ametcalfe1989

Thank you

I haven't done this as yet but have bought everything to do it except for something to stop the coolant leaking. What was the orange thing Andy used in the video? He said something about caravaners using it. Or did you guys just empty the coolant first and refill?

So it turned out to be a bit of the insulation had come away from the driver side loom and the wiring had corroded. Which had in turn, blown both bulbs so I cut back the dodgy wire to before the corrosion, rewired it and changed the bulbs. Now we have light!!!!

Unfortunately I don't have an answer to this but I would be interested too because I bought my voyager for a good price but with a dented wing panel that needs replacing as the damaged area is beginning to rust in this God awful recent weather

Haha I've heard Renaults are a nightmare to do the usually simplest tasks! On my Rover 75, I had both lights go within an hour of each other but never ever have I had both lights go out at exactly the same time which is really quite worrying I've read that it can be a communication issue with the FCM but I've also read that if it was a problem with the FCM then the windscreen washers wouldn't work (weirldy) but everything else, including the windscreen washers, on the car is absolutely fine... *frantically touches wood*.

Cheers for the advice, mate "Borrowed" a socket and wrench set from work for a job I've gotta do around the house this weekend so I'm all tooled up! Does the assembly slide out towards the front? It appears that way to me from a quick glance Yeah high beam, fogs and side lights all working. It's truly baffling, I really hope it's just the bulbs and not the FCM

Unfortunately I didn't have time to get around to it because typically as soon as I got to the car parts store, I got a phone call from the school saying my son had nose dived in to the play ground floor... However, I did notice that the clamp on the negative wire that connects to the battery is really bent and not connected properly so my guess is (I may be completely and utterly wrong) that the negative has come loose causing the battery to be disconnected briefly then reconnecting while in motion causing a voltage surge which took out the headlights but as you may tell I'm no mechanic or auto electrician! I am going to give it a go tomorrow afternoon (hopefully it won't be raining!) And let you all know

Tried that at the time, no avail Swapped the relays and the fuses around with something I knew worked and of the same amperage I looked today at the looms and can't see any wiring loose or earthing I'm off to pick up the bulbs now so should know whether the bulbs just did the unlikely and both went at the same time in about an hour

Hi all, I've got a 2.5crd and the headlamps (both at the same time) stopped working. Fogs are fine and sidelights are fine. It was too dark to check the bulbs but I'm thinking it's pretty rare for both to go at the same time. I've pulled the battery completely overnight, I'm hoping that will work but I was just wondering if anybody has had the same issue and has any advice? Thanks in advance

when I was looking at reviews prior to buying mine, they all said the 2.5 was sluggish and to go for the 2.8 But mine pulls better than my v6 rover 75 did!

Yeah you can, you can get them for under £10 on fleabay

I've searched every term possible for a possible battery fix but can't find one on this forum. Perhaps it was the .com version of the forum?

I haven't heard of the battery fix mod, what's that mate? I'll try to source the video but it's hard when I don't know what it's supposed to fix with the battery

Thank you, mate. I'll have a proper look this weekend. Not particularly low temperatures, between 0 and -5 this week

Found the link if anybody else is going to try this mod: http://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/chrysler-voyager-town-country-21/fitting-second-thermostat-guide-26641/

I find if I run the glow plugs twice before starting, it's a lot faster to start

Mine is the same and kicks out a crud load of exhaust but runs fine after I've checked all of the above but still no joy. It starts on the first key turn though so I'm not too fussed at the moment

It's fantastic! I've got the bits and bobs but I've lost the andyb2000 how-to video, does anybody have a link?

Thank you I wish I had time for that! Might have to be a body shop jobby

I'm doing the same this week! Looking forward to no more frostbitten fingers!

Hi guys, General car enquiry really, anybody know the best way to remove rust from a car? I have a rust patch just underneath the rear window and although it wasn't a problem for a while, it has now started to spread Thanks

Some voyagers of this age were a recall for this issue Had mine done free at the local Arnold Clarke a few weeks ago Check if your car is a recall by entering the VIN in to the Mopar recalls website. I'll try to find the link but if you just Google, 'chrysler voyager recall'. It should come up Or phone your local chrysler approved garage, the service dept should be able to see if you qualify for a recall repair using just your reg no

I had this problem but you already tried the fix I was going to suggest. I swapped the relay and everything was fine. BUT It started happening a few weeks later and found out that the negative connector to the battery had become corroded, got a new g clamp for the cable and it fixed it! I was only doing it because the engine would cut out after going over a speed bump, didn't mean to fix the fuel pump lift. Maybe it was a red herring but it's worked *touches wood*. Maybe have a look at your battery connections?

Is this the one? http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/301545745597?fits=Car+Make%3ARenault

I'm unsure about the battery because I only bought the car recently but it is always worth getting a new one. Thanks, I'll give it a try