kelvin

Hi guys. A cautionary tale that I hope will be of use. In a nutshell we discovered that our mechanic and very likely he had followed what previously had been done, had fitted the pad retaining spring ends in the wrong place. This resulted in the whole caliper feeling loose/floating about and wearing the pads at an angle overheating and cracking a piston. Very useful photos came up on google in next to no time. Cheers.

Hi again. I think I've worked this out. I reckon my mechanic has been wasting my time. He definitely told me "gearbox temperature sensor". I wrote it down in front of him but I suspect it actually read or meant engine temperature sensor, which is why replacing it is "lol". Thanks to anyone who was thinking of helping. I will get back to mechanic clarify the diagnostic readout probably replace engine temp. sensor anyway & go from there.

Hi Nelix. I just stumbled across this thread although I have a 2004 model with auto box problems. Diagnostic is coming up with "auto box temperature sensor". You say you changed it on your friends vehicle but "it wouldn't be that lol". Please, please can you or somebody elaborate? I am being told there is no such thing.

Job done. Thanks guys. Worthwhile routine maintenance but frankly not looking mucky at all. The engine cooler rad and the auto box rad are separate entities so unless I'm missing something this shouldn't help with gear change problem. Nevertheless routine maintenance. All good Still waiting to hear from my mechanic re "gearbox temperature sensor" code but he suggested phoning his Chrysler parts dealer to buy a "autobox temp sensor". In essence they said no such thing as a "gearbox temperature sensor". Suggested I play parts darts with them. Start with 2 sensors input and output £50, then if that doesn't work try a new shift solenoid for £200. £££ ..Kerrrchiiiinnng. I declined their offer. If the auto box rad is not getting warm even on a longish trip as I have noticed then as has been suggested here maybe it's a blockage. If we do another auto box oil change is there a method to flush or purge the auto box system? Any thoughts would be welcome.

Thank you both for the input(s). Have externally pressure washed the rad down today. Worth inspecting/washing but frankly not that bad.Well worth a stab though. Thanks again. Am going on a long trip tomorrow, well about 2 hours, so I expect it to misbehave. My new helpful mechanic will check to see if the "temperature sensor" code comes back next week as it's in for its mot anyway. Thanks QuinteQ. I have only recently sussed your input on a previous/old autobox problem enquiry on this site. Very comprehensive and nice cross references. Thanks. Had auto fluid replaced as soon as I got the vehicle but didn't do it/oversee it myself. Might need to do this myself as you are alluding to. I get most of it but please can I ask "fan full belt and hose pipe at the same rate IN did the job". What do you mean by "fan full belt" and are you saying you flushed the rad with tap water? Many, many thanks if you can reply. I like this car it does what I want locally but it's longer term future is in doubt if I can't get this auto box problem sorted. Cheers.

Wow. Many thanks BumBle. That's a good suggestion. I shall try it. I am trying the relatively simple/inexpensive ones first. Took the TCM off. Inspected it, cleaned it, replaced it. No difference. Many thanks. Cheers

Hi Andy All seems pretty good as per above suggestions. I would like to add, personally, I would avoid the rattle spray cans and go for Hammerite Smooth, or similar, paint on with a brush. My thinking is this: You can get a thicker coat on (So it should offer better protection) Down there on a cill and with the colour black you can "get away with it a bit" It's not like hand painting the bonnet. Re Hammerite either buy the special thinners to clean the brush or option 2 buy cheap brush and discard. .If things are the same as years ago DON'T do a second coat . Hammerite reacts badly to this. Cheers

Hi guys. Sorry for the delay. Don't often go for a long run but also life takes over doesn't it. I have checked the relevant radiator as suggested on long runs and it barely warms up at all. Also possibly a breakthrough today. While taking the car for a pre mot check to a new mechanic I mentioned my auto box symptoms and he was happy to do a quick diagnostic, (Previous mechanics have fobbed me off with "You need an auto box specialist mate".) Anyway the result was " auto box temperature sensor" or wording very similar - Sorry it was a very quick check and busy with the mot list. He deleted it to see if it comes up on my next long run. Which is next week. My question is where is the auto box temperature sensor please?. I have trawled the internet and this site with no specific result. Any input would be welcome. Many thanks Kelvin

Hi both. First off nice one Andy, thanks, good tip.Yes the ATF cooler seems to be the middle 1 of 3 and I have gained enough access by simply removing the front chrome grill. I can, in future, keep a CAREFUL eye or hand on things. It's unlikely that I will be going on a long run for maybe 2 months or so but I will report back. You use the word "sludged". Yes interesting thought. I think this is what you are alluding to bignev. In answer to your question: I have only had the car a few months and a previous owner could easily have put the incorrect fluid in...... For anyone who might be following this thread in the future Interesting article here about "Why Chrysler Transmissions Fail" jerickweb.50webs/autobin/Chrysler_Trans_Tip Thanks again to you both.

Hi bignev. Thanks for the input. Old fluid wasn't mucky at all and didn't smell burnt. I get what your saying about a change being a long way from a full change but I reckon that fluid hadn't been in there long. Might revisit your suggestion though. I agree it could well be a fluid temperature problem. The engine temp rarely gets near half but auto fluid might well be a different matter. I have seen mention of a temperature sensor on this forum that seems to feed info to the TCM. Anyone know anything about this please? I have also seen an earth mount on the gearbox mentioned. Anyone know where this is please? Lastly, what's the model/code for the auto box? (41TES?). My apologies guys if I seem like I'm hassling but any info/input would be very welcome

Hi there. I'm still having problems with gear changes on my Chrysler Grand Voyager 2003, diesel, 94k. For about the 1st hour it changes gear as sweet as can be, then it's like someone has flicked a switch. It starts revving really hard and is unwilling to change up. Likewise it's keen to change down unnecessarily. If I give the car a rest for about 30 mins all is fine again. I have now done auto filter and oil change using recommended oil. Any ideas anyone please?

Thanks for the input guys. Just to clarify, I meant that even when I backed off the throttle it still wouldn't change up into top..Anyway auto box oil change definitely the way forward. Regarding recommended oils, in the 1970's people started putting the new multigrade oils in the old British motorbikes instead of the recommended monogrades. The problem was the new multigrades had detergents in them which washed out the crank sludge traps. Result.....bang. Thanks again. I hope to be indulging in some trouble free motoring soon.

Thanks very much guys for the feedback. Was backing off on the throttle to encourage a change up + I'm rarely heavy on any throttles but thanks for the suggestion.On the 2nd half of that 2 hour journey though it wasn't changing up to top on the flat until about 60mph. Re oil: Yes thanks I've read various threads here that warn about incorrect oil. Message received loud and clear. Can anyone recommend a supplier on the internet for ATF please. I live out in the sticks. Regarding filters and spares generally. has anyone else read that the Range Rover and the Vauxhall Frontera used the 2.8 CRD motor? (Parts interchangeable and less expensive?) Cheers

Hi. Newbie here. Advice/opinions would be welcome. Just bought a 2003 grand voyager, 92k. Seems very good for the year. Went well on the test drive and revved and changed gear as I would expect a 2.8 diesel to do, usually at about 2k revs.( Hills were encountered on the test drive.) Drove it home. First hour went really well. Second hour- after going up one steep hill, it just seemed to change mode. After that even when driving on the flat it would then only change into top gear until afteer 60mph! It revved to about 3k to 4k before changing up. It has no service history so timing belt and oil changes being done next week and I'm not using it until after that. (Oil on gearbox dipstick looked and smelt healthy.) Are these higher sort of revs normal? Surely not 'cos in the first hour it behaved really sweet. Or have I just got captain paranoia sitting on my shoulder?