Sentech

Well after a lot of hair pulling and "blue" language I seem to have cleared the fault after finding a bad earth. No more squares around PNRD321, and she's shifting up and down the gears again Thanks RichardM and Bignev for steering me in the right direction

Long story, 2.8 CRD 2007, New head gasket (correct size and properly torqued), eight valve lifters, new top end gasket set, new water pump, timing belt and pulleys, fitted at 90 degrees after TDC using camshaft and crankshaft locking pins. Now the sad part: First start ok ....... will not accelerate beyond 2500 rpm. Stripped it it all down again (except the head gasket), reassembled ............. same story The damn thing is in "Limp Mode" PNDR123 all have little green squares indicating this fact. The engine work was done in situ and I didn't touch the gearbox. ANY IDEAS ????

Just had mine out to do the head gasket. A liberal soak in WD 40 overnight and a couple of gentle taps with a plastic hammer and they came out easy.

Useful to know, although one of the original posts referred to a 2007 which should be the same as mine.

WHOA, WHOA, WHOA !!!!!! If you're referring to the 4th Generation CRD engine, the fuel filter sits at the lower front side of the engine. It's situated below the top water hose, between the Fuel Pump and the Starter Motor. You replace it from underneath Chris

Sounds Like dirt in the fuel tank to me

What about the geometry of the Mcpherson struts ? I had a similar issue some years ago, and the struts were all to cock

Can one of the moderators remove this particular post please, I can't

I've got my 2.8 stripped down right now. I don't believe the engine would come out thru the from the front there just isn't he space. What are you planning to do ? In situ I have the head off, exhaust manifold and Turbo.

Is it possible to remove the engine with a floor crane but leave the automatic gearbox in place ?

dave62pb, Not touched the vehicle since Wednesday last, we went to the beach for the weekend The job is a pig if like me, you do the water pump as well, the work area is so limited, TBH it's probably easier with the engine out That idea with the clothes pegs is pretty nifty, I'm gonna try that before I do anything else Update to follow

Actually I have a bit of a dilemma. I changed the water pump and the timing belt and the engine ran. Should mention here that I did it using the cambelt locking pins. Sadly the gasket on the water pump leaked, guess I wasn't careful enough when I installed it. To cut a long story short I set the engine with the timing marks, locked the camshafts again, then removed the timing belt AGAIN, removed the pump, reassembled the rubber gasket adding a splodge of Hylomar Gasket sealant, refitted the pump and belt .................. I haven't done anything different to the first time BUT the engine won't fire up, she just spins on the starter motor. No nasty noises coming from the engine, she just refuses to start. Suggestions, bearing in mind the engine ran first time and I used the same timing marks second time round Is the position of fuel pump critical ???................... I didn't think it was being a CRD Chris

I'm in the middle of this job (in situ), timing is set, pins are in but getting the water pump out was a nightmare. Gonna reassemble tomorrow Does anyone have any inputs on an easy way to get the pump, in with the five 10mm bolts and that damn 8mm bolt for water pipe bracket ??? Talk about a tight squeeze, I'm dreading trying to put the rear timing cover back on. I tried watching the Russian guy on youtube but he doesn't show the pump change. Looking for useful hints.

Just about to do this job myself. It will probably take the best part of a day, even with all the necessary pins

Thanks to maxcaddy and dave62pb for your inputs. I'm going to do the full hit and change the water pump too, so I Just ordered a locking pin set. Does anybody have a diagram or a photo of the cam and crankshaft locking locations ? If I understand correctly I only lock these three places. I watched a guy on youtube changing the belt on a 2,8 CRD Jeep. Apart from it not being transverse engine and having a cooling fan on the front, is it basically the same engine ? I ask this because the locking pins fit both engines. Chris

My Timing Belt has done about 50K miles (since it was last changed) but it's over six years old so I intend to change it Can it be done without removing the Camshaft Sprockets or do I have to invest in the special tool to lock everything in place ? How difficult is this job to do in situ ?

UPDATE: It shames me to admit this but, it appears that a new set of disc pads on the front may have cured my problem. When I inspected them. they were VERY WORN to put it mildly, which is a bit odd as the vehicle passed it's annual inspection last month. The right hand side MORE SO than the left, indicating some drag on that side, though I never noticed any pull to the right. My fuel consumption based on my last tank refuel appears to have returned to normal. BTW I can buy brand new BOSCH injectors locally at €210 + €100 deposit, refundable when I return my injectors ............. though I'm fairly confident it won't come to that.

Could one of the admin please remove the four bullsh*t "voodoo" adds that were posted in the classifieds yesterday Chris

just out of interest what would a set of refurbished or new injectors cost ? I'm in Northern Portugal and yes it can get cold here, last night it was - 2C I always completely fill my tank when I get fuel, that's how I noticed this problem. Now that I think about it, that pre heater (which still works on my car) could be a contributing factor.

My own viewpoint on the fuel "Screw Up" was that I hadn't driven far enough for the 60/40 Diesel / Petrol mix to even reach the injectors. BUT The fuel consumption does appear to have increased over recent months to cause me some alarm. Maybe it's just the repeated short journeys. We seldom drive more than 10 kms in any given direction, so the car only just reaches its operating temperature. The engine itself operates just fine, no bangs, knocks or misfires, it just uses a lot of fuel recently.

I serviced the Vehicle when I drained the tank. Fuel filter, air filter, oil and filter. The Vehicle just passed it's vehicle inspection so the brakes and tyres are fine. I'm just a bit concerned that she' s drinking diesel a lot more than in the past. How much do injectors cost and how big a job is it to change them out ? My 2.9 CRD is 13 years old but low mileage, I'm trying to decide if new injectors are worth it.

It used to average out at about 26-28 mpg (imperial) this has dropped to about 24 mpg. Then again the vehicle is seldom used for journeys of more than 10 miles (urban) It's LHD and measures in ltrs /100km on the computer. It used to do about 550 (ish) on a full tank now I'm looking at 500 (ish) Personally I don't think driving 3 miles on a 60/40 diesel mix would have damaged the injectors but I 'm seeking opinions.

I made a BIG mistake some months ago. I inadvertently put 26 litres of lead free 95 octane petrol into my diesel 2.9 CRD ............... brain freeze and not paying attention. That said, I realized my mistake immediately, drove 1.5 miles to my house, removed and drained the entire tank, and fitted a new fuel filter. The car is still running fine BUT my average fuel consumption is a bit off. I'm getting about 12 ltr/ 100km (urban driving). I have a niggling suspicion the injectors are goosed. Are they expensive to buy ? Has anyone changed them ? Chris

I made a BIG mistake some months ago. I inadvertently put 26 litres of lead free 95 octane petrol into my diesel 2.9 CRD ............... brain freeze and not paying attention. That said, I realized my mistake immediately, drove 1.5 miles to my house, removed and drained the entire tank, and fitted a new fuel filter. The car is still running fine BUT my average fuel consumption is a bit off. I'm getting about 12 ltr/ 100km (urban driving). I have a niggling suspicion the injectors are goosed. Are they expensive to buy ? Has anyone changed them ? Chris

That front suspension doesn't look right to me. I changed my struts a few years ago, given the shape of the coil springs it's not an easy DIY.