SpAwNtoHell

Unless the radiator was changed at some point should look like my first picture.

yes i can confirm they work i already bought them from the same seller, kind of expensive but... i could put the cover on now..

One picture is as 1000 words maybe? http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/SpAwNtoHell/coolant_zpsewelh4uf.jpg i used a stubby large flat bed screwdriver, some small grips will do also, should not be that tight also just under the red is also a small pipe, where coolant will run out from i put a 30cm hose so i can direct it straight in a large bowl, you going to get about 6-7 l out of it the rest of 4-5 will remain in cooling system, that is the reason i chose to fill the system with tap water multiple times to flush it. http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/SpAwNtoHell/drain%20cock_zpsqfbmphab.png http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/SpAwNtoHell/drain_zpst0jyx2va.png hope it helps.

Jack each side individually, in park with engine running, get someone to press or release breake pedal, in the same time you spin the wheel and should run freely and when brake pressed should stop firmly. For front you need to keep it in neutral as park locks the axle. Another posibility is vacuum or lack of at the servo braking unit, as you look under the bonnet is on the left under dash. Just remembered is yours lhd or rhd as i said on the other topic about the coolant draining "tap" passenger side for rhd assuming is rhd if is lhd is obviously driver side. For the brake issue some garages that do mot will make you a brake test and give you a print out for each wheel how much kg of force braking achieves, that is very good for finding out if you have imbalance braking on the same axle jn order where to tackle the issue.

Yes indeed a issue with the gasket. Not sure why they would use the gasket, i know it comes with all aftermarket filters, but chrysler 62te workshop manual( and rebuilding manual states clearly not to use it and use silicon. I tend to do the work myself, and before hand i gater all neccessary info and data... etc so from the point of opening this topic i used the previous experience, gathered a lot of documentetion and diagnostic also some specialized tools for this "alien". I already have a few places that i can get most of the parts and consumables if i need them but some i still get only from states.

Is on the right side, passenger side of the car, is like a small tap, i have a picture somewhere i will try to find and link it when i get to pc. Tips: i would use water few times till it clears, thats how i did my one after replacing cambelt and water pump. So i filled the system with plain water, drive it few miles, drain it when it cooled down and so on till was almost clear as i was unsure what coolant was in there before, i mixed 50% the concetrated mopar one and gived md almost 8l of which i used about 6 and toped up once 300ml as self bleeding occurs under driving conditions. Hope it helps.

Thanks got it sorted, was the lock actuator being noisy.

The lever or the pedal? The pedal is referd to as service brake. You can check the calipers as are known for seizing on this model.

Hello thanks for your reply, the interval is stated 60000 in chrysler dodge jeep workshop manual but indeed would be needed sooner depending on driving conditions, as for checking should be checked every 1200 indeed, at least i do. The first point of failure for this boxes is transmission oil either wrong type or under min level. Second most common is solenoid pack. The software update just smoothes some spikes on power curve and results in certain conditions of driving smoother shifts.

this might help: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Outside-Mirror-Left-Indicator-Chrysler-Voyager-RT-2008-2015-ESS-RT-012A/323330517819?hash=item4b48002b3b:g:j7sAAOSwvPZbPLcz and https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Outside-Mirror-Right-Indicator-Chrysler-Voyager-RT-2008-2015-ESS-RT-013A/323330529835?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D52543%26meid%3D00c39919bbb84f5eb1469ca4e9049f5c%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D2%26sd%3D323330517819%26itm%3D323330529835&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 part numbers are 68052078AA, 68052078AB, 68052078AC for right and 68052079AA, 68052079AB, 68052079AC for left

any codes>?

not sure if is to late but... you have a seat position sensor part number is 5084008AA pm me to confirm... ps: i just fixed my crystal ball

Engine cover/noise cover for 2007-2009 Chrysler Grand Voyager RT 5 mounting (supporting points) 2.8 CRD engine code ENS (VM64C) has the part number 04593809AB http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/SpAwNtoHell/20180708_213554_zps14ddrphk.jpg http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/SpAwNtoHell/20180708_213646_zpsy7sumkau.jpg http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums/s658/SpAwNtoHell/20180708_213638_zps2yg0ngij.jpg And to add to this, i need to clarify, my one is noisy as it seems is missing some rubber grommets that suppose to go in those mounting points on to the engine studs...

I stand corected, just had a look i cannot deactivate the alarm with Appcar DiagFCA...

Can you acces with your diagnostic your seats control module?

You can disconnected i think(the horn). They checked the sesors but you may have switches playing up like the bonnet one?! Also earth straps make this car go looney also broken wires that go to the front doors. You can get alternatively with vitech or Appcar DiagFCA(this allows you to see all electronic see all codes and deactivate/change some functions. Vitech is dealer only the Appcar DiagFCA you can run yourself but is tied to your vin; if interested in this metod i can have a look tonight at it. I only know i have alarm on my one as once i openned the bonnet, locked the car and when i lifted the bonnet made me jump...

Some solenoids can be replaced individually and are not that much but that one requires new solenoid pack, and valve body of in the process... 0871 is electronics i wish i would of had that instead of tcc out of range... as in my case new torque converter was the only thing to sort it out. @@bignev i did not know they make mk5 with 3.3 petrol... is yours mk4?

4 fills now with the mk5 2.8crd and i constantly get 9.3l/100km acording to the computer and a range of 730km, real life from diesel light on to diesel light on i got 460 475 462 and 470 every fill was 75 74 76 and 72 liters. I am not doing it any favours for eco driving and stuff and i use it for daily comute 32 miles in the morning and the same in the evening but takes 20 minutes more in the evenings do to trafic instean of a 30-35 min trip. To be fair i was expecting more fuel usage then this... for the purpose of everyday life i consider it does 30mpg as it seems does not go much lower or higher regardeless of the way i drive. And... it drinks 1L/h on idle not bad considering the size of the engine. Might be relevant for who would wait for aircon on.

Yes i want that for the little one as she strugles to get into the car... seems no one is able to give sugestions..

Hy, i was asking as people and garages tend not to change it, first as is expensive and second the acces to it and the draining diesel.. also most garages avoid the oil filter and only change the oil... air filter... and if cabin...

Te sensor should have a seal... if seal is not sealing or dirty... the sensor should be hand tight, or tight by hand if you like. What you mean exactly by sweating? Drips forming? The cap that the filter came with has a seal, that can be used also if sensor seal is damaged leaking etc, as i noticed is the same with the sensor one. Ps: how was the old filter looking inside? You can see the state of it through the holes from the top side, not water sensor side. Should be able to see if element is white yelowish or brown... ( my one was very dark) At this stage taking of the sensor wont loose a lot of diesel so is not as chalenging that replacing the filter.

Hello, i did say is messy at some point... and yes, is right mare sealing that sump ( i need to redo my one again, i can only assume was bent previously just a tiny bit) Your level sounds low to me. With engine cold, temperature that is outside ( around 20 celsius now) start engine apply brakes ( service and hand brake) move from park to drive, slowly release service brake (pedal) the hand brake should hold it not to slip fwd, cycle the leaver through pnrd and back about 2 minutes( make sure is not moving with hand brake on...) rest it in park or neutral with hand brake still firmly on. Open bonnet ( leave engine running) remove cap measure oil level, should be just under 20mm (18-19mm) at 25 celsius for maximum and 3mm for minimum... and this is cold level. On hot, the car needs to be driven from cold in gear till engine gets to operating temperature ( not parked till engine gets warm) when the temperature gauge gets to half that is 87-89 celsius mark transmission then will be 10 celsius lower... park on level ground, leave engine running and measure oil level again ( pay atention not to get burn or have clothing getting trapped in the fan as is dengerous) i used a long sleve jumper, thick one to be covered in order to remove cap at this stage. Gearbox oil on the dipstick should be 45-46mm for maximum and 30mm for minimum. Note the warm hot gearbox oil level is just for double checking that the first measurement on cold was right to begin with. Ideally you want to be as closest to maximum but not over and under no circumstances under minimum. This worked and prove pretty accurate now that i can read temperature transmission temperature i checked again and i could prove that is right. You have to know that transmission oil as it gets hot level is rising in the end it is a hidraulic oil...special atention needs to be paid to leaks on transmission as running low/dry will kill it so any leaks need to be put right. Hope this helps, As for tool to read temperature i have a few but only with the computer based one i could read the transmission temperature ( on top of all other 28 modules in this car, check the topic with the diagnostic last post) the other option would be probably a infrared temp reading tool or a probe based tool like fluke k temp but none are really justified to buy if only for this job. Checking gearbox oil on this is weird, as they could of simply put a dipstik in there with min max cold marks on one side and min max hot on the other side... i am in the process of making such a dipstik as getting the oil right for sure was a bit of a adventure first time till i concluded the above...

took about 2 weeks for my dvd i think... or 3 cannot remember but was long... not sure why as i get stuff from china faster... usa tends to take 2 weeks also...

Welcome to the forum. In all fairness all need TLC ) depending of everyone's standards.

hello, Not a clue but i am interested also...