mikebh8

Do apologise bignev, only now I noticed that you've mentioned the strap already.

...if the garage guy stated that the clutch is a "sealed unit"..I would take it to a second inspection if I were you. The clutch can be seen and touched through the hole where the slave cylinder goes in the gearbox. Fluid cannot be added to the system but if it does not work properly can be noticed by: pedal pushed to the floor and a second person would have to see if by hand the bearing is going further(the slave or master usually show signs of worn if damaged). I would check the flywheel as although the clear symptom would be high revs and slow car movement, rarely can cause the opposite effect, when clutch pushed to the floor filling a knocking (vibration) in the foot like is trying to engage the gear. The easiest one is the slave and master but I'm guessing is the flywheel. Not an expert, hope it helps.

Hi, the very basic ones won't even show certain codes. I use Delphi ds150e, it is decent for the money spent. Its around £100 and it does the job. Hope it helps.

Hi, probably not the same fault but: A Honda accord was having the same symptoms and it was an earth strap from the gearbox. Solved with a 4.5mm multicore wire and two washer clamps. The fault was no connection with TCM. Not an expert, don't take it as granted. Hope it helps.

You could go with IO(IQ) play 2 https://www.justcarkits.co.uk/acatalog/ioplay2.html Mki9200 http://www.halfords.com/technology/bluetooth-car-kits/bluetooth-car-kits/parrot-mki9200-bluetooth-handsfree-kit-v3?cm_mmc=Google+PLA-_-Bluetooth+Car+Kits-_-Bluetooth+Car+Kits-_-119671&_$ja=tsid:60494%7Ccgn:GoogleShopping%7Ckw:119671&istCompanyId=b8708c57-7a02-4cf6-b2c0-dc36b54a327e&istItemId=waimrllpq&istBid=tztx&_$ja=tsid:35522|cid:373456924|agid:32370657604|tid:pla-276863549524|crid:111938859364|nw:g|rnd:13641697780906837643|dvc:m|adp:1o1&gclid=CjwKEAjwvr3KBRD_i_Lz6cihrDASJADUkGCarHnMCjPsu5Iy08U2pS6v5Iwx3QDP81SD2oVHrHw0GBoCL5Dw_wcB The parrot's beauty is that the control button is wireless and can be mounted on the steering wheel, it doesn't come with standard fittings, I use instead a bell's support from a bicycle. Are plenty more brands that can be used but these I used for many years, some of the cars are still on the road (I'm friend with the owners) and still working. Hope it helps.

Average on a turbo engine, after remapping, is between 30-50% more. A good mechanic would be able to pull 60 but depends on the age and miles of the engine. Welcome to the club.

Hi, when you say you had the clutch replaced, was this done by a mechanic or yourself? Have you had the bearing done too?( you probably did, but just to rule that out) I'm asking as if was done by a professional, he/she would have noticed the following. Sounds like the flywheel, one of the the clutch's cylinders or both( master,slave) or even the whole clutch system from master to slave is faulty. P.S. if it goes in and out of the gears from 2nd to 3rd, 3rd to 4th and so on, it is not the clutch. If you still have the old clutch keep it for future use.

Hi, happy to hear is sorted, please mark it as answered for future viewers.

"Over night" or when the car is left off for a long time, the high pressure system should be a closed circuit(with no fuel drainage), it is not the same pressure as when the engine is running but when the engine is turned over the high pressure pump will push fuel in the fuel rail system and soon as the pressure riches the right volume (depending on the engine is different) it will open the injectors If there is a leak the pressure Wil drop and the fuel rail pressure sensor will detect it and it won't give signal to the high pressure pump which won't give signal to the injectors. When easy start is used, the explosion inside the combustion chamber will open the injectors "manually" or forced and more fuel will be pushed in and so the four stages being complete, the engine will run. From the pump to the injectors is always high pressure when the engine is cranked hence why when working on it it is always recommended to open the pressure release valve, to release any built up pressure, If an injector(or more), or a leak is anywhere along the system, the ecu (using one of the sensors) will send the engine into limp mode to protect the function of it and the parts that can get damaged from the fault. On mine, when diagnose software was connected to the car's ecu, fuel fault was displayed. I don't remember exactly but was code 42 ( with delphi) and related to fuel level open circuit. Mind that in my attempt to start the engine, the ASD (auto shut down relay) became faulty, that relay interacts with car's immobiliser, high pressure pump and power to the injectors (worth testing it). Having an injector that does not send back the same amount of fuel as the others due, (to me) indicates that it lets the fuel going into the combustion chamber, you probably have black smoke coming out of the exhaust. Also bear in mind the system used on these cars is "common rail" which indicates that a fault developed on one injector will affect the whole system, these cars also need a very very good battery, otherwise it won't start after work has been done on the fuel system. A wornish battery will work on a daily basis but I had to buy a new one to finally get it started. Hope it helps

Don't give up so easily. I end up buying another car after a "new" second engine was already fitted on the car. It finally started it but after almost a year. Move on to the injectors and see if they're all good. Good luck.

Happy it worked, let me know (all of us for that matter) if that was it. Cheers.

Unfortunately the server does not allow me to upload any pictures anymore, by the way does anyone know why? I only have 1.78 KB available. Soon as I sort this problem I'll add some.

It sounds like a leak in the fuel system. Was doing that to me when I had a bad injector. Some say a car should start with three injectors too, on this model not so true, at times I was draining the battery and still won't start until as you say I was helping it with easy start. Remove the return pipes from the injectors, fill the small holes of the top of the injectors with fuel and leave it over night. If one or more it does not have the fuel in it means it leaks. Other if you are more confident, improvise four disposable coups with the return pipes attached inside the coups, isolate the return lines (should be two) and turn on the engine, after few minutes you should get more or less the same amount of fuel in each coup. There are videos on you tube with how it's done as well. Hope it helps.

Hi, welcome. I'm guessing a leaking injector. After driving the half hour..won't start in that minute or after a while left with the engine off? Starts first time every time as in every morning starts fine but after driving it, with the engine worm, it won't start again?

The best thing to do is to remove the front bumper and see if it is the same as the one in the picture. You're GV is forth generation and was built from 2001 to 2007, in the picture is slightly different, it may be that the radiator fits on a late third generation and early fifth.

Hi, I managed to fix the reverse light switch on my car. You could say that I could have bought it but... As I had one from a GV that I scrapped, after replacing it and having the same issue ( no reverse lights or parking camera on), I said I have to know what's inside them to know if they can be fixed. Unfortunately I can't upload anymore pictures ( maximum is 1.78KB that I can use)but I will try to explain it: The switch is made from two parts, the one with the ball and the other one with pin connectors. This two parts are separate by a (in this case orange) rubber membrane. On the side of the ball, behind it, is a spring with two flat pieces one for each end of the spring and slightly different from another. On the other side, where the connection pins are, is a spring that runs between the two pins and a piece of stainless steel plate that looks more like a hat. After breaking one of them, I could tell that even though the materials used are corrosion free and in a concealed environment, the connection was not made despite the fact that they were touching. So on the one that I fixed I melted the sides along the pins, only 5-10 mm from the metal side ( ball side) towards the end of the pin, until I could see the inside part of the pin. I cleaned the remaining melted material with a Stanley knife blade and between the pin and the "hat" I passed the point of the Stanley knife few times. To make sure in the future it does not happen again, I added some grease on the pin and hat, finally I sealed the cuts with silicon, that's what I had but anything you can use is good as long as it's thick and it does not go inside the hole blocking the connection. I added some electrical tape to protect the silicon from dust or any dirt that might get there, the connection plug it covers most of it anyway. It works so far, but even if it breaks again it will be a 10 mins job now to remove the silicon and scratch the connections again. Hope it helps.

Hi andyb2000, by all means I don't argue your results. I as well been into electrics for many years (my childhood toys were my dad's electrician tools), plus I am a 17th edition qualified, so if I may say: The only time that happen to me, both sound from radio and bluetooh in the same time but one slightly lower in volume, was when by accident I wired the stereo output with the bluetooth input, anyway the big picture was that I cut the wires to the bluetooth (both input and output) in the same time without marking them.That was on a vauxhall astra 2001. It might happen too if the bluetooth unit doesn't mute the stereo when used. Hope it helps.

I suggest trying a different AV adaptor and if you have the same output, replace the socket as it might be widened from previous use. Hope it helps.

Hi, I had 300c wheels on my 2004 Grand Voyager. The spacers are a must for the rubbing noise and/or damage. bear in mind the set comes as two wider than the others, I can't remember which ones go in the front or which ones go in the back but I remember one of them was still touching when turned left or right ,and when I eventually removed them, I realised the two spacers of the front wheels were different size, same on the rear ones too. I think the thinner ones go on the front (someone else if knows more please step in). Hope it helps.

To be removed, the ignition barrel needs to come out, the bit that you want to take out is held by few small screws and a spring. You need a set of 6 pin screwdrivers and few other tools like a set of pliers. If you're not far from BH postcode I'm happy to help but you have to come to my place.

I'm not sure if the question was meant for me...but Mine is factory fitted with chrysler logo and "mopar" brand on it, the screen is above the front seats, slitglhy towards the middle with 3 buttons it top on the screen frame, single dvd player with the sat nav above the automatic climate control and the dvd bellow.

Hi, any of you guys is willing to come over to mine, I guarantee I can make it work. I did it on several makes and models. It does not affect the original stereo sound, the only thing what it does is that it takes the original stereo sound and pass it through the bluetooth unit to the speakers, when the bluetooth is used it mutes the stereo and only lets out the sound from the bluetooth unit. Mine works perfect. It does not matter what type of connection you have. I even did it on a Peugeot 307 that doesn't have a switch line on the stereo, but a permanent positive and negative and a switched negative. Hope it helps.

Hi guys, mine is '04 with the satnav and dvd but it works without the remote, I didn't have one when I bought it but it works fine without...soon as you put a dvd in the display turns on. Hope it helps.

Hi, replacing the mirror doesn't help either, did that. As per the door, I heard is a faulty pillar switch or wiring to/from it. Between my daily routine and hobbies I sometimes work on the car, I'll keep posted if any changes. Cheers.

Hi, when the remote is operated and sound and flashes come one, it means one of the doors is still open. I believe you have an open circuit that fools the ecu to believe the door is still open. I don't know how good you are with testing but: Try operate the remote with the motor removed and testing the power coming to the motor feed, if the power comes to it it means the motor is faulty, if not you have to check every connection backwards from the motor to the switch, continuity and power where is the case. Hope it helps.