SJC

Hi Soupstone, Can you tell me what that modification is (in Billy Basic terms). I am no mechanic, so if I can't do the mod myself i will have to explain it to my mechanic. Thanks

Hi QinteQ, Thank you for your reply. I'll be honest, I don't have the level of understanding to interpret your answer, so not sure what I am supposed to do (in laymans terms) I think i just need a good Automotive Electrical Mechanic to fault find for me, but i will show them your findings to help fast track the issue. I really thought I had nailed it with the new battery as it got me right through the winter with no trouble at all. It is as if the parasitic drain had gone away and has now come back. Anyway thanks again for trying to help.

Summary and up -date I have been through a cycle of issues to do with starting.(dial sweep and then poor starting) Initially I charged battery. Some improvement for a day or so. Then I replaced rail pressure valve (immediate improvement) Then after a while it (a few months) it wouldn't start so well (needed a few attempts) and recharging battery didn't work. So I replaced the battery like for like. That worked for a while......but then it stated to cut out when driving, so replaced fuel filter housing. No improvement, so changed injectors (£1400). Immediate improvement to cut out problem....then the starting problem returned (dials doing a sweep and not starting first time) ...so I replaced battery with a much more powerful battery (£300 worth of battery) Immediate improvement. 1 year later (now) I get dial sweep and poor starting again (dial sweep and 3 or 4 attempts to start)......even after a full charge of the battery. So I am looking at parasitic drains now. Have removed fuse for stereo amplifier, but no difference. Does anyone know how to isolate / disable the tracker, as I have heard that is a potential cause of a battery drain?

Hi AndyB2000, Could you please tell me a little bit more about what the MAP/TC is. What do those initials stand for? My car has only cut out once since having the injectors changed....but once is enough. I have done all of the things you mentioned except the MAP/TC. Can you tell me what you know about this and how it might help prevent another cut out? Many thanks Sam

I have gone for a Odyssey PC1500-34/78 Battery. Cost nearly £300, but has made a world of difference. I run my car on short journeys everyday, so is up against worst-case scenario. Only been a month or so....will return here to let you all know if it was a waste of money.

Thanks Alex.....Would that cause a cut-out whilst driving? Or it is a potential solution to non-starting issue?

I am not sure. I dont think the battery that was fitted recently has enough Cranking amps and it is good for a few turn overs, and then after a few failed attempts of turning the engine, when i turn the key, the ignition simply clicks (with a red flashing light on steering column and the hazards turn on for 2 or 3 flashes.) It seems to be a flat battery, but i am not convinced. The car seems to decide that it will not even try to turn the engine (so you never hear it turning over slowly....it just stops turning over suddenly and it goes into flash lights mode. Jump starts fine, and then will start on its own thereafter.

All working fine....up until this morning (-6 degrees C). Started fine , drove 5 minutes down the road and it cuts out. Loss of power steering, but lights still on. Managed to get it t started with booster pack, because battery stopped turning the engine over (just clicked) Then after a 10 minute journey and parking up, it cuts out when stationary, after i gave it some high revs, took foot off gas, and it then stalled. Started again, gave it some gas in "Park" and it cutout again. When driving there does seem to be some lag between gear changes at low revs, or when it drops a gear.......but cant quite put my finger on it. My hunch is that there is some electrical control system which is delivering fuel which is not working....but i don't know enough about cars to be any more specific. Any clues anyone?

Thank QinteQ. It was a bit pricey, but I wouldn't sell on a dangerous car, and it was cheaper than buying a new car. The group has been helpful, so happy to record my experience.

So garage have fitted 4 new injectors, and it so far so good. They have tested it and cannot replicate the cutting out. I have only driven it short distance, but it starts well (when previously it didn't) and it hasn't cut out, when previously it might have. If anything changes I will get back on here, but for anyone else who is experiencing poor starting and cutting out here is the order of events for me: Fuel FilterPressure relief valveFuel filter housing and wiring loomPressure sensor on fuel railInjector testingNew injectors My car has been renamed Triggers Broom!

Thank you. Hopefully the injectors were the cause of my cut outs, but I guess the PCM could be on the "suspects" list.

Hi Andyb2000, The garage did a leak back test (I think), which indicated the injectors could be failing but they told me that the test could not be 100% conclusive. So they employed a specialist injector tester, who can somehow assess the functioning of the injectors (for £30 an injector) and that would tell us for sure if they were failing or functioning correctly. 3 of mine were failing and the 4th did not have a good spray profile apparently. The specialist said that with failing injectors, he would expect the car to cut out suddenly. However, this does not mean the injectors are the final piece of the jigsaw, as it is possible that something else has also failed, and finding the fault with the injectors was a "happy" coincidence, and they would have needed to be replaced anyway. The only other clue i have is that it stalled when it dropped down a gear to over take, whilst the cruise control was active. However, I could easily replicate the issue, without cruise control on, so probably nothing to do with the cruise control, but more like an acceleration issue, which maybe consistent with what the injector specialist was saying. Yes this is costing me a small fortune but, I can't sell a cut that cuts out, (other than for scrap) and £2000 is not going to buy me what i need, so a case of suck it up and hope they eventually find the offending part. I will find out tomorrow hopefully. Thanks for looking to the PCM Valve relay...I don't even know what it is or what it does. Cheers I will find out tomorrow hopefully. Thanks for looking to the PCM Valve relay...I don't even know what it is or what it does.

Very recently...last month, Injectors were in need of replacement. I find out today if that has solved the problem.

HI andyb2000, Do you know what the pcm valve relay is? It was mentioned in this post as the solution....see last post... http://www.chryslerforum.co.uk/topic/1938-intermittent-cut-out/?hl=%2Bcutting+%2Bout&do=findComment&comment=8379 Thanks

Hi Soupstone and Nathanevans: I have had the fuel filter replaced very recently (and got the garage to check that they tightened it enough and did not leave the old o-ring in place). This was at the same time as the fuel pressure sensor being replaced and the pressure relief valves being replaced. Replacing the pressure relief valve solved the starting problem. The car then started to cut out (new problem, which only presented after fixing the starting problem). The garage replace the fuel filter housing and associated electrical connections(there was a crack and wetness, as described). The garage are now looking at injectors, which will cost £££. The garage ave been able to replicate the fault in road tests, but are unsure if it is electrical or fuel related. They initially thought fuel, then changed their minds as it was cutting out so suddenly (i.e. without spluttering), and now they are thinking fuel again. The car is not presenting any fault codes, so thinks that everything is OK.....I felt slightly differently when it cut out when I was driving at 70mph on the motorway...without a hard shoulder to pull over on to!!! I trust the garage, but was wondering if anyone else had experienced the same problem, and it turned out to be a different fix other than fuel filter or filter housing. Someone mentioned a PVC Valve relay....but I do not know what that is. Any clues. Thanks