iratecabbie

Hi leslie. Turbo underboost is almost always caused by a split turbo pipe, usually the top one. I have had to replace two on my own little fleet of sebrings, Luckily the top pipes are readily available from any fiat/Chrysler dealer and usually cost about £78. The bottom pipe is a much more involved and expensive repair costing about £180. Luckily the bottom pipes don't go often, and the only I ever had to replace was due to a garage that while making a general pigs ear of changing a cambelt also left out the bolt that hold the lower pipe in place, allowing it to flex until it split. I hope this helps.

Common faults I have found in the four sebrings my father and I run as cabs. ​1. Sticky brake calipers. The caliper pins are prone to corrosion and will jam inside the calipers. This makes the caliper work incorrectly and you will only wear one pad out on each caliper affected rather than evenly wearing the pair, also they will be a real bugger to get off. ​ ​How to fix. Remove the caliper pin, If corroded rub down or replace, and before re-assembly use copper grease on the pin---making sure none goes near the pads or disk! 2. Dash lights failing. ​How to fix. I have had this in 2 of the four sebrings we run and it can be a very expensive fix if your auto sparky doesn't know sebrings. The problem is caused by a failed inverter that is connected to the dash display unit. once the dash display is taken out, its a simple job to remove the inverter and replace it with a stock one that can be easily bought from most electrical part stores. This vid shows how to do the repair. https://youtu.be/x8cbH26D9p4 ​3. Airbag lights. 2 of our four have had the dash lights come on and stay stuck on. ​ How to fix. Not fixed them yet, but its probably a dirty slipring/clockspring in the steering column. 4. Tyre Valves breaking. This is a problem every sebring gets nd it is entirely due to them using aluminium to make the tyre valves and it is a costly and annoying problem. ​ how to fix. if you want to keep your TPM (tyre pressure monitors) working you have no option but to buy replacement Chrysler sebring valves, you can alleviate the corrosion with lube, but I found this only partially effective. Alternatively as they fail just replace them with standard valves and accept that you will lose tpm on that wheel. ​5. Oil pump failure. A problem common to all vehicles that use the Volkswagen 2.0 CRD engine. it is caused by a design flaw in the oil pump balance shaft where two hexagonal shafts that drive it wear smooth and eventually stop driving the pump. First indication you will get of this failure is your oil light coming on. When this happens, STOP driving straight away and dip the oil levels, if it isn't low, then odds on its your oil pump balance shafts, don't drive it till fixed. if you continue to drive the vehicle, you will eventually go into limp mode, (revs limited) and then your brake pedal will go hard. at this point your turbo will begin to ake a lot of noise--as it runs without lube, leading very quickly to it being damaged. eventually your big ends will fail and the engine will seize up, so you see why it is important to stop as soonb as you see the oil light come on. ​How to fix. Basically you need to replace the failed oil pump balance shaft unit. As this engine is shared by a lot of vehicles its easy to find a replacement. There are several firms out there offering replacement and upgrade services for this part- just do a search for them on google. it should cost about £200​ Fitting is simple enough, though unless your a confident mechanic, id advise taking it to a garage. (if the turbo is noisy after the oil pumps repaired, then you have killed your turbo) Do a search on youtube using the following term "Volkswagen and Audi TDI oil pump balance shaft" ​6 Cruise control, It never bloody works!!! 3 out of the 4 we have don't have working cruise control. ​7. rear inner wings come undone,, how to fix, Either replace the plastic studs that hold them in, or apply some glue to them. ​8. Turbo pipes splitting, 2 of our four have had turbo pipes split, a costly and annoying failure. Usually it is the top one that goes and these can be sourced for about £70, if however the bottom one goes (as did one of mine after a pillock left it unbolted after changing my cambelt) it will cost you about £170. signs that a turbo pipe has a hole will be lots of smoke when you rev, and the car going into limp mode.. in an extreme case you will hear air rushing when you accelerate. I cant think of any more right now, though as I still have three on the road I am certain I will add to this at some point. but while this list is long, its actually not bad considering that my cars all do about 50 000 miles a year. overall I rate the sebring very highly indeed.

Check your tyres for lumps, it sounds to me like your tyres developed a carbuncle, this is very dangerous as it is a weak spot in the trye and can lead to a blow out.

Good news Debbie and Dee, I know exactly whats gone wrong with your car as my own one did exactly the same in november. ​ What has happened is that your "oil pump balance shaft" has worn out. This is a common and well known problem on the Volkswagen common rail diesel engine and the good news is that there is a readily available upgrade available for it. ​ The bad news is that you may have killed your turbo and if your really really unlucky, your big ends too. ​Do a search on youtube for the following vid, "VW and Audi TDI oil pump failure and balnce shaft faq" this vid explains a lot on how to fix this issue. To get to the oil pump balance shaft, you need to do the following steps. ​ 1. drain the oil, then remove the sump pan. this should leave the bottom of your engine exposed. ​ the oil pump balance shaft is bolted directly to the bottom of your engine and should be covering three of your four big ends. ​ 2. Unbolt the oil pump balance shaft assembly, (you will need torx heads to do this) once the assembly is unbolted you can then examine your big ends and check them thoroughly for damage. ​ 3. exchange the damaged part with a specialist in "Volkswagen oil pump balance shaft repairs" a quick search on the net should put you on the right track to some, failing that pm me and I will give you details of one I know. ​4. When your new one has arrived, its a simple job to just bolt it back on the the bottom of your engine, The chap I used for my replacement will offer to sell you a simple tool to set the timing of the oil pump---DO buy it. Once its fitted and your happy with it, remount the sump- and re oil the car. ​5. As your engine has had low oil pressure its very important that you pre-lubricate your turbo before starting it. once this is done, and the engines oiled, start it and let it run for a few minutes. If the turbo is ok it will not make any noise, if however after a minute or so its still noisy, its odds on the turbo is dead and will need to be fixed. ​ 6. if your car is fixed and your happy, Have a beer and toast my health! ​

Hi everyone, I have a 2008 Chrysler sebring 2.0 petrol which has developed a bit of a judder. This judder usually comes on when accelerating in low gear or when reversing (especially uphill) my gut feeling is that it is something to do with the clutch, possibly the fluid flywheel, but if anyone has any ideas on what this is I would be interested in hearing your opinions, Also while looking at this problem I have found that you cant seem to get a 2.0 petrol clutch anywhere,, would i be right in thinking that its the same clutch as is used in the 2.4?

Hello Everyone, I'm Mitch, aka Iratecabbie. I currently own two Chrysler sebrings, (2.0crd and and 2.0 petrol,) both 2008 models and my dad also owns a sebring crd. pWe run them as taxis. I am primarily on here to discuss maintenance issues and also to source parts when I can. Having driven several hundred thousand miles in these cars I'm fairly up on most of their foibles, but you can never know too much. ;-)