mikebh8

Did you sort it out at the end?

Hi, what do you mean "project car"... ? Is it petrol?

If nothing of the above worked try the pillar switch and/or wiring and also the connections behind the plastics attached on the wheel arch. Hope it helps.

Good to know it sorted. However as they come with only two wires powering a pneumatic motor, the above solution would work for future use.

Hi, if is not broken...there is a kit to rewind it...I tried once by hand and after half an hour I gave up. ...unless someone else has another way to do it and he/they can share it would be helpful. Hope it helps.

Hi, were they the same identical with the old ones. First thing that comes in my mind is to switch the two wires between them on each one. Hope it helps.

Hi, there is no extra steps, just take off the seats, release the rear bench, push it forward, when in place push down the levers. Unless is something broken, my brother in law's had a hook bent and we struggle a little. Follow the seat/s how they go in and the bench should fal in the same spots. Hope it helps.

To be continued..I've ordered the blanks with the transponder and I'll give it a try with only the manufacturer's steps. Plus I opened one of the keys that I have and separate the key from the transponder...that with the remote fob will be installed in a key&fob (one body) soon as I receive them. Unfortunately, as previous stated, I can't upload pictures, but I'll post links and step by step instructions, if it works.

Hi, I checked on my autodata version that I have, no P1 codes ( weird but there isn't any with starting with P1), but after googling I found the fallowing: http://p1130.ecufaultcode.com/ Please see the link above, and after finally having fixed the problem, please add it so the readers will have an idea for the future. Thank you. Hope it helps.

As usual I cannot upload a picture, so I will type the information I want to share with others: To reprogram a key, it is referring to the ignition key and not to the remote fob, the fallowing must be done: Note, two programmed keys necessary using the first programmed key, switch ignition on and off within 15 secusing the second programmed key, switch ignition on and off within 15 secprogramming mode activated ( acoustic signal should be heard) proceed as fallows completing the step within 50 sec insert key to be programmed into ignition switchswitch ignition on and offwithin 10 sec single acoustic signal will be heard and immobiliser led stops flashing and illuminates for 3 seconds to indicate correct programmingrepeat complete procedure to program remaining keys ( this I'm not sure if it means from the beginning or from "inserting the key to be programmed" as I still have to try it)a maximum of 8 keys can be added.I'll add more info once I have done mine, good practice to have more spare keys. Obviously the above steps does not help if a key is lost, or the only key is lost for that matter, but once you paid 140... or more to have one, it is very useful to know this to save some money for the future. Hope it helps.

Hi, you only asked for a mechanic in your area, I am far from there but still if I may how long you have the car for, did it start after charging the battery, or did it start at all after that? Do you have the dash lighting up, can you use any of the electrics? If you have power but not cracking, try inspecting the starter, an easy fix is bang it with the handle of a hammer(or a piece of wood), if after that gives signs that it crancks the starter needs fixed/replaced. If after charging or replacing the battery started, is that you left some electrics turned on and drained the battery...on this there is more to it, you might have a fault in wiring that does it, or depending on the model, it can be that when the key is removed from the ignition, is on ACC1 but in that case takes more than few hours to drain the battery. Moreover, if the alternator is faulty, you might have run the car on battery and now is flat. Add more symptoms and someone should be able to give you a diagnostic. Hope it helps.

So, if you want a second key..well either way you don't need main dealer for this, any mobile mechanic( a decent one obviously) with a good ecu software can do this... You need a virgin chip and a new key cut to size. If you want a remote fob, you first need to know the type you need. If your car comes with powered doors the remote has 5 buttons( or 6 if it comes with the panic option, or find car option). That can be a second hand one, as long as no one added more remotes to it, you can add up to four ( some models may vary), if indeed four remotes had been paired to the module previously, a good programmer should be able to reset it, when I say programmer I mean white hat ( or black hat for that matter, or as they are called hackers), I never done it, but I spoke about it with other people. The easiest way is to buy an alarm module with two keys already, being a separate "brain" from the ecu, it should work. Hope it helps.

On my page is the fourth one from the top, 2.8 voyager newbie http://oskin.ru/pub/...erviceManuals/

To bad you're far from me, I would've sort it out in an hour... Hope you get it sort it at the end. P.S before investing in parts, make sure that's at fault, to me it sounds like a short, positive to ground or vice versa, I'm not sure on your model but for testing purposes you could swap the mechanisms between them, the front door ones, it should have the same plugs. If the one on the driveraide works on the other door is not that.

It runs through the ecu as well, it is a bit tricky to deactivate it without being fully working, even so it won't be easy. Disconnect the buzzer/s ( the horn/s) and if the ecu let's you drive it, that's a temporary fix.

Check the sound amplifier at the back of the car, very rarly but sometimes the connections become loose, same can happen behind the stereo. The worse case scenario, one of the speakers has a fault with a wire and by touching the other(or a body part if is the positive) it shorts the sound output, is a long shot as if that would be the case probably the sound won't come back on, however in some occasions the stereo resets itself and sound comes back. Anyway, first thing to do, take radio out, check if when the radio comes on the sound output sends signals. Hope it helps.

Same alarm has more options, some noises are to make the owner/driver awear of something not right, others are to make awear others that something's wrong and who ever is in or near the car needs help. I think because of the door wiring more signals are sent to the alarm module and reacts the way it does. Hope it helps.

I recently found a post with some good manuals for GVs, find it on my profile, download the one for your car, it comes with pictures and step by step instructions. If something else is there, you should be able to see it in the book.

To do the turbo and/or egr is not a cheap deal, you could remove them and clean them properly,inspect the pipes for dirt and debris, watch for play in the turbo. It is a good practice to replace them but mind the costs, plus the English say: if is not broken don't fix it. Plus faults related to turbo or egr are very notable, black smoke if they're blocked, white smoke if they leak and absorb the oil into the engine. Hope it helps.

The acceleration on idle is normal, something related to the engine's safety. Mine has the fuel filter bellow the fuel tank, is yours in the engine compartment? If the car came with a hand primer you don't have to fill the filter, you prime it afterwards. There is a topic related to throttle position sensor, see if your fault applies.

I'm not sure but one of them should be tapped off and the other should go behind the engine to a vacuum, do you have a loose hose somewhere behind the engine? look at this video and see if it matches yours: Hope it helps.

HI, @@turtlepowerdaniel posted a link very useful, I have just downloaded a version, it looks very useful, I didn't find the fuses and relay section yet but I will keep looking as it is handy to have some more info. Try the link bellow: http://oskin.ru/pub/chrysler-dodge/manuals/Service%20Manuals/ See page 1066 from 19080-rs-complete-cd..> 2012-07-05 10:06 94M

I have just checked the Autodata and the code you gave is related to boost sensor but the suggestion is wiring, you saying it is new, I assume the fault was investigated before however, try the fallowing: pin 1 and 4, with engine idling you should have 1.6V pin 1 and 4 with engine at 2500rpm, it should read 2V. The above test is to check the signal Let us know the results and we will see from there. Hope it helps.

There is a back up battery in the alarm module, try that plus if this cars don't get enough current through it will send a signal to the ecu, I started mine ( grand voyager but same concept really) by replacing the battery with a new one. Leave the positive and negative connected for a while before fitting new battery. Hope it helps.