mikebh8

Hi, my database show as "Engine RPM input- circuit malfunction. probable cause: wiring CKP/RPM sensor ECM/PCM/TCM. Do you have your RPM showing on the dash? I also found a very useful app on Google Play, "AutoCodes"( with blue and red letters) Where under Chrysler says "Engine speed sensor circuit" Clicking on it it shows possible causes: -faulty crankshaft position sensor circuit ( not necessarily the sensor itself) -crankshaft position sensor harness is open or shorted -crankshaft position sensor circuit poor electrical connection -communication error between Engine control module and transmission control module. Hope it helps.

Hi, you could get it for peace of mind, what I did was to use another jack to put it under the bolt after loosing it and then with a 5 kilo hammer and a 20-30 cm bar you tap the arm. It should come loose very easy. Hope it helps.

Hi, I didn't replace the exhaust but I replaced my engine and to do that I needed to disconnect the exhaust from the manifold. That is the most difficult place to reach on the exhaust. The car needs to be high up ( I used a friend's garage to lift the car up), you should get a set of decent stands. You need a long (I used two) extension for the four 10mm bolts. They can break so apply wd40 first and leave it for a while to suck in My advice if you want, replace the gasket and don't use any gasket sealant ( you probably know that already) Hope it help.

To me it sounds like the front wheels blocked but the rear ones no, I would investigate the braking system. At the back of the car, attached on the axle there is a distributor for rear brakes, investigate see if is working properly. Hope it helps.

Hi, were you applying brakes? I assume so, it is something to do with the ABS system...even though it does not show it on the dash as a fault. Could you feel knocking on the brake pedal?

What I do, is turn the engine clockwise and pull the belt, there is a tool for that but I never really needed to decide buying it. I can see the crankshaft pulley even with the cover on so it is not fully covered...I will investigate the length of the belt/s, I couldn't find a model without air compressor so I can only assume the accessories belt was an improvised match, try measuring it and find a smaller one by 2-3 mm, should stop the squicking. Hope it helps.

Hi, there is no tensioner for the steering belt. The squick could be because the inner wheel arch cover is missing?! The belt at some point was replaced with few mm longer one, I had once a difference of 2mm and was squicking( different car) Also, if the compressor was removed a different accessories belt was fitted, could be that squicking?! again wrong size. Hope it helps.

...I was looking online for more info without realising I had the info needed right in front of me: By moving the mouse pointer on the wire abbreviation it tells the colour, so here you have: (You should get the software is better and better discovering new stuff every time I use it) hbl- light blue hgn- light green

It is easy, as long as the rotor is not damaged, for the money you could give it a try.

Speedo not working, does the car move as in in is it driveble. Try the speed sensor, I don't know on yours but on manual is at the inner end of one of the driveshafts.

There is no difference, at least according to the Autodata version that I use and I believe it, nor between grand Voyager and Voyager (strictly under the bonnet talking). Hope it helps.

It depends how good yoy are with mechanics...by the time you find the brushes you take it to a local mechanic, I usually pay £10-20 depends. If you don't get them right it can damage the rotor, I prefer taking it to someone that does this for a living. Also keep in mind that playing with the negative (earth) it creates high inrush current that can damage the starter, if not damaged already.

https://www.hitechcontrols.com/cables/technical-information/48-color-abbreviations.html Hope it helps.

It means the starter brushes are gone, they can be repaired. I don't know if is normal but mine does it too, then it does it after the engine is stopped for few minutes.

Can you post a picture with it?

Don't mistake alternator with starter. Probably just a typing error but to make sure, the starter is low below attached near the gearbox that engages the flywheel.

The engine mount beneath the air box should be earthed, it is just a 10 cm metal strip from the bit that is attached to the engine to the bit that sits on the body. I had problems with that too, I fitted a 10mm earth wire with eye crimps at each end. Hope it helps.

If is just the clicking without the engine cranking is either the battery or the starter. Check the starter then.

On the unit you have a button that says Hi/Auto/Low, that turns on the webmaster, to turn it off, it will when the temp reaches the set value or if turn the motor speed knob ethier way. Hope it helps.

Guys we had it all wrong, look at the link I attached in post #5, it is related to diesel.. I know it's weird but according to the article it is.

Check the info in the link below: https://dogandlemon.com/articles/ownership-issues/diy-diesel-problem-diagnosis

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but white smoke was coolant wasn't it?!?! Check the coolant level and make sure I'm wrong, but it sounds like gasket to me?!?!

Yes.

The test for the boost sensor is made with the plug in?...did you have your engine running while the plug disconnected?!?!?! If you did, most likely the check engine light came on, if it doesn't turn off disconnect the battery terminals for 20-30 mins and see if that helps. Anyway, I believe the reading are not good readings, so I will wait until you reply to this topic with the reading when engine running because even if you took the readings with the engine on..after disconnecting the plug you will have wrong measurements. Have a look at the picture attached, if the values don't mach my previous post, chase the cables and do a polarity test checking for any physical damage. The boost sensor is labelled B105 and the MAF is B101 Terminal number 3 from boost sensor goes to the MAF sensor terminal number 2