Liam89

Also I forgot to say the battery failed to charge. It is a sealed battery from what I can tell. I’ve got a very old charger that might trickle charge it (think I read about doing that somewhere)

Thanks mate. Just had a weird thing happen left car running and the Mrs said it started smoking. Engine now has a plastic burning smell but can’t find the cause never ends

Oh and for the sake £20 I’d go for the GB40 at 1000A

I’ve just been trawling all the forums trying to work out what the current situation was on the maintainers but thought it was easiest to just ask you what your findings were as of now! I won’t bother buying one of those then Just because I’ve read so many posts now, what’s your current status on the mod with the resistor? Also managed to get me One of these (https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/exide/ea852/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3OPOzZ_C3AIVBkAbCh0gvAH6EAQYASABEgJc7vD_BwE) out of my dads car before being scraped. Flat as a pancake but a year or so old so put on a discharge charge now and wait to see how it is. Looks the same spec as the F18 you said about before so will require some additional work to make it fit!

Also sorry for all the questions, but I was thinking of getting a solar panel charger. I see Halfords do a 6w for around £30 or is there a better one to get from say amazon?

What battery are you currently using? I think the GB70 needs to go on my Xmas list at that price! I guess it's well worth the money

Sorry if I sound thick but what's an S6? Do you charge your battery outside? I'd worry about leaving one on charge in the house all the time and have no power in my shed so I would look at building a small unit outside for it. £400 is a lot of money and a lot of batteries for not much more!

Thanks for your advice QinteQ I value what you are saying and am taking it all onboard and want to make the right decision not a quick decision. Have you or anyone you know of thought about a split charging circuit and run two batteries? I have the ctek 5.0 charger so will also consider keeping a battery on charge all the time if I can do it safely

I think I'm with you now. Is the red top really worth the money? I see they also do yellow and blue tops which can cater for a deeper cycle? The CCA on them looks good but the aH is lower than other batteries I've seen. The car doesn't really get used much and when it does most journeys are 10 -15mins which is why I was thinking of the MOD. I saw about the F18 batteries in one post but requires modification which I'm not worried about. Thanks for the help so far!

Yeah I've seen this on numerous websites giving the wrong info! It is half the price but the ah is better on it and it has lasted two years so not too bad I guess? I don't pretend to know it all about batteries but I don't know if it's better to have a higher Ah or higher CCA.

Thanks I've just been re reading this post. Been trying to decide best option. Red top, blue top, the enduroline (had this for 2 years) or something else. Decisions! I'll also be doing the MOD at work point I think!

I'm thinking it's battery on mine too. I will replace later this year. Have you done the mod for charging to increase the voltage charging the battery?

So no faults found, no codes started every time without fail. Going to get a battery check as he said a battery running low can cause all sorts of issues and codes. Still tempted to do an inline fuel pump though to ease the stress on it.

Just checked before I drove it and it wasn't hard but not really soft so not sure what to do. Got someone taking a look tonight so will see what they say

I have p0340 which I believe is crank shaft sensor. Was replaced a year or two ago but might replace it again to rule it out. Only other things I can think of for mine is that the new fuel filter wasn't tight enough or the lines haven't been done tight enough. Failing that I'm out of ideas

Have you had any fault codes come up with the key dance?

I assume you've been reading what I have on the jeep forums. I assume it's very similar on the GV. I think my pressure is still dropping somehow but haven't checked yet.

I've borrowed a streetwise OBDII scanner when I plug it in it goes through all protocols and then says link error and restarts. Do I need a specific scanner? 2007 2.8crd

I probably will just don't want to replace more things blind but with no other fault codes or cutting out under full throttle anymore I'm at a little bit of a loss. Going to get the code removed tomorrow and see if it comes back. I've read a fair few jeep posts that say about fitting an inline pump as they don't have one on their 2.8crd's do you know if this is the case on the Chrysler's?Also should the primer be hard all the time?

So I've got a GV 2007 2.8crd that stopped starting the other day which was down to the heater head being burnt badly and leaking diesel when primed. Had that replaced and all was fine for a short while which then it started again. I then replaced the fuel pressure release valve and it's now starting fine if I start the car straight away but not if I leave it. Battery was fully charged this week as I ran it flat trying to start the car and that's showing 12v standing and alternator is showing 14v output so believe that is all ok? Ignition trick shows a p0340 which I think is crankshaft sensor but had that replaced a year or two ago (or so I paid for) Is there anything else I could be missing? Or should I just pay out for a new crankshaft sensor and fit it and see if the problem goes away? Thanks

How do you battery reset?

The other week, my voyager seems to have developed an intermittent fault with the parking sensors. Sometimes only one side of the leds at the back will light up, sometimes they are red with "Service Parking Assist" warning on overhead console. I have cleaned the sensors on the outside and this hasn't solved the issue. Does anyone know what else it could be? Is there a route the cables take that I could trace and see if there is a break?

I know. The Mrs said just leave it it's not that much of an issue but it was really frustrating me and niggling away so I'm happy I found the issue. I just hope I haven't caused another issue

Just a quick update. I removed the relay and put the harness back to standard and everything's working great. Now my only concern is why was that wired in in the first place. Maybe they had an issue with the amp, any other ideas?

Think I've found some wires that have been tampered with. There's a ford relay wired in to the harness for some reason, a grey and red striped cable not connected to anything. Does anyone else have this or any idea what it could be done like this for? Want to put it back to standard but no idea why this would have been done?