mikebh8

Hello, I replaced the water pump on my engine and I was checking that the timing is right. I removed the crankshaft and the two camshaft pins and as I was hand spinning the crankshaft I noticed there is another hole for the blocking pin... I am a bit confused now, which one is the right one?

Hi, does the reverse light/lights at the rear of the car come on? The reverse lights and the sensors are linked through the same switch, on the gear box(mine 2004 is on the left hand side of the car behind the wheel), otherwise the sensors won't know that the gear is switched to reverse. Hope it helps.

I forgot to mention, I don't know if for all the models will do the same thing but replacing the ECU cancelled the radio code... on a radio with satnav, still trying to find the code avoiding calling the dealer. Why would it be stored in the ecu instead of the radio itself?!

Hi, I took some parts off as I replaced the gearbox. The thermostat was blocked open...I don't know if that made the oil boiling. When the oil filling cap removed, a lot of steam comes out. However this does only start when the engine is getting hot not in the first 20-30 mins. Could it be from the coolant? I'll check today and let you know.

Hi, the oil is now half way between the min and max marks. Ill drain the oil tomorrow to see if is any water in it, there isn't any on the dipstick when I pulling it out. Where should I look for a blocked ventilation system? Thanks.

Hello again, I noticed on my engine that with the dipstick off a lot of oil is coming out through that small pipe. I removed some, now the level is half way on the dipstick but it still does it. Any ideas why? I have to mention this is a "new" second hand engine that I am trying to get it running, I only had it running an hour or sow twice. Thank you.

Hello, if I may, I had the same exact thing on my GV. It only bent few rockers. All together £150(timing belt kit and rockers) plus labour, I did it myself but I guess around £400 including new timing belt to be fitted.

Hi, andy2000, about the thermostat tell me about it, as is the 3rd time I put my hands on one of those....my brother in law found out the trick, you remove the wipers and the motor cover along with the motor casing, soon as you done that is a 15 mins job. gordy, soon as I finish work today I'll have a look again at it, however I managed to take a part the old engine ( up to the injectors) and as I took out the water pump I found debris like brick residue, could the radiator be blocked?! I'll post the answer soon as I sort it out. Thanks.

Hi, what I did to start a car where the driver lost the keys, I replaced the ecu and the key immobiliser along with the ignition barrel What I did was removing the battery, removing the ecu, left the car with plus and minus probes connected between them for about 20 mins, replaced all the parts, connected the battery, ignition on for about 5 mins (the engine managed light was on), turned the ignition off for about 10 mins, and after it started. You don't have to replace the alarm as it is a separate circuit. Hope it helps. The only problem would be that for a future owner if he/she wants to buy new key from the delay, the code won't be useful. If you want to do it, try to find one that comes with the small metal plate that has the manufacturer's code on it. Hope it helps.

Hi gordy, thanks for replaying and thanks for previous replies too. My little experience would let me think that the airlock in the system would only boil the water and eventually damage the gasket?!?! Correct me if I'm wrong. On the other hand the thermostat, I replaced the one from my brother in law's car ( which eventually ended up being mine so I can use parts to start mine) with the one from the old engine that I broke ( long story). The only problem that GV had was cold air in the cabin even though the heat was at maximum. I will remove that one, we know that is working as it solved the problem on that car, and I will fit it to mine. I'll keep the post updated. Thanks. P. S. The air bleeding was done by the most stupid mechanic I ever met, I eventually removed the car from his garage and DIY it until it started. Does anyone know or has a link to a step by step guide How to properly bleed a 2.5 crd GV? Again thanks for all the help received through this forum.

Hi, with the engine off, measure the battery ( you should have whatever is left,probably 12.something volts) With the engine running, first of all if you have the small red battery light on the dash on it means the alternator won't charge, however if it's on its way out bit still workng you will get measurements with little voltage above the first reading. If it is on and is charging, you should get 13.80-14-40 volts steady. Hope it helps.

Hi, I bought a GV to get parts so I an start mine, eventually today I got mine started so I will be scraping the other one. Most of the parts available apart from , gearbox and some relays and other small bits. Thanks for looking

Hi, still looking for the wheels, I have four on one of my chrysler which soon will go to scrap, but I will need your old ones? Other parts available. Thanks.

Hello, I have a 2004 gv, 2.5 crd which is over a year I am trying to get it started after replacing the engine. It finally started this morning ( I am frilled, is like having a new born baby) For those who want to know the story: After replacing it, it won't start.Initially was cranking with help from easy start but after two cans of spray I gave up that option. I replaced most of the sensors, injectors, tank with lift pump, relays and eventually the battery which was only one year old. My conclusion is: The ASD( autoshotdown) relay was faulty from the previous engine, no fault on the diagnostic except "fuel level sensor/ open circuit", which led me to replace the tank ( I did not check to see if the fault is still there). After replacing the ecu, I found out about the ASD and after fitting the old ecu back, I replaced the relay, now I had power coming to injectors ( it should be between 0 and 1 volt) Air in the fuel system, which I solved it by removing about 10-15 litres of fuel until no bubbles where seen into the clear hose fitted to the pipe coming from the low pressure pump. Also thanks to Andyb2000, I new to undo the cap under the fuel filter ( I left it unscrewed for 3 turns). Last was the one year old battery( which I never thought until after I noticed that was charging to fast). Even tough the green dot was there and was holding the voltage, was not enough amperage to crank an engine. Today after having it started I found out that this type of cars need the right amperage to get it started. Now, the problem that I have is that after letting it running about 30 mins, the water hose connected to the lower right corner( facing the car) of the radiator came undone when the temperature reached more or less 85 degrees.I was expecting to hear if the fans kick in, as this was the initial problem, last year before replacing the engine. When I got the current engine, i was assured by the seller that is running fine, I am assuming the water pump is good?!?! also it has it's own thermostat that came fitted on the engine. Any ideas why the water won't circulate and builds up enough pressure to push out the hose? Also, thank you for all the help received from the members of this forum that replied to my posts over the time and helped me understanding the issues.

Hi, I as well keep trying to start the car for over a year, today it finally started. Related to the fuel lift pump, I disconnected the fuel supply to the high pressure pump it is one of the two near the maf sensor), in a fuel can I put a long translucent hose( so it seats on the floor and the fuel can be seen) and I turned the ignition on and off several times( about 30 times), I removed about 10-15 litres, until no bubbles were visible on the hose. Make sure is enough fuel in the tank ( I was putting it back in the tank as the can was filled up) and also make sure the hose it seats dipped in the fuel( live about a litre in the can). The lift pump I guess is controlled by a timed relay, """only guessing"" if the original relay was faulty and you fitted a different one, it may not have the same components in it, try to get a same one if that's the case. Mine had more problems than that, which were discussed in other threads, thanks to Andyb200 ( also thanks to others that replied to my posts) I had very good points where to start from. Hope it helps.

Check for gearbox oil leaks and/or oil level,on automatic if the gearbox oil level sensor detects a loos will let the car be driven to the garage. Hope it helps.

I had a one year old battery and excluding that from the picture, I replaced sensors and injectors ( from another car for testing), eventually I bought a new battery and it started first time. I believe is the battery. Please update the thread once it is solved.

What is working before. I am not sure but I believe it will only function on cold weather. You can tel if it is working by listening after turning the engine off and couple of seconds after you will see a bit of smoke coming out from the auxiliary exhaust under the left side rear passenger door.

Hello again. I finally bought a ecu tester and after a diagnostic came out the fault in the picture attached . could anyone tell me what it means, I have a clue but a second opinion never hurts? Thank you. P.S. I meant to do the filter bleeding valve but the battery was dead, I'll have to wait few hours.

Hi all, I found some information about the fuel related to a Ford, I put fuel and now is just over a quarter. Today I'll try the filter air/water bleeding valve by the filter which is located by the tank. Thanks all for all the productive information, I can't wait to get it running specially now where the worming seats would be a luxury welcomed.

Hi, I still struggle getting my grand voyager started ( it's been discussed in other topics). Now I came to a point where bleeding it makes sense why it won't start. I managed to change the air flow sensor and I fitted the old pressure regulator valve ( for those who don't know, the current engine is a replacement and I still have the old one). I also added a bleeding pump and a picture is attached. My question is, any comment is welcomed, when operating the pump, should get harden to the point where it seems that the fuel does not flow through anymore? I tried on my brother in law's car and his, with the engine off, is soft on pumping it. Also, the tank pump makes long buzz noise (about 10-15 seconds), when pumping a lot of air came through, now is constant when pumping into a bucket. If anyone knows how to properly bleed this type of engine, please let me know. Also, the timing was off one tooth, now is fine after buying the kit and using it. As always, thanks for all the help.

Hi, Adel, what year is it? My Autodata shows that 2.8 engines were fitted on voyagers 2001-2008, grand voyagers 2001-2008 and grand voyagers 2008+ (which is the new shape). To all it showed a cam belt replacement with instructions and pictures. Only the one 2008+ it does not show any data under timing belt section, that one is probably chain but I'm not sure. I attached two pictures, in one is a 2.5/2.8 engine ( they look the same) and one with a picture taken from my car. If you have those labels bellow the red "x" I marked n the engine picture it means it will have a cam belt. I hope it helps.

Hi almaff, I have a parrot Mki9200 fitted on my 2004 Chrysler grand voyager and I had a parrot 3100 fitted on a previous one ('99 model). In both occasions I had to connect the speakers by cutting the wires of both the stereo's speakers and the parrot's. A good electrician shouldn't have a problem doing this, the important thing is to make sure the parrot's input wires are connected to the stereo's output and output wires of parrot are connected to input of the speakers. Attached, hopefully, you will see a picture with the wiring of my parrot. The blue one is the input of the parrot and the output of the stereo, the red one is the other way around. The other picture is with an example of a connection wire that can be used to make it more easily removable, I did not intend to remove mine, that's why I soldered directly the wires. As per price, everything above £35-40 is too much, with my previous gv I asked a specialist to do it and was (if I remember well) £180..few hours later I had it done myself. Where about are you, if is not too far I could do it for you?

Hi there. Just curios: was the car driving fine before their "service"? Also, automatic gear boxes go into limp mode if gear box oil level is low...I know from experience too, the symptoms are that the gears won't change (in theory it gives you the opportunity to drive to a mechanic). Plus, many garages use apprentices as help ( no offence to anybody) and sometime an unexperienced labourer could overlook something as basic as filling the oil to the level... I'm just saying. If you want to check the level, remove the top cap from the gear box (it is also the filling point) and the oil should be felt with the finger. If it seems like is no oil in, put the right type of oil ( I would replace the whole lot) until is pouring out from the same whole. If you want to replace all the oil, undo the bottom bolt. ...hope it helps somehow as once I scrapped a good car just because I didn't know about the connection between auto gears and gearbox oil level.

Hi, as suspected the front camshaft was one tooth off. I could actually see it through the top by removing the oil cap. Thanks for the link soapstone, right before receiving the notification about your post I've order a kit.... This is how I broke the rockers on the previous engine, by not having them and improvising with metal drill bits. This time I am doing it "properly", actually taking it to a mechanic would be the right thing to do but I can't for the love of god find a good mechanic... Anyway I'll keep the post up to date. Thanks for all the support so far.