praneetsrivastav

alright I gave the wrong information earlier. it was red light not yellow . and key dance shows P1130 but i have had this code even when there was no light. i dont notice any problem while driving {no cutting off or any abnormal behaviour ]. also noticed no one was able to read code fault from my car . the mechanic actually tried to take it to few other places to read. but as per him even 15k worth diagnostic system did not read anything off my car. has any faced similar problem?

alright ..got the lights changed it and it fits perfectly. switched on yay... all white light to its full glory. and that was my short lived happiness. i took it for a spin to check road side condition.it was raining thats when i noticed problem no. 1 light was on, i started the wipers and after few mins increased the wiper speed but no change .switched off the wiper but now viper won't stop,,wont even change the speed. it only stoped after I kill the engine. in the morning wiper wont work. and in the evening after doing 20 mile trip all of sudden all dash warning lights switched on .even all gear lights. car runs fine and i was able to change gear by guess. reached home, switched off the car, took the key out but all dash lights were still on. eventually after few mins they were off. switched on the car everything as normal. so took out the led lights and now everything back to normal. not sure why seems it was doing some kind of electric overload.

So after not getting any video to change alternator. I created one while I was doing mine. here is the video of the same..

So after reading few post I realized my does not have can-bus as it started only after 2007 and mine is 2004 version. I have ordered this https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01N2G43WR/ will update once its arrive and fitted. fingers crossed ..

any chancee of attaching the ebay link. I am getting all kinds of conflicting information about canbus and not canbus etc.. :-(

unfortunately it does not as per ebay suggestions.

Hey guys, the head light on my voyager are pretty low. I have tried cleaning with toothpaste and it did clean it but still low. thinking to upgrade it to brighter lights.I have already replace the inside ones and its pretty bright now inside. Any recommendations for headlight ? has anyone changed this and has seen a better result?

Just to clarify the oil light come as soon as your put the key and do one click (no ignition). When you do one more click and start the engine.. all lights come on and eventually turns off except the seat belt should the coolant be disappearing this fast ?I don't see any visible leaks. and car temp is fine as well. (Just below the half mark after 20 mins of drive)

Today i noticed low oil light is on. but only when engine is not running. after I start the engine light goes away and car runs fine. no temp spike n all However I did notice very low coolant level which is odd because I had the car service less than a month ago and the coolant would have been topped up. is that warning related to engine oil which is current half from max point. ? any pointers ?

well I did it :-) well chuffed. Thanks for help guys. It wasn't as difficult as i thought. Garage quoted me 450 for the part+100 labor to replace the alternator. I ordered this one for 99 delivered from ebay. No garage was willing to put customer provided parts. so I decided to do it myself. and after succesfully replacing the alternator i am getting 14.6 v (with buttonmod) from it to the battery. problem solved :-) I will list steps here for anyone else in my situation. Prerequisite - Good socket set . (cheap ones will be destroyed as bolts holding the alternator are quite solid. after breaking 2 cheap ones i had ,i bought this one from halfords . - Camera to record steps so that if you forget anything you can see it back ( I might upload my version) - a long wrench to hold the tensioner in place Steps Remove the negative battery terminal remove the black big air chamber by removing a bolt and two jubilee clips holding the hose connection. once the air chamber is out. you can see 2 bottom nuts which needs removing but hold on. now see the location on tensioner in your diagram for your car next to your radiators. put the long wrench on the tensioner and push it back towards the dash. then belt will loosen and you can take the belt off alternator. now you can secure the wrench in same place by resting it on another wrench or bat in horizontal position by creating T like structure. (this saved me hassle of re doing the whole belt.) Remove the 13 mm bolt connecting battery to alternator Remove the Clip connection once belt if off unbolt the top plate by removing 3 bolts. once the top plate is off remove bottom 2 long bolts. now use a pry bar or hammer with pry ending to wiggle alternator out. Follow the reverse process to fit the new one.

Hey guys my alternator seems to have problem. giving 11.9 v wit engine on. I have ordered a spare one. I was thinking to attempt myself. is there a video guide or instruction manual available ? All I could find on you-tube was for 3.3 or 3.8 engine where the alternator is near the drive wheel. but in my car its next to engine on the top.(image attached). I could not find any info for that.

Wow bignev you must be handy with tools. I have been surfing through youtube to gather courage to do it myself. All the videos are of 3.3 ltr where the driver side wheel need to come off for alternator removal but when i looked my car 2.8 crd ,alternator is next to the engine on top. So that's relif. Did you follow any instructions or video. Any tips on how to get the belt off and on?

Thanks for the pointers mikebh8. I checked the voltage at alternator nut and its showing 11.9 v which is consistent with what was showing at the battery terminals with car on. When i switched off the car. It was showing 12.2 at nut and at the battery terminals. This also explains why the button mod did not work. Does this proof enough to order an alternator or is there a chance it could be ecu. the garage is asking for 450 for alternator if they order it. I can get it for less than 100 online.

So called the mechanic and he said its not alternator (as per his OBD diagnostic tool its pumping over 14V but when I used the multi-meter on battery terminal it was showing 11.9 with engine on). he asked me to the replace the battery so I called Motarland (they are Chrysler expert) and bought exide eb741 for 95 gbp. I put the new battery car started fine first time and few times afterwords. and i drove for 50 miles and then same battery /ABS light came on and car won't start again with new battery. and once is recharged the battery i can again drive for 50 miles before symptoms starts again.. so after reading about buttonmod in increse the charging temp. I did mod yesterday. also charged the new battery so it was giving 13v without engine on. when I started the engine with Buttonmod it dropped to 12.7 and stayed at that even when I drove around. I am kind of sure now that battery is being undercharged and Buttonmod does not work for some reason. here is exact step i took for buttonmod. bought 22K resister from maplin. found the batter temp sensor wire between blue and brown, i cut the brown one. added the resister each end to each end of cut wire. (see image) taped it back. am I doing anything wrong? is there a way to check resister if I got the correct one.

If you have below setup then you have multi...