mikebh8

....hm, a bit tricky symptom. It can be sensors, air intake manifold, fuel intake.... Does it rattle on idle? Going up the hill without accelerating does it go up nicely? Does the actuator work?( someone inside the car turning the engine on and off and you should see it acting, sometimes you can here it when turning off the engine) Having a fuel leak it could be that when running is pulling in air through there and messes the fuel rail sensor... Try fixing the fuel leak first and test for results. Hope it helps.

Hi, it is very easy. Ask them first if they will pay for an independent test, take the car to a different garage( one with more prestige) then ask them if they will collect the car to be repaired, otherwise take it there( add this to their bill). And you only take the car back when it is working. If they are not professional enough to deal with the problem, take it to a Chrysler dealer after you are assured by them that they will pay for the repairs. Worse come worse, tell them you will get a lawyer involved. Go there confident, maintain calm and insist, they will obviously try not to pay and/or repair for free, but if is their fault, they should. Replacing an engine is a bit complex and requires focus...if they overlooked something that was enough to damage the engine. Hope it helps.

...I found the original post, I'll let you know soon as I have dome info. P.S. for such a request (related to electric fault) the "black with special wheels" statement wasn't required, probably that put off the readers...

First there is no make and/or model, assuming it's a Chrysler what year? Let us know the above info and someone could give you an answer.

Hi, the one I know at the local scrapyard is 3.3 petrol so I could only help with the wing switch, I have that problem with one of my cars, rain got inside the buttons and now the passenger window it comes down but it doesn't go up unless I pull the switch many times and it goes up little by little. You could try removing the switch and clean it with a fine sand paper and wd40 otherwise needs replacing. As per the leakage, try turn the nuts more they might be loose if someone did any work on it in the past and left them loose by mistake, Hope it helps.

Hi, the easiest way is a fm radio transmitter, the second is a Bluetooth phone connection with an auxiliary output, or a new head unit with Bluetooth and other connection ways The last one it has to be designed for Chrysler( there are out here as I was looking for mine) because of the round edges. Hope it helps.

I just realised is year 2000, I don't know why I assumed is the fourth generation. I'll send your dad a picture anyway see if they are alike. Sorry.

Hi Andy, with the door open, on the lower side of the door is a hinge( that goes from the door to the car), removing the plastic cover you will find the mechanism, it is interconnected with the motor and the latch, start from there. I had this on one of my doors but honestly I can't remember how I fixed it...I know I didn't replace anything, so try to find a resetting method. It could be that the latching starts too soon when the closing motor didn't finish its sequence. Hope it helps.

Hi, when you say are not working you mean completely dead? On the steering column, on the right side, it should be a switch, if switched are they closing and opening? I didn't have time to look for the fuse yet, I'll post an answer soon as I have a minute.

Hi, could you post a picture and I'll look at mine see if is the same... As far as I know, the cars are initially built left hand drive and adapted to right hand drive when needed. The only parts that I think are different are the gearbox linkage, lights, mirrors( blind spot if equipped with it) and some electrics for the driver side door and seat...it might something else but on the engine I don't think so. When I have a minute I'll post some pictures of what I have in the loft as I dismantled a car and kept spare parts for mine.

Hi, not an expert but: To a turbo goes oil, water and gases. Assuming oil is fine and water, at least at the second one, didn't even get hot is gases. Could it be that you were so unlucky you got two broken ones in a row? Were they new? Is either one of the above or on the assembly stage something was overlooked. I'm sure someone with more experience will step in and give his/hers opinion.

Now I know what you mean, the elbow that Splits in two...Either way, get some "do it your self" gasket from euro car parts and cut it on size...be aware that some are containing asbestos. Hope it helps.

Now I know what you mean, the elbow that Splits in two...Either way, get some "do it your self" gasket from euro car parts and cut it on size...be aware that some are containing asbestos. Hope it helps.

Nice one, welcome. I'm sure you will find good info here as it helped me when I was struggling with mine. Enjoy the ride.

You mean something like this.. ?[attachment=511:intake

When the engine is running you can remove the battery and it will still run. When I worked on fuel...with an one year old battery it didn't start until I got a new one. I would suggest replacing the battery just to make sure you have good amperage on start. Do you get a red light( the battery one) on the dash, if you have a multimeter, check that the alternator is charging properly, about 14.4v if is led than 14 investigate further.

...not understanding all the grammar in there...but sounds like immobiliser issue. Did you replace the fuel pump with the battery on? Try getting an ecu read see what comes up. When turning the ignition to on does it crank loudly and fast or lazy turns?

The problem is the position where it is fitted, is always in contact with water...add some grease on the replacement it will help in the future

Hi, I replied to your other post, I'm not sure if Eurocarparts fit batteries but from them you can get S5 batteries which are 5 years of warranty. It is not the shop you want the best, is the battery.

Hi, here you have a list of shops that do batteries fitted, I don't know if they are around you but they operate nationally: Halfords Tyreland Quickfit And most of the service shops like tyre fitters or mechanics, it doesn't have to be the best one, a decent one will do.

Who knows about solar panels, would know that winter or summer is no much difference for them...cloudy, night yes but the temperature is not so important. Plus for a "no mechanical knowledge" is an easy way of dealing with the request. What ever space is on the dash, there is also bigger ones, just to have piece of mind. https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=20w+car+solar+panel+charger&sa=X&biw=360&bih=560&tbs=vw:l,ss:44&tbm=shop&prmd=sivn&srpd=13385348631915937887&prds=num:1,of:1,epd:13385348631915937887&ved=0ahUKEwiLkMiku_nWAhUJmBoKHdbECpMQgjYIuAU Never used that big, I use them since 2012 and the 12w was the biggest I ever bought, always did the trick for me. And who wants to take the battery out every week, charging it on the car may not be so easy due to where is parked.... the Mitsubishi I mentioned earlier was loosing current from morning till evening...when we were away visiting friends would have been awkward asking them if I can top up my battery on their sockets... with the Chrysler, I waited from 10 am till 3 pm to pick someone from the airport, after watching movies it still started the engine. Anyway for me it works a charm.

That was a generic example, same as the battery chargers, the solar panels are many brands. From experience, on a Mitsubishi L200, I extent the life of the original battery another year just by having a solar panel on the dash. I left a Vauxhall astra coupe parked for 7-8 months, started first time. The solar panel charger gives enough power not to drain the battery if the car does short trips or parked for a long period of time. Plus you can get from Halfords a 10w solar panel, the output being around 1 amp...is more than enough to keep a battery alive. ...its worth trying.

Hi, if by saying high discharge headlamp you mean xenon lights, the ballast could be faulty. Find where they are fitted and swap the one from the other side to check if the circuit is ok. Another solution could be that the ecu, to protect itself, turned off the circuit to that lamp, try disconnecting the battery, leave it to reset a while and connect it again...first find if you have a radio code and if by removing the battery will erase it. Hope it helps.

Hi, (silly suggestion but) make sure the battery is connected to the right terminals. Remove the battery, touch negative and positive terminals from the car together for 10-15 mins, this will drain all the power on the system, while connected press the brake pedal few times ( I don't know why either, just many suggest that by pressing the brake pedal empties any current within the system). Try that and please let me know the outcome. Hope it helps.

Hi, you could get one of these... You put it on the dash and connected straight to the battery. https://www.maplin.co.uk/p/solar-powered-12v-15w-battery-auto-trickle-charger-l58bf?cmpid=ppc:smart_home:pla:google&gclid=CjwKCAjwpfzOBRA5EiwAU0ccNx40ZA4U_kd1zGOargA22ZwzAGwJUpSoOzrn71qzP8nn-FktUWXWfRoCVMYQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Hope it helps.