mikebh8

My apologizes Karmannski...I read through the title, the author did not specify his model.

I just checked online...the first one I clicked on it is 52.99.... What exactly are they replacing...... I hope not the turbo cause that's behind there too.

Karmannsky...a CRD engine would be diesel and 2.8 at Chrysler is definitely a diesel The coolant thermostat at 2.5 and 2.8 CRD models (might be on others too) is bellow the spark plugs in the middle of the engine block... The thermostat is mechanically energised by the water's temperature, no wires to it. Go back to them with this information and tel them to find another job as they suck at replacing parts, not even taking about being mechanics... Hope it helps.

The pins 11 and 22 are ground, plus/positive are the ones marked "fuse...(something)" as none of the wires would go straight do the battery "+" is fused and "batt" is negative/minus. http://www.tehnomagazin.com/Auto-radio-car-connector/CHRYSLER-Car-Radio-Wiring-Connector.htm Hope it helps.

The first thing when you turn on the radio is the sound, there is no initial setup for audio, it only resets to manufacturer settings if battery disconnected or radio removed. Try finding the mute wire and if by mistake is connected in the wrong place. Hope it helps.

Just wondering...did you keep the battery from the previous one? I'm not saying is the battery faulty but by exclusion you might find the problem. ... Hope it helps.

On my model, thw display comes on soon as the dvd ia insterted.... If nothings wrong with it, find out if your model needs a remote to turn on the screen... there is a topic about it on the forum

What diagnostic software did you use, on these models not all the softwares work. I guess by drilling the bolt you overheated the gasket and now it is blowing oil into compression chamber and not be pulled down ... Or debris got onto the piston head and blow the piston rings which now allow the oil to stay in the compression chamber... I hope I'm wrong but either way for future use, when drilling/cutting on engines, water (or any cooling that works) should be used to keep a low temperature. Keep an eye on the oil, if it drops in level is that. Not revving, might be the engine is in limp mode because the ecu detected a pressure lose. Just a theory, don't take it for granted. Hope it helps.

Hi, probably not related but on a Citroen c5 was the egr valve stuck... Hope it helps.

Scrufgp, in your case could be an inside snsor, there is one in front of the passenger side( on the pillar) and one at the back on the tailgate... If it triggers it means is set off by something obstructing the circuit. If you had a door opened, it would make a beep when locked from remote. Hope it helps.

Hi, I am assuming something is wrong in the driver side door can't exactly say what wire would be or what the fault is. Does the other one work at all? What if the remote disarm button has corroded and needs cleaning, do the other buttons work? When you say the fob works fine, you mean it unlocks and locks the doors as it should but it doesn't disarm the alarm, it that case would most likely be something wrong between the mechanical unlocking and disarming switch on the door. Did you also try resetting the remote/s. On some cars after replacing the batteries or after long time the remote hasn't been used, the remote needs repaired with the module. Depending on model it is usually done by turning the ignition into on position and playing with the arm/disarm buttons, can't say for sure the procedure, but if you find the instructions online worth trying. Also, removing the battery terminals I don't think it helps much as the alarm has a back up battery, you could try removing the central locking fuse and wait few minutes before replacing it. Hope it helps.

Hi, did you try checking the car's battery? Also it sounds like the baterry terminals are not connected properly, or a communication is lost somewhere,I would lean towards driver side door. If the car is armed and the baterry disconnected, the alarm will sound until the baterry is connected back and the key is turned into the ignition as it has a backup baterry... Starting the engine and arming/disarming the car are two different things connected between them. If the alarm fails, the car would be disarmed by the ignition key turned on, and the other way around if the alarm is not disarmed by the fob or the key into the ignition, the engine would be restricted by the alarm. I personally believe that the module does its job. On the occasions where it doesn't work, how are you getting inside the car? You don't need to reprogram the module, however if it comes with no remote/s you will have to program the existing ones. How to videos on youtube. Never took one out but it looks like is behind the dash on top of the cluster. Repeating myself I would look for a faulty wire that on ocassions shortcuts the circuit and develops the fault, generally on movable parts like the wires passage from the car to the door . Don't take it for granted, hope it helps.

Hi, has the engine bay been washed recently...the worse a car owner can do. At any occasion did the car had an heretical start? On electrics is very difficult to diagnose unless you know the most recent anomaly. I suspect water damage or over current. Either way, it doesn't have to be a wire fault, can be a bad connection, corroded terminals, or even a faulty ignition barrel. Does the engine start? Hope it helps.

Hi, mine was blocked the way that water wouldn't go through radiator, but pressure built up. Top radiator pipe was very hard and the lower one came off. On the gasket you would see oil in the expansion bottle or water in the oil. Very rearly the water would go in the combustion chamber and it will be pushed out through the exhaust, but eventually the piston rings will fail and water will go into oil. Also, what about the fan/s, when the water is above 85-90, can you hear them kick in? I would go for a thermostat. Hope it helps.

By the way, what colour is it?

Aplogies,I misread the request... It was one at Charles Trent. You have to keep an eye on their website...or they have the option where you send the request to all the scrap yards that are registered with them. You will be contacted by someone that has it. Good luck with it.

...you're in the wrong place m8...?! That's Volkswagen forum. Anyhow, Charles Trent might have it.

Just an FYI, the Delphi would not give you codes starting with P or the "traditional" way let's say, instead it gives the description. However for the full list of codes of what Qinetiq showed above, except on google, there is Autodata(mine is a "copy"). Very handy as in some areas internet is poor or missing. Hope it helps.

Hi, High pressure fuel system, including gordy's suggestion. Easy to check if the injectors are at blame, remove the return pipes from the injectors, seal the returning pipes and put the for pipes from the injectors into four cups( videos on youtube on how to), turn on the engine and leave it running for as long as the cups are half full(they should all have the same amount). This should give you a clear starting point. High pressure system can be checked by removing the pressure release valve from the fuel rail and fit an designed gauge. Hope it helps.

No, even though it is sometimes called that way, that's the exterior temperature sensor. I never done one on Grand voyagers, however on some models it is built in the heating resistor circuit board, or above the head inside the car. If you have access to a fan blower resistor for testing purposes , I'd try that. Hope it helps.

Hi, 20mm is way too much...the crank end float, depending on the manufacturer, needs around 0.3-0.5 mm( less than a mm just to clarify) and it shouldn't be noticeable with the naked eye, is used a gauge instead. There is clearly a bigger fault than that, with so much play in the crankshaft I suggest you stop driving it before it brakes the crank or the block (if not already). The oil sump pan needs to come off and inspected... Sorry for that man, I hope I'm wrong, than again I am not an expert and I might be wrong. Hope it helps.

Mine is a "copy" also, it is actually a hacked version and it works on a laptop (not necessarily but this how I use it) kept just for that with the firewall and/or antivirus off, wired or wireless network connection off and never update the version over the internet... The unit itself is not a copy only the software is. That's why is only few £££ Enjoy.

Hi, I'd say ambient temperature sensor..but don't take it for granted.

Hi Debski...well crusie control only comes up at 30/mph so if the speedo doesn't work the cruise is off too.

Hi, its a decent tool. It gave me a ABS fault on a ford transit, it showed the side and fault(I.e negative open circuit, permanent rear passenger side), I could teat them while driving... It has features like functionality test, for example on a xsara Picasso I tested the injectors and you could hear them click. Many, the only wird thing I can say about it(regarding the GV) is that it does not have a diesel option when choosing to connect with the ECU, you have to connect to all systems instead, still it gives live data and faults, for example the key remote control present or not, the list can continue, immobiliser and more. Moreover most of the cars have Delphi components in it which are compatible with this software. Example, when I was trying to get my car started, I called a nobile "mechanic" with a snapon tester...after a half an hour he replaced the fuel rayl sensor with no luck...paid the man £70 for the time wasted and ordered the Delphi (new aboutit from a friend that has one but not in the area anymore), is then when I finally got to the bottom of it, it was showing error 42(fuel level circuit open, permanent) where the snapon didn't show it, which was related to the ASD relay which eventually helped starting the car. I am happy with the results/price wise. Hope it helps.