Alex

Yup had same issue with blue bushes,looking to go back to new black rubber ones.

Only sensor found on mine was on condenser which on mine is under bonnet up by spring cap drivers side. The button on controller doesnt seem to switch a/c on got set temperature really low. Think a/c buttons allows you to shut off a/c at low temp.

Hi. I recenlty did all bushes on rear springs. Mines Grand Voyager 2007 stow and go. Best to remove whole spring with shackles attached, easier to remove shackle bolts and cut big bush out. I changed all smaller rubber bushes on rear shackle as well,you have to reuse bolt sleeve if buy just bushe kit. One of mine wasn't great, fitted it. I'm still try to find a supplier for new sleeve. Also replaced roll bar bushes and links. Id also check shock absorber bushes, mine where still good.

Good advice Quinteq. Bad earth veey common in fact i add whole new earth from terminal to starter. Battery needs to be at least 12.5v at start-up. Have you tried manually pumping fuel system? It's a hand push button on top of fuel filter on front of engine. Also check fuse box if diesel/ fuel heater fuse has blown. Common fault on these fuel filter housing cracks and generally blows fuel heater fuse.

I had same problem on mine. After ripping my gearbox out and having it in million pieces turned out to be...... Torque converter failed. Reverse and 1st gear hesitatation are generally signs of torque converter failure. Unfortunately it's whole gearbox rebuild as generally more stuff like snap rings break due strain etc from failing torque converter. I successfully rebuild mine. Lots of info available from helpful American's on YouTube but not a job for faint hearted.

Think the specs stipulate Hoat coolant.

Well done. These are notoriously difficult to fit aftermarket radio. I use plug in bluetooth fm transmitter to connect wireless to play music from my phone. This on original radio.

Earth/Ground big black cable goes from negative on battery down to one of the bolts mounting starter motor. Smaller black earth to body under battery tray that needs removing to see earth point. I've added extra ground wires to mounting bolts of ecu and TCM computers which has fixed few faults.

Thanks for very kind offer Bignev. I've bought secondhand fuse box to scavenge parts now. You're right Spawn. Probably decimal places which I missed glancing at meter. What i took from it was three sensors resistance matched which normally means okay. I'll check again and put each reading for accuracy sake. Thanks for comments.

Hi guys. Dare I say cars fixed. Done some local running around and 100mile round trip yesterday, no hiccups. Unfortunately lost out on relays on eBay, guy refunded me said he'd sold them already. Bummer. Haven't been back to Auto Electrician, he's to busy. I'll happily give his details but should say he knows nothing about these cars which he informed before I got there. He was helpful in trying all his gear to get me computer readings. I printed wiring diagrams,plug details, gear selection charts and graphs to be able to compare to any data he could retrieve . I photoied readings as came up on his pc so could look at details later. He was the one who spoted thermostat reading. All in nice accommodating bloke,cost me £40 so not bad. https://www.diagnosticman.co.uk/

Have you removed oil filter and checked it has it's seal on. It has been known to fall off during installation. I've also heard of using two seals if damage to housing.

+1 what Spawntohell said. You must must......must make sure garage uses atf+4, no as good as or it works for every other transmission just atf+4. Quite expensive at £50 plus for 5l. They'll destroy box if use any other. Battery can cause all manor of faults. Amazing what new battery does for these chrysler. Check all terminals are tight. Next most common fault on these is faulty ground, corrosion causing bad ground. Even if looks good remove clean area and refit. You'll be amazed at faults slightly bad ground/earth causes.

Sounds like bad earth/ground. Check by using voltmeter from positive to steel nut on body and compare voltage connected straigt on battery terminals. If not exactly same you have bad ground, very common on these.What voltage is battery at?

2 seals for 2 cam shafts. Maybe wait and see if they're weeping oil. Might still have extra original chrysler seal, I'll see if can find it.

Hi. Been two years since I did mine but if remember right any of 2.5 /2.8 /ldv tools will work. Laser brand was made of better metal but thats about all. Essentially there's three locking pins you need to get before removing timing belt. Two at top engine either side locking cam shafts. Each you'll need to locate screw plug to insert pin. The third you need to remove starter motor to see. If it's never been done you'll probably find yellow plastic plug in pin location point that needs removing. Third pin locks flywheel. Need to remove left top engine mount. Also might find you need new camshaft seals.

Heading back to Auto Electrician this week to check results on Transmission temp sensor and further alternator test. Also bought two new mopar relay and their sockets to replace that corroded TCM socket and relay, £30 on eBay.

Hi. Thanks for replies. I've had some success to early to say nailed it. Let me explain. Auto Electrician squeezed me in for quick look see yesterday. His computer checked for faults, no gearbox or ecu faults. His computer was able to give live data on Transmission range sensor showing us changing gears and what each solenoid was doing. All checked fine with Chrysler service manual charts. Also showed clutch volume index or CVI for each solenoid. All within correct parameters. L/R cvi 75 2nd/4th cvi 20 O.D cvi 68 Low gear cvi 35 All of this with car on and in reverse with fault present. The only bad thing we notice was transmission temperature sensor/TTS said -20C 1.8V . Outside temp on day was 12C so obviously wrong. This sensor is built into transmission range sensor, got pull gearbox apart to change and not readily available. These sensors work on very small changes in voltage which can also occur with bad connection/corroded terminals or bad ground. I've unplugged every plug sprayed electric contact cleaner, cleaned up and Replugged. I also removed TCM from under passenger wheel arch. Opened it up. It's computer pci board in clear jelly. Jellies still crystal clear no sign of green corrosion or blackened short so think its fine. Didn't touch anything just closed it back up. Mine has Mopar remanufactured sticker on it. P/N R4727535AF. What I did do is turn it over and file mounting area that touches car body as this Tcm is ground on case. Been aluminium body another corrosion bad contact area for ground. I'm starting to think most problems on these voyagers are bad connections and bad grounds/negative. I also ran wire from negative battery to back of this Tcm case traped by mounting bolt. Finally found the TCM relay! On 2.8crd 2007 if you open bonnet in front of fuse box and ecu above radiator you'll see 5 or so black box's mounted on front beam. First three from left are radiator fans relays then TCM relay and far right is lighter grey is glow plug relay. I found TCM relay abit green corroded, cleaned and swapped with one rad fans. Reassemble car tes t drive time. We'll if you've read all this let me give you good news, car seems nearly right. Gear shifts are abit abrupt not as smooth as before but I'm thinking gearbox might need to relearn. Side note. I preformed an autopsy on old solenoid pack. Check with ohm meter coils all showed continuity so they where fine, 3 x sensors showed 250ohm each if remember right which seemed right. I then pulled 8 x tiny filter out. Each was spotless clean and mesh was white. Atf4 oil that came out rose light pink. I then un screwed and split unit. Didn't find any debri,back of coils was slightly grey. My verdict. Gearbox hasn't got blockage from debri in hydraulics. Don't think the old solenoid pack was bad. Don't regret spending £102 on brand spanking new one. Might still have to bite bullet and drop pan to check filter. Changed filter and 4l mopar atf+4 at 116k it's on 122k now. From records last changed by chrysler dealer 88k. Records also show Recon gearbox fitted 66k with new solenoid pack.

Check grounds/negative wire. Even if think it's good remove clean and refit. Check battery terminals are tight and batteries perfect. How old is battery?Voyager have to have near new batteries or electrics play up throwing all manor of fault codes. Have you had alternator checked? If all that doesn't solve problems then start fault codes. Find out your ignition key position and turn on off quick three times fault codes will appear in mileage display.

Hi.If you get down in passenger foot well and look up you'll see the pollen filter housing. If you can see the bottom of pleated pollen filter the covers missing. Which means it's bypassing heater matrix and blowing cold that side. Like that on mine and heard others same problem. Solution is to diy cover. I cut a bit of hardboard and duct tape. But someone here came up with half a bit of foam pipe lagging push in fit which been meaning to change.

Is the radio original chrysler one?

Hi. Flickering lights, dash doing strange stuff is all electrical fault. Check battery voltage should be 12.4v or higher with car not running. These voyagers need battery to be top condition or you get all sorts of faults. Check battery terminals are tight. Check grounds even if think they're good remove clean and refit (most common fault on these). And check alternator. If all this is good start checking wiring loom starting at fuse box.

I've kept checking atf4 dip stick in park. Still in between marks

Hi Spawn. There's no bog down feel to rpm when trying reverse or 1st(low). It's sort of a catch release feel, sort of neutral with sudden with catches and if revs are up it wheel spins. No feel of resistance on engine. But you've got me retracing steps done while doing solenoid pack. 1. While waiting for pack I unplugged solenoid plug, 2 x speed sensors and TCM big plug. Undid loom wrapping between and traced all wires to these. I did continuity test to see if any wires where brocken non where. Replugged everything and wrapped loom wiring again. 2. Battery was reading 12.45V, pulled out car and stuck it on charge overnight. 3. Cleaned around old solenoid pack then removed it. Cleaned gasket off. Bit atf4 spilled when pack was free. 4. Fitted new Borg Warner solenoid pack and new gasket. 5. Refit charged battery. 12.7v 6. Started car. Kept foot on brake and slowly cycled through gears to get rid of airlock. 7. Test drive 5 miles forward and reverse 100%. Success car works better than ever. Next morning take my Daughter to school 3 miles come to reverse at school back to same problem. In fact feeling worse. Things I've noted. After cars back to problem. 1. While obd2 was plugged in today with app on my phone. Showing voltage 13.7v. Now is that normal coming from computer. I mean at battery for charging,normal but isn't car computer suppose to regulate that down to 12v? 2. I've had car running pulled negative off, car still runs so to me alternator fine. 13.9v read while cars on with battery in, no button mod. 3. I've read somewhere faulty diode in alternator could interfere with Tcm. My thinking is maybe battery was fully charged so kept regulator on alternator from adding current- car 100%. After sitting overnight and cold start alternator kicked in and messed with Tcm. I've pulled battery for over night charge 12.65v read before removing. To test this mad theory tomorrow.

Just add. Through all this mine hasn't gone it limp mode, don't know if that's a good or bad thing.

Can't seem to reset gearbox computer,tcm eatx. Its 2.8 crd 2007 voyager 4 speed.Does anyone know how? Ive tried battery off etc. All stuff I've read says to do "quick learn" my obd2 reader doesn't do gearbox.