soupstone

What voltage do you have over the battery +ve and -ve with the engine running, and does it hold steady when you switch on in-car equipment?

I'd start by giving all the sensors a good wash and inspect for damage. I've read in the past the sensors give off a humming sound or you can feel a slight vibration from them. Get someone to sit inside, with the handbrake on and the foot brake held firmly, and get them to put it into reverse. Listen to, then touch each sensor, and see if any one is different from the rest. If that's not conclusive, time to go underneath and inspect the wiring/connections, and, if you have a multimeter, perhaps test the sensors. I'm not sure how accessible they are though. I'd think Youtube will have a video on testing them, just do a search for "reverse sensor testing", the method will likely be the same.

Just throwing ideas out there, just incase. Injectors? Richer mix fed in when cold, still hard to start, but starts and seems fine. Gets leaner when warm, giving you the cutting out? Only briefly flirted with the idea of lpg years ago, thinking it's delivered differently to the engine than through the injectors?

If you need the injectors out, and they can't shift them, I've got a genuine miller tools puller here I could post at cost. With any luck, if the belt's only jumped, it won't have caused the internal damage you get with a snapped belt, although I had a look after your initial thread and costs are down from when I had to do my last GV.

EGR? I'd probably start with that purely for the cutting out at roundabouts and traffic lights. Don't know how accessible it is on the petrols, but I'd try giving it a good clean first and see if it helps.

You have a fault with the reversing sensor system, or "Park Assist" Just went out to confirm, I had the same warning, as the in car display had been knocked off. I've just reattached it and the warnings gone. So you just need to find out whats broke, and fix it.

I blanked off the father in laws Mondeo, the hole fools it into thinking it's still working, so doesn't throw up the engine management light.

Was looking at Grand Voyagers earlier on ebay. Done it price low to high and there were about 10 different ones being broken for spares. Might be worth a few emails.

Another possibility is a leaking injector. Take the cover off the engine and see if there's a load of black gunk around any of them. Also see if there's any dampness around the injectors, as a leaking return pipe might cause it too.

You can get enough bolts off the cover to pull it back a bit to confirm whether or not the belt has snapped. It was over 6 years ago now, but I was £635 for the parts, and a guy I know took £240 for the labour. I also had to get an injector puller from America and a locking tool which added another £365 to my costs. If it's going to Chrysler, they should have them, but I doubt their labour charge will be £240. Here's my original thread, Booke23 and Merlin were spot on, and it was 8 tappets that needed replacing. http://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/chrysler-voyager-town-country-21/2-5-crd-timing-belt-loads-damage-10979/

Having had a puncture on mines recently, yes, it was very tricky to get the spare out. Its getting enough slack on the cable, and the right angle, with a little brute force and ignorance.

Yes, they should be connected to each other.

What a coincidence. My ABS light came on about a week ago, went out again and came on again a couple of days ago. Today, I got a grumbling noise that appeared to come from below the passenger floor at the front when I braked. Similar to what I've heard when ABS has activated on previous cars but quieter, possibly due to light braking. I've no noise when running (jumped in the FILs Mondeo last week to listen to a noise that was confirmed as a wheel bearing, I've no similar sound on normal running), so I'm discounting that on mines. Pretty sure I heard a noise when the light first came on, like a crack, so I'm suspecting the reluctor ring on mines may have cracked. Not had a chance to have a look yet.

I've just read your OP again, I had a Kia that wouldn't start and when you turned the key to start the car, the lights all went out. This was caused by the battery negative. Tightening this where it connected to the body solved the problem. Might be an idea to remove it, clean it with some emery paper and put it back on. Disconnecting the battery for a while will reset everything, I don't know how easy or cheap it would be to recode the keys though. Have you found/read this thread about immobiliser issues on the other Chrysler site? http://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/chrysler-voyager-town-country-21/chrysler-voyager-2-5-diesel-2003-immobiliser-problem-20014/

Sorry, I updated my original post in between your replies. Mines only ever does the sweep if the battery is a bit weak, and will eventually lead to the car not starting.

If the normal routine is the dials turning in a clockwise motion, you've got battery/charging issues and now a flat battery. It shouldn't do this under normal circumstances. Jump start or charge battery short term, but you're going to need to get to the bottom of the problem. Here's a good thread to have a read through. http://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/chrysler-voyager-town-country-21/interest-those-getting-flat-batteries-20297/ I've done the battery mod mentioned to both my GV's to give a constant 14.4v charging voltage. I also have a current drain on this Voyager, that's bodged at the moment to get round the issue.

You've got them dimmed or off probably. There's a wheel to the right of the headlight switch that alters how bright they are.

I had to tighten mines, easily accessed from beneath once the undertray is off. I unplugged the connection on the filter head whilst I was in there, and used my phone to take a photo of inside the connection to check for damage as well. Damage in there can suggest a cracked filter head, although you would probably see evidence of it on the connection you've disconnected too. Final thing to mention is make sure that you get an o ring off. They can sometimes stick on and if you put the new filter on, complete with new o ring, you could end up with two in there.

I normally calculate it. Whenever I do, the computer is normally sitting a couple of MPG higher. I'm on 30.4mpg for 400 miles yesterday, I'll fill her back up later and work it out more accurately. Edited to add, worked out at 28.36 mpg

I'm about 26mpg on average, lots of shorter journeys, longest run normally 8-14 miles one way. That's the 2.8 auto with heater. I'm just off on a 420 mile journey, I'll fill her up and see what I get on a run. My 2.5 used to average 33mpg, manual box and no aux heater.

Possibly this?

I've had my battery out a couple of times overnight and have never had any problems when I've refitted it, so you should be fine. My radio is also able to be accidentally left on, as it has power all the time even although it shouldn't have. It would also drain the battery when off. Short term, I've disconnected the live feed it shouldn't have, longer term, I should really find out where it's getting it from, but I'll probably just fit a switch so I can isolate it. If yours is the same issue as mines, the digital clock on the radio will always be on, and the electric windows will work all the time as well.

With the Astra, I think it had a 2 filiment bulb, so 2 contacts on the bottom, a left and a right. Sidelight supplied a feed to one side/one filament, when you braked, it supplied the other filament. I'd put a single filiment bulb in, which only had a centre contact. With side lights on, it would have lit both filaments as the centre contact would be touching both springs in the holder. When they were off, and you braked, it would also supply the feed to the tail light side, and bring on the front lights. (thats my theroy lol)

When you say braking puts on the front sidelights, I'm with Gordy. Had it with an Astra years ago, I'd fitted the wrong brake light bulb and this caused the front lights to come on whilst braking.

Are they both far enough down/up when switched off? Might be worth taking the arms off and moving the lower one down a notch on the spleen, and/or the top one up a notch.