SpAwNtoHell

I always thought that my sliding rear doors are fine, but recently passenger side is noisy every time i lock and unlock the car compared to driver side. Started searching the internet and i know think they were not fine since day 1. Are they supposed to open from outside and inside manually and after the electric takes over? My ones open from inside only electric by driver button, fob or pillar button. Later i will post a video of the sound that annoys me. Are any known faults with this doors/ causes/ fixing tips? for the mk5? I was aware that mk4 had issues with doors and gearboxes but not mk5.

On the GV rt is not helping with the sound... like making the engine sound quieter... Today i was driving it and i thought is in there only to get home and find that was actually in the garage. over the weekend i will try a db meter test from behind the steering wheel.... i doubt will be 1-2 db quieter... but it looks nicer when bonnet is up and looks like was meant to protect wires etc. I took my one off as the rubbers are aged and i am looking for a solution as i want to avoid the rubbers to perish and rub against something.

Right... back to drawing board. Last night i used the cheapo tool on the car and noticed it can see 3 modules of the car only(not a clue which ones but probably engine is one of them), another 8 modules are N/A to read... Now i can only assume that the EML reacts to one of those, but the key dance also does not access that module to display the code. The funny thing is i used the option erase all codes on the reader and it put EML off .... i was not expecting it to do anything really... to convince myself it sees the engine dtc i disconnected the MAF, and ...P0100 mass air flow sensor, done the key dance and got the same... put it back cleared the code all fine. Took the car for a 12 mile drive...that is 45 minutes this side of the woods all fine... stopped at the petrol station to get a coffee, jumped back in started, 0.5 miles later engine light on... If your guess is that is no code on the key dance your right... same on the reader. This time i was alone in the car no controls doors messed up with except me on the steering wheel... so i am excluding media system or something like that. It cannot be a weak battery as i checked that already... i was looking at this Witech clone...but not really convinced,..

V5c will not state engine code, only serial number. What are you after if i may ask?

Acording to your other topic should be ENR engine code cambelt driven with twin camshaft sprockets. Engine number is on your v5c. If you pass the reg and vin to any decent part suplier will able to double confirm engine code and parts match.

Warranty is a grey shaded area. Is only for manufacture defects, so bassicaly is it happens later and it can fall under wear and tear factor... you get to pay. Another warranty gimmick is for used cars sale as that is even worse, and most of time claims cannot exceed 500£ ... that would barrely cover a simple sensor the diagnostic for finding the fault and the labour... i pretty much refer at a sensor that you can acually pop the bonnet diconect it and take it out and put the new one in..

Anyone here done a gearbox software update? If yes, what changed with the update? Anyone changed their oil? When and how? My one gets close to 90k miles so I recon it needs it. Opinions/pros/cons/tips welcome. Regards,

I am interested to in this, but for the purpose of retro fitting...

Before a Admin jumps on my back, i know i am a year late but this applys also to uk models as in this video... just in case anyone else gets this gremlin.

I use this: but i buy from them through e-bay shop. Have not ordered over the phone, the person managing the online part through e-bay is very prompt at answering queries and even listing parts that are not listed if you ask for them. They also have most of the stuff MOPAR VM motori which are genuine parts.

@@Detroit69 did you done it in the end? Crysler workshop manual states 125k miles, no years but i somehow be very reluctant not to check it at least... I am doing mine soon... No is not the same engine like mk4 or at least is a progression of previous. Cam-belt wise you only have one cam sprocket that drives both inlet and outlet through a gear .... here is a link to the VM motori kit and the coolant. http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/SpAwNtoHell/service%20interval_zpslylh6kxt.jpg If you need the steps also to achieve the change i can pass the info if needed, You will need also the locking tools.

Yes, to bad that the car EML does not agree with it... I wonder if this could put some light on things, tho I think I cannot wait 3 weeks to get it. Anyone knows if is another light for transmission or in the key dance all codes are displayed if any?

Optima AGM is the genuine replacement, my one was replaced in 2014 and is still going strong and gets a lot of abuse... by the time everyone gets in the voyager ( kids first...and play about all lights doors dvd ussually takes 20 minutes)then we start and get going. Other batterys AGM type work but some do not fit ( moding is needed to the tray) . Anyway i choosed also the original as exide varta wont save more then 20£-40£ or so ... but yes stealers and eurocarparts...will double the price as you stated.

Hello, i think you look at the issue in the wrong place... i think your transmision is fine, but your transmision works/shifts/reacts based on engine torque, which i think now you have a lack of. I got this issue on a different car before... if you have someone who can read in interpret engine live data you will fknd out probably that one of the engine sensors does not relate properly to the ecu the right parameters. In my case was the maf sensor tho was not giving any error codes, but is reading was wrong and i was low on torque. That is the reason that you need to rev it to start moving. Worth considering my point i think as like you i even went as far at getting gearbox checked 4 different places and i was about to change it with a recon one.

@@Taffy, I edited the post with 3 links, last link is mine. So... MIL is on, even after starting the engine, and the code is ------- and done after, only started today, normally after ignition on, after all modules do their checks abs, esp, tmps.... engine light stays on till started, when started should go off, now is on all the time. I thought that i am checking for DTC the wrong way, my cheapo also says no DTC, even with engine running...

i wonder if i do it the wrong way then? is it explained anywhere except this video? or this? and mine does this one....

Hello, I want to buy a diagnostic for this voyagers mk5 for the main purpose of reading the fault codes mainly. What do you guys use recommend? Interface/software/etc Note: I am not after the diagnostics that go in 4 digits.Not really interested in the other makes. Main purpose is Chrysler grand voyager RT. ENS engine PS: right now i am running in circles with a engine on light and i cannot figure out what it is for as i do not have even a limp mode... and my scanners connect and find nothing... but are still able to reset it.

I have a Grand voyager RT 2.8 CRD 58 plate with the cover, i can take pictures and maybe look up if any part number on it... if anyone still interested... i find it a bad design tho... i rather not have it on the engine....

hello, Not sure if this is of any help, but let me know and will take it from there. http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/SpAwNtoHell/300_zpsbud6glde.png

Hello everyone, Found you google ing if you know what i mean, Initially the purpose was to do my homework on Chrysler grand voyager if is worth the hassle. I am activating on other forum not Chrysler related. I hope to get some answers here and offer some in the limit i have them.