Diagnostic tool and it returned the DTC P1776. I couldn't get any further information from the fault reader (refer to service manual ) I looked on the internet all I can find is that this is a Chrysler generic code. Any whizzkids out there know what this DTC refers to Chris

From the description the motor is drawing too much current. Not sure if they can be dismantled and cleaned. Maybe get a replacement from a scrappy. My motor stopped altogether a few weeks back, gentle tap with a plastic hammer and it works a treat. Might work for you if the motor is sticking.

I fitted new struts isolators and ball joints to mine a few years ago, compressing the front springs is a bitch of a job because of the shape and width, although I have never experienced your symptoms. If the work was completed in a garage I'd take the vehicle back to them Chris

Quick update on this, I finally decided to investigate. Removed the three screws securing the door panel, gently levered of the panel, removing the clip on the door release and the two electric plugs, Removed the weather sheet gaining access to the power window.mechanism, one gentle tap of the motor with a plastic hammer and BINGO jobs a good 'un. Twenty minute job.

Can you post a photo ?

My passenger window has stopped working and the other is slow going up. Anybody got a wiring diagram and a simple method to get to the motors ? TIA Chris

Thanks for the inputs. The fluid level is spot on,and the vehicle sailed thru its inspection less than a month ago. I'll check out the other adjustments recommended this weekend and give an update.

Hi guys, I need some advice. The Red Handbrake warning light has started illuminating and giving a "Ding" when it does. This is intermittent but is becoming more frequent. Any tips, thoughts or solutions ? Chris

Jack the car up and look at the turbo, the seals might be knackered. Don't forget to use axle stands, and you'll need a good light source.

I have exactly the same vehicle from the same year. I use the Autel Maxi Diag Elite MD802 on mine. It's a few quid dearer but very good for a mid range OBD scanner. Chris

I actually did this on my Voyager about 3 years ago, it is a twat of a job. The bowed shape of the coil is the reason you can't use a standard coil compressor. I eventually succeeded using 3 good quality Tie Down Straps to put the coil under enough tension. Caution and patience is the key, a little at a time, you won't do this in one go, you have to adjust the straps one at a time, bit by bit. You can't use the top or bottom of the coil, you have to do this by VERY SLOWLY pulling the middle coils together. ALWAYS keep two straps taut as you readjust the third, eventually you'll get the damn coil under enough tension. It will work, just be VERY CAREFUL. Chris

Update I found all the relevant info in my electronic manual (using the index at the end helps) It looks fairly straightforward to replace the core. I'm ordering one tomorrow and I'll fit it next weekend. I'll take some photos for the record in case anyone else runs into this problem.

You probably have the same problem as me. I need to change my heater core because it's leaking. In my case there is a 2" plastic tube with a "U Slot" in it located on the front bulkhead, a few inches below the thermostat (you can't miss it, there's a heat shield around it). Water is dripping out at this point. You can see it easily from underneath the car (I used the light on my iphone to illuminate the area). Replacing the heater core looks reasonably straight forward in the manual. The core can be bought on line for about €37.00, make sure you buy the correct one, they changed the design in July 2007. I am going to order the core tomorrow and replace next weekend, I'll post my findings. Quick update I was having the same symptoms as you, and I also found that my radiator was leaking. This is also easy to replace and can be bought online for a reasonable price. A couple of hours and you're done.

Can anyone supply me with instructions on how to replace the heater core in my 2006 (December) Voyager 2.8 CRD ? Pictures would be a bonus. I've searched the workshop manual, can't find any references. Water is spilling out thru the small plastic pipe on the front bulkhead. How much of the front fascia needs to be removed and is it a DIY task ? My vehicle is LHD. I can get the core easy enough online. Chris

Hi Big Nev, I'm currently in Chester. My driveway slopes down and for some reason I never saw a leak from the front (saw a small pool beneath the thermostat housing area but nowt else). Took it on numerous test drives, absolutely fruitless. I dipped the oil to see if it had risen (head gasket). It was high but when I put a lighter to it it didn't hiss or spit, then I thought hang on you PONKER put it on level ground. I did this the oil level was fine but when I topped up the expansion tank I felt water dripping onto my left foot. I removed some plastic from above the radiator and hey presto a friggin leak on the radiator just visible behind the condenser.

Thanks for the responses guys, I'm currently in UK but discovered I can get a OEM radiator in Portugal (where I live). Going to order the radiator middle of next week. It should be delivered when I get home 17th. I'll post the results with some photos. Chris

What a mother f***er, My car has been throwing me a curve ball. It has nothing to do with the thermostat opening. It's the damn Radiator. This morning I parked the vehicle on level ground (it's normally on my sloping driveway) I filled the expansion tank (AGAIN) when suddenly I saw water dripping onto the floor. I removed some plastic to get a clearer view, and low and behold at the front of the radiator, right at the top behind the A/C Condenser (where I couldn't see) is a leak on the radiator. Under the "U tube principle" the water level has been dropping to the level of the hole in the radiator and seeping down. So driving 25 kms every day, to heat the water to operating temp for troubleshooting, has been a complete waste of time, the damn water had already gone. It always fell to the level of the bottom of the expansion tank where it stops leaking (U tube principle again). This explains why I lost 3 liters of water yesterday when the car didn't even move the whole day. With the amount of water coming out I don't think radweld is going to help. Question for any Voyager gurus out there:- Can I change the radiator without removing the Condenser & Oil Cooler ? Chris

I posted this in the newbie forum a few weeks ago, thought I'd better transfer it here to see if I can get more answers. I started using and excessive amount of water a couple of weeks back on my 2.8 CRD 2006 Voyager. The leak ONLY STARTS when the vehicle reaches operating temperature, one would automatically assume top water hose or thermostat housing. Unfortunately this is not the case. Looking underneath with the engine running, above the turbo, but below the thermostat there is a 2" plastic pipe with an odd "U" shaped channel in it, sticking out thru a heat shield in the bulkhead. There are a couple of photos in the newbie forum under the same topic (Excessive Leak dated 13th June) showing the location of this pipe Occasionally water can be seen spitting out of this pipe but nowhere near the quantity I'm losing in total. I have a pdf workshop manual but it doesn't show this in the cooling system. I am wondering if it is some kind of overflow or over pressurization from the heater matrix ? (Pure guess). If there is anybody out there who has experienced this problem or knows what this pipe is for I would be eternally grateful for information. I am losing about 1 liter of water for every 10 kms. There's no visible sign of this water leak, nothing under the car, the carpets are bone dry, the oil level in the engine is steady, there's no white sludge inside the rocker cover, there's no steam in the exhaust, but still I'm losing water. I parked the car on Tuesday evening, topped up the expansion tank, came out this morning (Thursday) and had to put 3 liters of water in the expansion tank again ................ the damn car hadn't moved in 2 days. I thought it might have been the cap on the expansion tank itself so I fitted a new one, ..... still the same result. Chris

I have attached a view from the top and from the bottom. The pipe in question is sticking out of the bulkhead surrounded by a heat shield. It has a "U" profile that can clearly be seen. It is near the water pump, underneath the Thermostat Housing and above the Inlet Pipe to the Turbo (to take photo from underneath I removed the Turbo Inlet Hose. Be aware this damn pipe only leaks AFTER the engine reaches operating temperature. Chris

Thanks for the response, I've been a bit busy the last couple of days. I'll try and get a photo tomorrow. I'll look for the supply and return hoses for the heater matrix too. When I located this leak. I had thought cracked thermostat housing but can't see any evidence of it.

Sounds to me like you need to change the ATF and the filter in the transmission.

Hi I'm new to the forum. I started using and excessive amount of water a couple of weeks back on my 2.8 CRD 2006 Voyager. The leak ONLY STARTS when the vehicle reaches operating temperature, one would automatically assume top water hose or thermostat housing. Unfortunately this doesn't appear to be the case. Looking underneath with the engine running, above the turbo, but below the thermostat there is a 2" plastic pipe with an odd "U" shaped channel in it, sticking out thru a heat shield in the bulkhead. The water is coming out of this pipe at a rate of 1 liter for every 2 kms. I have a pdf workshop manual but it doesn't show this in the cooling system. I am wondering if it is some kind of overflow or over pressurization from the heater matrix ? (Pure guess). If there is anybody out there who has experienced this problem or knows what this pipe is for I would be eternally grateful for information. I can imagine with the limited access space, that putting the vehicle into a garage will cost more than the vehicle is worth. Chris