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mikebh8

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Everything posted by mikebh8

  1. Hi, does you're car sound more turbo than it should, the smell is usually gasses due to exhaust fault under the front seats. Also can be a loosen exhaust manifold or a broken gasket. Hope it helps.
  2. Hi, do you hear the prime pump running when key turned to on position, it is above the fuel filter and it should run for a while. On mine, I fitted a hand prime pump (it didn't have one to start with) but after running the car and turn it off, it wasn't hard, also with the engine of (mind your eyes when doing that), after a while if the pressure release valve attached to the fuel rail is pressed, there will be no pressure in it. I'm not arguing the above diagnostic but I had few cars with hand primer fitted, on all (if I rember well) the primer was soft on touch with the engine off. If you have access to a difderent car that has one, like Peugeot xsara pocasso, Citroen 5, try and see for yourself I may be wrong. Hope it helps.
  3. It does help a lot, not on the discks though, check also the caliper, push the actuating lever see if is freely moving. You have to put a certain amount of pressure, with a chisel or something similar, if it doesn't move or it moves in one direction but then it doesn't come back to initial position, qinetiq's suggestion won't work. In that case if you're confident with it, the caliper/calipers if they're both seized; need to be removed, cleaned and lubricated. Hope it helps.
  4. OK, that's more accurate test. The front ones would be on a separate switch anyway. Assuming the circuit from that relay to the Bcm is OK, try resetting the bcm by disconnecting the battery and connecting negative and positive together for at least one hour. If is just an error would clear. If that doesn't work, try (with the battery disconnected) removing the bcm connector plugs, spray them with WD40, brush them with a soft brush, leave them for 20-30 mins so the WD40 will completely dry. If that doesn't work either, the bcm is at fault, however before taking it for granted, you should identify the wire coming out from the bcm, the one that runs the day light, making sure the fault starts from there. If none of the above work, and you wish to have a cheap fix... first, do you have low beam and high beam lights? also I assume you have brake lights!? You can run the day light through the low beam circuit, I would use a relay to keep a separate circuit somehow, using the low beam lights circuit as a switch. Actually, you can use the day light's relay, you only redirect the switching input in parallel with a low beam bulb, you may have to do the same for the front ones, the only difference will be that they will come one only when you turn on the low beam lights, this will affect if you want to leave the parking lights on during the night so others can see the car being in a dark spot.. Mind that you need to sort the problem by the next MOT due date as it is a fail. Hope it helps.
  5. Hi, you didn't get any replies because the thread is in no model's forum. What car was it?
  6. Hi, if Jonnoj's advice doesn't help try to see the wires going through the door to inside the car. Alarm beeping when armed it means a door/s are open, of you have a wire or a set of wires that became faulty and they touch intermittently you will get those errors and the battery will drain. Plus the previous owner knows more than he tells, new alternator, new battery and knowing about the fuse... to me indicates the fault was inspected before, when you went see it, did you find it with the engine running? Hope it helps.
  7. Hi, is to move the steering wheel up and down. Hope it helps.
  8. Hey garethsage, I keep trying to post an answer to where the alarm module is, this is the third time, I hope you get it. It is under the dashboard behind the speedometer.
  9. My apologies, I just reread the post, apparently the wires were tested. How is everything OK if the lights are not turning on....somewhere the circuit is open, no test would give all good readings on the fuses, bulbs, wires... etc. There is a fault and at least one reading was overlooked. Were you there when the test was done? Not an expert but I suggest a second test,doesn't have to be main dealer, any auto electrician should be able to find the fault. On mine, with my tester, when the front head light was removed, I had few (2 or 3 I don't remember exactly) faults on, did you have a tester connected to the ecu?
  10. Hhmmm...do you have the reverse light/lights and/or indicators? It looks like a fault with the negative, did you try with a multimeter see if you have power coming to the wires? Each light has a separate switch, all except the fog light have a common negative (for testing porpuses can be used the car's body, however not necessarily used in a car's circuit), the fog light and the day light have a common positive. To test: multimeter on DC volts( if you don't have one, get a bulb that definitely works and two pieces of wire). With the engine off, remove taillight ,ignition on, turn day light on, touch middle pin and body, you should get battery's voltage... Hope it helps.
  11. There is actually an update for it... The only problem with the multifunctional systems, as one with Bluetooth/satnav/radio and other, when using the satnav it overrides the radio sound, or if an incoming call it turns off the satnav display( it's bad if it happens in a multi exit roundabout). I prefer have them separate and the original one as a backup.
  12. ...I was sure I replied to tgis question...anyway; it is under the dashboard behind the speedometer.
  13. Is behind the cluster( speedometer). Happy it work out the cheapest and the easiest way.
  14. For some reason I can't upload pictures anymore, I can however copy/links. Is yours like the one bellow? https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=chrysler+grand+voyager+satnav&prmd=sivn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjdg6uvtrnVAhUrBcAKHUWpAjsQ_AUIEigC&biw=360&bih=560&dpr=2#imgrc=1T6FC1mb1hretM: Unless is not the original, instead it has a newer version fitted on, could you post a picture of it?
  15. Hi, this is an old thread, however what year is the car?
  16. Hi, who told they won't work? the car ignition barrel is in the same place, I bet they will, try seeing pictures of them both. Did you try taking it off see if is an easy fix...I never took one out from your model but sometimes is just a bit cracked pastic or a broken connection. Also, before that, find some videos on how to reset it. Hope it helps.
  17. The alarm is a separate unit yours will work only with the original one unless you replace the alarm module too, or try pairing the fobs with the alarm module. Look on YouTube how to pair an extra alarm fob to the existing ones, I'm not sure but you might need the existing one.
  18. Does yours come with the small display above the DVD/radio player? Above the display, within the same unit, there is a disc hole, that is for the satnav. Hope it helps.
  19. Hi, there is a thread of mine with pipes blocked, I think I uploaded a picture too. I found that the stainless steel pipe that goes from the front of the engine to the back was glogged up with debris, only in that case, the oi was thrown out through the dipstick hole and the oil filling top camshaft hole as it wasn't circulated. That was only after 30-40 minutes with the engine running. Hope it helps.
  20. If the "new" ecu is working, the engine management light will go out, otherwise, the car won't start and then you know the ecu is not good. It is easy when you have a spare ecu, you just saved....something like 300-400 including the locks. Bear in mind you have to remove the right headlight as one bolt(10mm) is behind there. On a car model, all the ECU's with all the sensors are "paired", on the same parameters, I swapped an engine and it works without replacing the ecu. Hope it helps.
  21. Hi, was an attempt to start a "new " engine that I had it fitted, with the new ecu and totally different engine, after I left the check engine to clear out (the key dance) the only fault on the diagnostic software was the immobiliser which led me to the ASR( autoshoutdown relay), and eventually getting the engine running.However, fitting back the old ecu started the car, no problem because the replacement.
  22. I almost forgot, when I swapped mine, I lost the radio code for the satnav/DVD/ radio player. I swap it back over as was just a test, but if you have access to the code it shouldn't be a problem, or take the radio from the other car too. Hope it helps.
  23. Over the years I learned that no matter the car's age, if the engine is well looked after the power is the same as new. In your case could be piston rings, loss of compression, spark plugs (petrol only) blocked passages, etc. However, if the car has a turbo fitted, the tuning chip makes a difference otherwise don't bother. Tuning the engine...where can you stop? From ratio modified camshafts, performance clutch, bigger alternator to bigger fuel lines with bigger fuel pump and modified exhaust system. An example is the clutch and flywheel, it gives you about 10-15 BHP more but it takes away the normal driving, every time you will start from first gear you will feel like someone bumped into the back of the car, plus less performance on towing(if you do) and more weariness. The camshafts will bring more compression and higher temperature in the combustion(burning) chamber so you need more fuel( that means bigger pump and fuel lines) soon the gasket will wear, unless that is replaced too, and/or the head will fail. For some power is enough a good maintenance on it. My opinion. Hope it helps.
  24. Hi, is this the same topic that is in 4th generation, as it appears to be in the 300c section? As I said in the other one, replacing everything related to the key including the ecu it will work. When the ecu replaced, turn the ignition on for few minutes, turn it off for another few minutes, then turn the engine on for few minutes, turn the engine off for few minutes removing the key and it should work, but only if in the spare car is the same engine as yours. Hope it helps.
  25. As bignev says, you need to replace the ecu too. If the other car has two keys, yes do it, but you also need to replace the door locks. A locksmith will charge you around 90-110 plus the chip..while the spare car is free. Hope it helps.
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