mikebh8

If yours is round, yes those are the supporting screws. It is the same as Chrysler 300c. Give them a bit of wiggle as they can be stiff.

Now with the new pump, when you switch the button, do you hear a buzz? When you say loosing power to pump, what do you mean? You checked voltage to plug?

They stopped at the same time Did you try getting polarity reading from the switch/es? Do you get power to motors? Are the nipples clear? Hope it helps.

Manual transmission, press the clutch

They can be fixed, it worth taking to a local repair shop, I sometimes pay £10. If is just the alternator regulator or brushes. Plus for wrong polarity more than likely the regulator is gone as that is the entry point of the current. Otherwise between 80 and 160. But again if yours is original (usually Bosch) try fixing it first.

Is something I suggested to another 300c owner( at least the area where to look), I hope he reads this thread and sorts his clunking noise too. Very common of Ford too. The dealer doesn't want you to solve the problems with £13,50-15, they want you to spend hundreds if not thousands, I've been to a Chrysler dealer once, never in my life again. Glad it was that simple, sad it took a lot of money for you to get there.

Hi, to me it sounds the alternator is gone. It happened once on a L200, but I put the battery the other way around...more or less the same thing. If you have a multimeter, on DC with the engine idling, you should get around 14 volts. You probably think that if it would be the alternator you will have the battery light coming on the dash, not always. Hope it helps.

Try unplugging the battery, connect car's negative and positive for at least an hour and pray it will reset. Otherwise look into control unit/s if damaged.

What was it? You didn't give any details!

Well, is 2000 or 2001, I believe that mk3 finished in 2000 and mk4 started in 2001, I do however still see on the road mk4 with X starting on their number plate, which could be either one. Anyway, if you look through my older posts/replies, I shared a link for workshop manuals for more models and years.

Hi Andy, if you remember in a discussion while back, I cut into the speakers' wires, I did it on a 3.3 from 99 few years ago same way as I couldn't find the right harness for it. I can't explain why in other cases it can still be herd the radio as when Bluetooth is playing sound the radio should be on mute...

The grand voyager is from 2004.

By the way, the grand voyager is fr 2004.

Hi, my parrot was doing the same, I reset it to factory settings and then I was able to see it on my phone. Hope it helps.

Hi, there has been discussions about if a bluetooth hands free kit would work on a grand voyager. The link below is a video that I uploaded on youtube so I can show to whom it may concern that it works. I have to mention that the amplifier hasn't been touched and the bluetooth sound will only work if the radio is on (at least this is the way I wired it) Hope it helps.

Hi, I recently upgraded my key with the one in the pictures bellow. For who is interested, the blank was £7 ( ebay) and the key to be cut £3 ( local asda) The picture named "gv key" I added it just to show how not to do it, it did not start the engine with the chip in that position. The chip needs to be as per picture named "gv key 2". What I also did was to glue a bit of paper under the chip so no connection is made between the chip and the remote's circuit board. Moreover, the panic button works, I hope I will never need it for its purpose... but is good when finding the car in a large parking lot. Hope it helps.

The exception is that mine was doing it half way opening, in your case would be more difficult to see as the catch is at the beginning. Good luck with that. P.S. check if all the clips are in properly.

Mine was doing that, after repairing the wires, because it was catching somewhere

What model...year so on? If is a grand voyager how much for the pipes that go under car to the auxiliary heater? Also right front abs sensor.

He is talking about a grand voyager tough

It won't mess anything, what I heard is (I don't believe it yet) that the mileage displayed on the dash are stored within the dash...if you do find one and swap them over please note the current mileage and let us know if there are any changes. About the input and output sensor, I couldn't find them on my car, led me to believe it is the case only on automatic transmission...unfortunately is long time I don't have the auto GV to check for sure. Is yours auto?

Hi, from behind, inside the bumper, it is easy to take them off but you have to crawl under the car unless you have access to a ramp.

Hi, has the shock absorber been replaced? The sound, in most of the cases at least, is from the top rubber mount, it is usually held by three or four bolts against the body. Try that and let us know. Hope it helps.

Hi, when you say "it won't go past 40mph" you talking just the needle or the car itself? Try first resetting the instrument cluster (many YouTube videos on how to). If not, is either the unit itself or one of the sensors as you have been advised before. Unfortunately to know for sure you need to have spare parts, if you know someone with a grand Voyager ask if he/she can land you the instrument cluster to try. Hope it helps.

Try pressing the accelerator pedal just a little bit (around 1000 revs) and release it quickly, if the rattle is more obvious could be one of the injectors...but it will show on a ecu software where you said is no fault coming up. Undo the "y" pipe connections from intake manifold, stuck a finger or a screwdriver in and check for built up carbon, do you have oil in the oil cooler( I don't know exactly how much should be) but if is no oil it means the fault is in recirculation. ...anyone else with any other suggestions please step in...is always good having few inspections to find the right fault.