mikebh8

Charles Trent in Poole. Just saw one in. Send them the pictures and they will let you know. If they don't have on the shelf they will take from the one in the yard. http://www.trents.co.uk/

Hi, sorry for late reply, I found what it was. In the picture attached you will see a red circle, all that section was filled with oil and carbon debris. Plus the thermostat was blocked.

Hi, don't get it for granted but to me it sounds the clutch... When moving from stop the clutch needs to operate at its full potential, when the car is moving already even a quarter of it would do. Is yours automatic or manual? I am no expert and I know little about gear boxes but on automatic gearboxes the clutch is a component like "torque converter system" which includes more parts and that all together connects the engine with the transmission. On manual ones it could be the clutch master and/or slave cylinder ( it comes as a set) that does not allow the bearing to fully depress. Hope it helped.

Hi, there let me know if/when you find a solution as I am thinking of something for the same problem. Unfortunately most of the GVs have this problem. I'll post if something tidy found.

Hi, only few days ago I finished rebuilding my engine (long story) and as I was putting the pipes and auxiliary parts back, I said I'll give them a good clean. In the picture attached you will see a red circle, that whole section circled was full with black residue of oil and built up carbon. The circulation hole was thinner than a cigarette. I would inspect that, as I looked at my brother in law's GV and was more or less the same. Not excluding the injectors though. Hope it helped.

Hi, just a thought, from your post indicates that you probably recently bought it..."i am beginning to think it was a bad idea buying a chrysler" It happen to me when I first bought one. Please see pictures attached to understand what I'm about to say: for some reason Chrysler added an option on the ignition where it gives the driver the opportunity to extract the key with the engine running...sometimes is good but when it comes to turn off the engine and lock the car...if not enough attention is given to in what position the key was when removed, the second ACC is still on. Where the red circle is it used to be a push button which will block or unblock the key to go to zero position. Where the orange line is, is there where the key should be so all the electrics are off. the blue line to the left of the orange one it keeps the car "alive", and with the key on the right of the orange line it lets the driver remove the key while engine on. I removed mine (on both, the previous one and the current one) and never had problems since... Also, when the key removed and the driver door is opened, if you hear a buzz it means the ignition is still "on", even if the key is not in. Hope it helped.

Hi, if is a manual would be the one in the picture bellow, the other picture is the location on the gear box. Hope it helped.

Just clarify a misunderstanding... The first whole is TDC ( where the marks align at the bottom). BUT, to put back the timing the crankshaft needs to be at 3 o'clock, which is the second whole... I didn't finish yet to see if by spinning the crankshaft with the timing belt on is still at the given marks but it looks like it.

I don't know if applies to this model too but on a Mercedes c220 was the battery that was sending wrong signals to the electronic gear shifting module.... Try see if it works one yours. Hope it helps.

Is it the same car as previous posted? You topped up the oil...It didn't come back to life? Try removing the bottom bolt, from the gearbox, make sure you have a container for the oil that will come out. It is magnetic, if you have metal residue on it it means the fault is in the gearbox itself due to lack of oil.

Hi, sorry for late reply but personally I didn't fell confident in giving advices with the faults you are having. However, if not sort it already, first to look for are: Speedo sensor (see picture) it is attached to the gearbox on the driver side and connected to driver's driveshaft. High gear problem it has been discussed before, check first the oil level in the gearbox, on the gearbox near the passenger wheel is a rubber cap, pull it out and feel with the finger or something if it is oil up to there. The hazard lights will stay on until the key is turned on to ACC. Hope it helps. If not sort it already, tomorrow I'll let you know the fault code meaning.

TDC may stand for top dead centre but the marks on the crankshaft and the timing back cover are at the 6 o'clock position as it can be seen in the picture. The one on the crankshaft can't be seen properly but I can assure is there.

Gordy, thanks for the suggestion. I got it eventually...slow mind. TDC as in 6 o'clock position.

It has been asked in another topic, does your reverse light/s come on when switch gear into reverse? It could be the reverse switch which is attached on the gearbox.

Hi, welcome. You have to go into forum> grand voyager> 4th generation. The 2.8 and the 2.5 crd are the same.

Hi, if it has one, would be under the floor carpet in the boot. If somewhere in the car you have a kit with a foam spray in it, it means the model was not supplied with a spare wheel, that spray will fix a small puncture on the side of the road.

the "key" set comes with three individual parts: 1- immobiliser 2- alarm and other futures on the remote 3 key itself cut to fit the barrel If you find a random key from a same model, you could get the chip from it and fit it in a new cut key, then with a good software you could program it. I am not sure if it works with used chips but it definitely works with new "virgin" chip and up to for keys per ECU. Or you could get a simple key to be cut just for spare, but it wont turn the engine on. Hope it helps.

I would go back to the garage... It sounds like the turbo is pulling in air, I had a problem like that and was a melt carbon pipe with a hole in it like a 5p coin. Does it come out smoke? It can be a loose connection.

You can by a sheet from a car parts supplier or over the internet and cut your own... they are doing it on old models as some parts are very rare.

My suggestion is manual, I had automatic and now I have manual, fuel consumption makes the difference, however more pleasant to drive an automatic. The stow n go models are a bit more expensive if you really need a flat bed, on mine the seats come off when need it. Other then that is excellent car.

Anyone has a clue about the two holes in the flywheel?? I have done some research on the internet... no luck. I attached a picture with the flywheel. It looks like a bit more than 10-15 cm ( this is a screenshot from one found on ebay, I can't tell for sure on mine). In the picture, lower side, it can be seen another hole but that on the other side ( when rotating the crankshaft) does not appear. Initially, I guess, was in the right one as the engine was running, but was spraying oil out through the dipstick, I decided to replace the water pump and check the radiator as the lower radiator hose came off as well( I opened topics regarding that too). In the past I removed the timing belt and fitted new one but not a new water pump... could it be that then I blocked the crankshaft in the wrong position and that caused the oil problem? If anyone knows in which one the crankshaft blocking pin goes please advice as I stopped work on the car until I find out. Thank you in advance.

2.5 and 2.8 are practically the same engine. Above the filter is a pump that primes the fuel system when the ignition is on....the high pressure pump doesn't even start until the engine is cranked. If the fuel supply to the high pressure pump is removed and ignition is turned to on position, fuel will come out. I've done it, to remove air from the system I removed about 15 litres of fuel pumped by the lift pump. On your several 2.8 engines. when the ignition was switch to on position, could you hear a buzz coming from the rear of the car?That is the lift pump or the prime pump, unless you have/had a different engine or fuel system fitted but I doubt it.

Hi, just a guess, is the engine earth strip in place, it is connecting the engine with the body, in the picture you can only see only the part that goes on the engine mount, the other end should be attached to the engine mount bracket( is about 10 cm long).

Hi, I was just about to modify the sentence, yes removing the starter and through the whole into the flywheel. Basically the flywheel has two holes about 10-15 cm one from another.

On my GV I replaced initially one and after a while ( I couldn't get it started) I replaced all 4 without coding the injectors. If they come from the same model are fine. Moreover I replaced the whole engine with all the sensors and it didn't matter. Even if you swap injectors between them doesn't matter, I've done it as I forgot the order when removed them. If the sensor or injector is in the same parameters as the old one was, it is recognised by the ECU. If I take one from a Mercedes sprinter ( which they use same engine as my GV) then I should probably have to code the new injector. So far on this model I replaced every electronic part as I was struggling to get it started. The only thing that happen was the management light on for few minutes until the self test was done. Eventually was the ASD relay and the battery which was only one year old... After it started, to play around with it, I replaced only the ECU without the immobiliser. It didn't start and the red light on the dash was on.