mikebh8

It's somwhere on the side where the oil filter is. See picture in the link bellow. If I remember well, you can access it by removing the battery and the battery support otherwise from underneath. https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=chrysler+grand+voyager+2.5+crd+crankshaft+sensor+location&tbm=isch&prmd=ivsn&source=lnms&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjbrMP2orTVAhUiCMAKHc3rDaMQ_AUIBygB&biw=360&bih=560&dpr=2#imgrc=I0pJMfU0Ej6McM:

Hi, if you don't apply easy start, would evently start on its own? It sounds like crankshaft position sensor... Hope it helps.

Hi, then the easiest way would be to fit a digital antenna. http://www.halfords.com/technology/car-audio/stereo-fitting-accessories/autoleads-dab-film-antenna-smb-dab-aa1?cm_mmc=Google+PLA-_-Car+Audio-_-Stereo+Fitting+Accessories-_-338357&istCompanyId=b8708c57-7a02-4cf6-b2c0-dc36b54a327e&istItemId=apxtpxpa&istBid=tztw&_$ja=tsid:94971|cid:868555897|agid:49387676812|tid:pla-330242627417|crid:203456299599|nw:g|rnd:17043045887306992806|dvc:m|adp:1o6|loc:9045715&gclid=Cj0KCQjwh_bLBRDeARIsAH4ZYEP2e-6fMUpgbQPmu6Fe0wmDSpRhzm9rrm1ND3UW6ANgytDBoqoNDYAaAosTEALw_wcB Or for further investigation, try disconnecting the radio and check if you still get power to the antenna, then disconnect the connections you made to bypass the amplifier (if you can do it one by one and check every time the power to the antenna is even better) and see if you still have power to it. In the bellow link you should see a picture with a radio c1 socket, pin number 5 is for antenna, is that connected to a pin(from the radio) that relates to "turning the antenna on". Plus make sure the wire is positive or negative. http://www.tehnomagazin.com/Auto-radio-car-connector/CHRYSLER-Car-Radio-Wiring-Connector.htm Take a look at the link bellow, it shows an antenna amplifier with short leads, so I assume it is near the radio enclosure. http://m.ebay.ie/itm/Chrysler-Grand-Voyager-3-3-V6-PETROL-AUTO-01-07-AERIAL-ANTENNA-AMPLIFIER-/222521252306?nav=SEARCH Also check this link too, try grounding the radio, from the radio case to the body), http://www.lxforums.com/board/automotive-electronics-audio-and-video-/206743-poor-antenna-reception-aftermarket-stereo.html#post2802971 Hope it helps.

Hi, check the link bellow. Do you get power to the antenna, it should have 12v , I assume that it was getting power from the amp( not sure though). https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=chrysler+grand+voyager+2001+radio+wiring+diagram&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjR2NCVirHVAhUKCsAKHYQbAKAQ_AUICigB&biw=1576&bih=926#imgrc=_ Hope it helps.

Try scrap yards, the one that I sometimes go you can go inside the yard and pick your own part, I even smashed some door windows to see if is like in the movies...is not, is more like police interceptors when they struggle to smash one. More or led you can do whatever you want but with the parts coming out you have to pay them. It's called Charles Trent and it has two locations. Hope it helps.

I don't remember exactly and I can't go to the car now, but I guess that's the one. Turning the alarm on and touching the box you should feel the vibrations or even locate the sound. Hope it helps.

Hi, try the link bellow, I didn't download it so I'm not sure if that's what you're after. https://manuals.co/workshop/lancia/ypsilon

Hellooo, the title itself says 3rd generation up to 2000. If is a 2003 is 4th generation. Hope it helps.

Hi, when jump starting or push starting the ecu is forced to start the car, you could try to disconnect the battery over night, that's an expression few hours will do. Make sure the battery is fully charged and try that. The only problem is, on some models, that even if is a error fault (is there but is not really a fault) with the ABS would stay on until is cleared with a diagnostic software. Future use, if I may, while working on the car the battery should be disconnected. Hope it helps.

Engine off, ignition on, heavy block of something like a brick on the brake pedal. Now you can see which one is not lit. ...much safer. Hope it helps.

Behind the brake pedal is a switch, try spraying some wd40 on it. Hope it helps.

What if is a pop up clip, try pulling (you probably done that already) the bumper and while underneath see the point that is not moving. I'll try finding more info and let you know.

Oooh but it does, it makes a huge difference cruising on long trips. Just if it doesn't come factory fitted, do an aftermarket one, its a lot easier to install and you don't have to run it through the ecu.

Got you, you meant ...it does have...

Hi, I found it: P.S. I didn't like the idea of the Renault thermostat anyway. Hope it helps.

Hi, they usually fixed on underneath with plastic clips or screws, attached to the chassis or a plastic cover ( not very familiar with this model). Also, you probably have to remove the tail lights as sometimes the bumper is held by bolts. Check this video see if it helps. Hope it helps.

Hi, you need wet/dry sandpaper from...let's say from 120-200-400-600-800-1000-1200-1500-2000-4000-6000. Than you need( that's what I use...there is more out there) "glass polishing compound" for the last stage ( you can repeat the polish as many times as you wish. Don't skip any sandpaper grits, use all from the lowest, if they're not bad you can skip the 120, but I would start with that. You also need patience, if you do it by hand it will be around 5-6 hours per wheel, if you use a powered tool probably half the time ( but if you do use powered one use circular not the vibrating one), just don't rush it, cause at the end you will see scratches and you will want to start all over again. I use wet/dry the wet way, with a spraying bottle, clean water and keep spraying water at all times as you sand, every once in a while you spray on the sandpaper to remove the debris and before every grit change, spray well the wheel surface to remove the debris. Once everything is done and you can see yourself in the alloy surface, clean them well with ( again that's what I use but there is other products out there) nail polish remover and once they dry spray them with clear lacquer 3-4 times ( don't buy cheap one). You can spray them more coats...not too many though, allow each coat to dry before applying another one. Make sure, when applying the lacquer, the environment is dust free( a garage or a shed is suitable). The above process it saves around 250-300 pounds, I use the same process for headlights except the lacquer. Hope it helps.

Hi, first you need the whole kit, which includes the harness, steering wheel controls, brake and accelerator sensors, cruise control module, it might be some more but I don't remember them now. I quoted once for a different model, from scrap yards goes around £500. You could go for a universal cruise control and with a bit of improvising you can add the controls to the steering wheels. http://www.allfourx4.com.au/Cruise-Control-Kit-Auto-Pilot-Universal-12-volt-Aftermarket-AP60 As per the heated seats, look under the seats if the wiring is already there or behind the place where the buttons should be( if there is any plugs not used it could be the ones for the heating seats), if there is you need the seats, locate the fuse and find the buttons online. If there isn't you need to add to them a new circuit, if you have spare place in the fuse box use that otherwise use the rear window defrost fuse. Hope it helps.

Hi gvcamper. what do you mean with "The camshafts doesn't have pins "? if the oil cap is removed and the engine turned (by hand clockwise), through the oil filling hole, a hole in the camshaft can be seen, there is where the blocking pin goes. To block that one the alternator has to be removed, the other one is a bit tricky to get too but possible, karmannski make sure you find the right allen key, I had to weld a bolt on as I damaged it. Hope it helps.

...same with the thermostat, you have to remove the wipers' motor cover and motor as behind there is the exhaust cam shaft blocking hole. Buy the blocking kit don't mess with drill bits. Disconnect the battery, remove the starter, the crankshaft blocking hole is behind the starter. Sure you can replace the timing belt without blocking the shafts as some would say, but I found a very useful video(in Russian but you get the point from the pictures) on YouTube that to replace the belt easily, after blocking the crankshaft and the camshafts, you undo the bolts from the camshafts and to fit the new belt is like dancing in the rain. Make sure you find the torque values for each bolt before you start tightening as I broke a pulley coil thread inside the block. Before putting the cover back on, turn the engine clockwise making sure the timing is right. If you do the water pump as well, you have to remove the back cover too, in that case the camshafts' gears would have to come off. Good luck. Hope it helps.

Been there, done that. I have 5-6 "code reader" devices...none of them competely working. As I said in a previous post, a mobile mechanic came out once with a snap on tester and couldn't find an error that eventually (after I bought the delphi) got my engine started. I mentioned above that was around 100, I was looking for some old purchases on eBay and I found it, it was 55 with free delivery. Good value for the money.

The hole is for a 90 degrees connector that is hooked to a hose which goes into the expansion tank...still no wires to it.

I looked at few already fitted on...the only thing they do is to acumulate water and eventually rust under the car... I wouldn't fit them.