Expoman

Replacing the fuel filter housing worked for me. It was cracked and the o ring inside was distorted. Previously, my mechanic had gone down the injector route with no success. Had 000"s of miles of happy motoring after the replacement earlier this year, not a single reoccurrence of the problem.

The Fuel Filter housing was the issue with mine, every since I replaced it, the car has run perfectly. Garages are drawn to injectors for this symptom set, I had mine replaced and it was nothing to do with them, I solved the problem with research online including this forum, not OBD codes. Good luck.

Same here, replaced Fuel Filter and housing, all is well.

Delighted to say that mine is now running well, starts first time both cold and hot so the filter housing and filter change fixed the problem for me. I've done about 700 miles and a good few runs, short and long, with no problems at all. frogland, When the housing was off and the filter removed, I could see some distortion of the membrane and some fine cracks. Re NRV, I don't know, AndyB2000 would have a better idea on that.

Hi, I'm also in the south of France, just behind Cannes. I just changed the fuel filter and the fuel filter housing and so far so good. The old fuel filter housing had a membrane inside it that was damaged and we think that it was allowing air into the system.

Well.the omens are good. Started first turn of the key last evening when I collected her from the garage and, even more significantly, first turn this morning even though it is cold outside (well, as cold as it gets here!). I took her straight to "Cut Out" roundabout and no problems whatsoever and she seemed to running more smoothly and evenly but, of course, we have to allow here for auto-sugguestion on my part! So, cautious optimism, I'll take her for another run later on and I'll keep you all informed.

Andy, so far I have changed the Mass Air Filter (that made a difference, the car was immediately running smoother with better power delivery) - that was last May time followed by the injectors around October last year after the cutting out started so today she is in for the fuel filter plus housing and loom plus replacement of the lift pump filter and check of the housing so it's everything crossed. Between us, we'll soon have replaced everything! I find it very interesting that out of say 12 cutouts, 5 have been on the exact same piece of road - an incline after a roundabout, car coasting, with my having lifted from the throttle going around the roundabout (which is downhill) then accelerating. The car never, ever, stalls when idling even when revved hard and there is no other discernible pattern to the circumstances surrounding the cutouts but to me they definitely seem fuel related but what do I know!!! You can bet your life that I'll be back to that roundabout when I get the car back, fortunately it is 1 minute from my mechanic's workshop! I'll get back when I have some news.

Hi Andy, Going in this Thursday for replacement of the Fuel Filter, Housing and the wiring. He'll also replace the Lift Pump filter and check the housing for cracks, etc. I had about 5 drives of the car with no failure then took it out about 10 days ago and it cut out 5 times, oddly three times in exactly the same location, a slight incline coming off a roundabout. It was a warmer day, 14C plus sun so wondering if this is playing a role? Anyway, we'll see later this week. I had my injectors replaced already, didn't help. Fingers crossed!

Well, my filter and housing arrived today, so I'll get it fitted. I've used the car a further 5 times now and it hasn't cut out once!

Funny, I had that the other day as I wrote above, will take mine out again today. The dreaded intermittent fault, the mechanics nightmare! One possible explanation for the problem I have seen on the web is the fuel filter housing 'o'ring cracking and allowing air into the system so it could be that in your case, the reseating has improved the sealing? I am very persuaded by Keith's explanation as to why we have have to switch off the ignition completely added to the fault code of loss of pressure in the fuel system. What puzzles me is that I can rev the you know what's out of the engine in P or N and it never falters - why should this be? My new parts have not arrived yet, hoping that they will today so expect to have them fitted and the car checked out by a diesel specialist within the next 7 to 10 days. Fingers crossed that we are close to solving this problem........

Keith, I will have that looked at by the diesel specialists I have found. I was wondering what the significance of having to turn off the ignition fully and restart using the full sequence might be - your conclusion is that by restarting the sequence, the LP activates and removes the air so the fuel gets through and the engine starts whereas just by turning the engine over without returning the ignition to zero, it doesn't? Very many thanks, Best, S

Andy, So here's the latest. Warmed her up then drove her down the second part of my drive where there is a turning area then back up what is a very steep incline. About 2000 rpm no probs then slowed her right down to idle speeds as I rolled to the gate and she cut out! (Engine had been warmed up, so no problem there). I turned off the ignition and she restarted first time. I took her out for a drive, first letting her roll downhill on 1000 to 1500 rpm then once on the flat, I gave her a boot full several times, 3000 rpm and a bit over (wheel blocks part of the rev counter so couldn't see exactly what she topped out at) with absolutely no problems. Drove her home up the steep hill ; l gave her a boot full several times, 2500 to 3000 rpm, and she never missed a beat! It's interesting that my only cut out was after coming up a very steep incline slowly - fuel starvation? Really frustrating, as during the test drive I used a variety of driving styles yet couldn't induce the fault, in fact the engine pulled beautifully and ran evenly. My local guy thought injectors but all have been replaced with recon items and the problem persists. On the plus side, I have found a diesel specialist locally that I will be contacting to make an appointment once my fuel filter and housing has arrived (not just the filter as I read online in a couple of places that the housing itself can also be the problem, fine cracks allowing air into the system). Is the fact that it is necessary to turn off the ignition completely to restart after significant? As you say, the likelihood is the lift pump needs to reprime the system so does this indicate air in the fuel system? Yes, it's a long way for a cuppa but maybe we can have a glass of Champagne on the day we finally solve the problem! Likewise, I'll keep posting.

Andy, I've been unable to connect to the site for a couple of days hence delay in responding. That's very interesting news. I'll take mine out this afternoon and try to duplicate all that you have done and we'll see what happens. I didn't make it clear that I'm replacing the filter and filter assy rather than the pump itself, hopefully we can avoid that expense! Mine is auto but I'll try revving in Park and see what I get. My thoughts on the solenoid were simply that I couldn't see why the solenoid would only malfunction under load, maybe rubbish but anyway you seem to have eliminated that particular code with your clever test. Mine is the same after stalling. I have to completely switch off before getting it to start, if I don't, she just turns and turns without a hint of firing (hence my initial thoughts about immobiliser cut off, which I've now moved away from). Yes, I think your assumption is reasonable, when I think about it, mine has always cut out under strong acceleration and you're right, the main condition in that state is increased fuel demand. Possibly with some air in the fuel lines, the engine manages with the reduced flow at lower revs but the moment the revs need to increase, it can't hold on? I'm going to ask around here (I'm in the south of France - yes, alright for some!) and see if I can find a diesel specialist, I suspect that could be the way to go for me as I lack your hands on skills! Mike - thanks for that, I'll try and get it checked out, just don't understand why it would occur just under acceleration over 2,500 rpm? Overall, I think we are on the right lines, I think it is fuel starvation and I haven't always had the problem with the car so it is a condition that has developed, it's not inherently faulty - anyway, that thought keeps me going! I'll report back later! All best, S

Andy, Many thanks for your extremely helpful and informative response. I took her out this morning to check for sure if the oil light, etc., come on or not when the power cuts and would you believe it, for the very first time since the problem started, she ran faultlessly! Perhaps it's because I drove very smoothly and quite slowly without any hard acceleration? I'll take her out again later and have another try. No, I don't have a red indicator on top of the steering column but I've just noticed an unidentified rocker switch on the RHS of the column and just seen the traction control switch for the first time (it's notionally my wife's vehicle, I've only really started driving it since the problem started....). I tried the 3 times ignition on "key dance" and got P1130 fault code in the odometer window which seems to confirm that the problem is fuel pressure - possible faults under that code in Chrysler documentation are: P1130-FUEL RAIL PRESSURE MALFUNCTION LEAKAGE DETECTED. P1130-FUEL RAIL PRESSURE MALFUNCTION PRESSURE TOO HIGH-SHUT OFF P1130-FUEL RAIL PRESSURE MALFUNCTION PRESSURE TOO LOW P1130-FUEL RAIL PRESSURE MALFUNCTION SOLENOID OPEN Also, it took 6 long seperate turnovers to cold start this morning but once warmed up it starts first turn of the key - faulty glow plugs maybe a red herring here? You are clearly much more knowledgeable, (my car mechanics experience goes back to when "God was a boy" and I worked in a garage on Saturdays and school hols then repaired my first car for reasons of poverty rather than love of car repairs!) but I find it odd that the cut out always occurs under load, never when the car is idling even when revved - this seems to rule out the Fuel Pump - SOLENOID (mentioned above in the fault codes). Your fuel lines do look very pristine, maybe a previous owner was having this problem and they got replaces as part of the hunt for the fault? Crank Position Sensor sounds a possibility - maybe that would explain why mine always restarts easily after the cutout? Maybe I'm grasping at straws...... I replaced the Mass Air Filter after getting a P100 code some months back and it seemed to solve that particular problem (running rough, loss of power) so maybe it's all inter-related? Anyway, my new filter and filter housing for the HP Pump will be here in a few days ditto your crank sensor so we'll see where that gets us! LOL Thanks for your help once again, Best, S

Andy, I'm also experiencing the engine cutout problem on my 2007 GV 2.8 CRD. New injectors recently fitted, problem persists. My current suspicion was that the immobiliser could be causing the problem as after the engine has cutout and the car stopped, I cannot restart however remove the key, lock the car, unlock then turn it over, it starts first time, every time. Research on the web indicates that a alternative could be in the area of the fuel filter or the electrics on the fuel filter cap and this seems to be where you are heading. Please keep us informed! Merry Xmas, Steven

Hi, New member. I just test drove a Voyager today and whilst overall it felt good, there was a vibration through the steering wheel at idle that disappeared once higher revs came in when driving. I suspected a fault power steering pump - any views would be gratefully received? Best, Steven