Eightpint

Hi, I have also recently changed the oil and filter and gasket on this car with no issues, I also brought the long dipstick for this car, But can you tell me where the oil is supposed to be on the dipstick, On one side of the dipstick is has two sections noting the temp , one for 25 temp and the other for 80 temp, on the other side increments upto 11. So I checked my oil with engine on idle and not warmed up, so the oil fell in the range of the 25 degrees markers with seems right to me, so assume when engine is hot it would fall into the 80 degree markers.. Just found the instructions that came with the dipstick and that says to use the increments as a guide, Basically I'm asking which side of the stick did you use as a guide Cheers

Hi Recently brought a new startech grille, haven't fitted it yet as I can't seem to find a new grille badge for it as they are a different size from the standard grille/badge... Anybody got any ideas where I can purchase a new badge Cheers Windy

Some great ideas on here, you with the spray and another with shoe polish, I ain't good with a rattle can though...

Hi, I got the vinyl off Ebay, mentioned earlier on in this thread.

Just an update, the bit of wrapping I did 2+ years ago still looks like new even after multiple washing.. best £20 I spent

Well, I bottled out of any more soldering as its costed me two boards already. I thought about sending my controls upto the 300c custom shop who do a refurb for a decent price. But I came across a brand new heater control unit on an auction site which was cheaper than a second hand unit! Issue I had with it, it was from China and it was cheaper than a 2nd hand unit. In the end I chanced it and it arrived and I fitted it to the car and now all the lights work and the air direction goes to the area of the car I want it to......happy days

All, I have an issue that when I enter/leave the car from the drivers door the courtesy light is not activated, doesnt come on from the overhead console or door itself. It's not the bulbs as the lights work when unlocking the car... I have swapped the door module but that made no difference.... Any ideas please

Hi, your car is not Bright Silver Metallic WS2/PS2 as that's my colour and its alot brighter than yours, If it's not the Silver Steel DA4/PA4 then I would suggest the Steel Blue Metallic DBM/PBM, as from pictures it looks grey, Best bet is to take your car or petrol flap (if car not on road) to a car paint specialist/supplier who will match the colour and give you the exact colour you need, that's what I did

Haven't got round to it yet, but it's on my to do list in the next couple of weeks.

Your recirculation button will flash 3 times then go off, it will not work on 2 positions on the air directional dial, that's the screen defrosting and screen/floor direction, this is to stop misting up your screen from the inside of the car.

I thought my soldering was neat, but somewhere on that board I messed up, so off to scrappy to buy another, I will let u know how it goes.

Hi, My original heater panel worked as it should but had failed lights, so I brought a replacement set of bulbs and attempted my first soldering session, thought I did ok but when fitted it I lost all lights to heater panel plus others!! Went to my local chrysler scrappy and brought a s/hand unit, again one bulb had failed, so I replaced the failed bulb and now all the back lights work, but my heating has gone haywire!!! So as you say I probably fried the board, I was hoping it might be something else, Hopefully third time lucky,

Hi, Recently my heater temp dial has gone haywire, in otherwords if I turn the dial to the warmest I get cold air,if I turn the dial down to the coldest position I'm getting warm air, Also the dial you use to direct air to certain areas like the windscreen, face or the floor etc has gone haywire, to get air to windscreen I now have to turn dial on to the floor!! All this has happened since I replaced the back lights on the heater control panel, I have reopened the heater control panel again and you can't fit the circuit board in backwards, all I can think of is when soldering the new bulbs on the circuit board in the heater control panel somehow I've done some other damage... If anyone knows of another reason why this is happening please type

Sorted, I checked the circuit board inside the heater control panel and it was damaged, sourced a second hand unit and hey presto all the lights gave come back on,

Hi, The other day all the interior back lights failed to the analogue clock, the heater control panel and to the gearbox selector, they were all working the day before so assuming a fuse or module has failed, does anyone know where I should be looking as I can't seem to find the appropriate fuse that relates to these items, cheers Windy.

Hi, they are all over ebay

hi, you can still buy the tone rings separately for the AWD models, they take a little longer to fit but can be done even with the driveshaft still on the car,

Hi, the two bottom codes will be to do with the relucter rings on the wheels, or the actual cable/sensor wire damaged to the wheels A common problem with these cars is that the magnetic rings rust on the wheel bearings so the sensor can't read the speed from that wheel, this in turn puts the car in limp mode. You can buy the rings and sensors separately but might be a better idea to change the bearing at the same time, but before you do any of that check the sensor cables from the wheel to see if they're damaged.

Hi, the paint code will be located on the underside of the drivers door, look where it says PNT and it will have the paint code. Failing that take your car to a car paint supplier and they can get an exact colour match and make you a can up, if the cars not driveable take the fuel filler cap to the shop and they will get a match off that

Hi, you can buy the tone rings separately to go on the front wheel bearings, but if I was you I would replace the whole bearing as normally the ring and bearing will be rusted together so buy the whole unit

Sorted, lifted the bonnet and found the serpentine belts in pieces, brought a new one and had fun fitting it round eight pullies. No skin on knuckles left but car back on road

Hi, as from past experience, there is a HID module situated in the engine bay on the left hand side next to the wash bottle, if you pull the plug out all the problems will go away, I had this same problem with radio going on off , mirrors dropping and wipers coming on, unplugged it and problem went away

On the way back home last night, the battery light came on the dash, I lost power steering but the car was still driveable so I carried on driving home, what would you think is the first port of call, I’m thinking the alternator, but dont understand the power loss to the steering, any advise welcome

Hi, Have you tried fastening the seatbelt first before turning on the ignition, hope your not a baggie fan lol Sean

Hi, firstly get into car and turn ignition on, you will get 5 to 6 beeps, I think this is a pre warning that your belt isn’t fastened, when you start driving without belt on then you get the intermittent bong bong.....try getting into car and fastening your seatbelt first before you put key in ignition, you shouldn’t get any beeps, so I buckle up before I start ignition and it goes away every time, cheers Sean