mikebh8

Hi @@frankiep, on the other side you should have the fog light, I don't encourage you to replace it with a reverse light as the rear fog light is road requirement in many countries. I'd follow @@Andrewgrale's suggestion. What I use are the led number plate lights, just so you make sure are waterproof. Hope it helps.

An luck with the Voyager? What was the problem at the end? Sorry you have/had to sale it.

Hi, I replied to your other post as well, if you need assistance try posting it and someone should be able to help you. Good luck.

Hi, the first thing to do is to remove the ceiling slots and check for wiring, in past I did find that (for example) a car did not have electric windows but the wiring was there, second check with your stereo make and model if it comes with that option, does it say DVD on it? Plus, I am not sure, but here it comes in place the sound amplifier which is at the back of the car behind the left wheel arch cover, at least most of the models have it there. Hope it helps.

Hi Francesco, what year is your Delta? I used to like the "integrale" ('93) when I was there. Here, you will find many discussions very useful and parts are fair with the economy. Enjoy.

Hi, welcome.

Hi, the P0520 code is explained as per bellow: Engine oil pressure sensor/switch-circuit malfunction the suggested fix is: wiring, engine oil pressure sensor/switch, ECM the test is to be done as follow pin 1&3, state of the sensor disconnected, state of the engine ignition on, value of 5 volts (checking voltage supply) pin 2&3, connected, ignition on, 0.5 volts (checking signal) pin 2&3, connected, engine at idle, 2.2 volts (checking signal). If the above test turns out positive, before inspecting the ECM, I would inspect the sensor again, a good way is on the link attached. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mF0fdo04pBY Hope it helps.

Hi, is the camera factory fitted? One of the two is aftermarket and I bet the sensors stopped working and the camera was fitted instead of them being fixed, or for more accurate reverse assistance the sensors feed was used to give signal to the camera, on the other hand you do say that the warning lights are working, so it could be the buzzer, it is usually fitted where the tailgate buzzer is. I prefer camera as when I was reversing once with a grand voyager, a metal post penetrate the boot, cost me 200 to replace the tailgate. I will however, if I were you, add an extra reverse light somewhere on the bumper. Hope it helps.

Good point @@ryden, he does say he tested the fob but it worth a try. In my fob there are two. Also a trick that I learned few years back, you go away from the car as much as the remote works, then go back few steps more and when the car is in out of reach, hold the remote next to your temple pointing the car, don't ask my why but it works.

We posted in the same time, I'll let you know what that code relates too.

Also bignev's answer could apply. I was looking on the autodata fault finding, it can be oil grade and/or bearings, but with bearings I guess you will loose oil, by the way is the oil on level? You said you had the oil pump replaced, did that include the oil?! I will assume so...otherwise go for an oil and filter replacement. Hope it helps.

One door meaning the driver side door, did you try the passenger door? From inside the car it only works as central locking, it does not arm or disarm the module, when you do it from the remote instead, the module sends the signal to the central locking through the driver side locking/unlocking switch. I would inspect the wiring to the driver side door but first try the key into the passenger side.

Hi, yes I meant the oil filter, also check the link bellow for a fix. Could you do the key dance and post here what error codes you have if any....related to oil should be P0520 up to P0524. Thanks.

Hi, could you be more explanatory, try typing as bellow as you said remote don't work but as well as one button closes the doors... 1- lock full from remote 2- unlock doesn't work 3- with key opens one door or all Thanks.

Hi, if the new sensor is ok, it could be the wiring to it. If you have the right amount of oil in, it shouldn't be a problem, it will come up as an advisory at the mot. Depending on the model you have, the filter is related to the pressure, in my case was enough to replace the sensor but I heard that the filter was playing funny and was solved by replacing the washers. Hope it helps.

Hi, it is a common fault on these cars, as the wires are in "contact" with the outside temperature, over the winter when it eventually freezes outside, by use of the door, the plastic will crack. I replaced mines with 1mm insulated flat flex hoping I cured the matter( at least it is for now). same diagnostic can be found in the door/s wires passage.

Hi, the measurements are in millimetres so I doubt it won't fit, unless it comes with a plastic frame but again I doubt that. The old filter is like an accordion?, if yes the second measure it won't matter much as you push it together when inserted. Hope it helps.

I have answered the question, please re due the tests with the sensor connected. You can pinch the wires with the probes and after the test/s is done isolate the holes. Pin one is blue, pin 4 is blue/yellow

Hi, I was rechecking the fault code you posted... my apologies for not looking properly It turns out to be twice one after another in the same list of faults. So, first is ( same fault code as I already said) P0235 MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE (MAP) SENSOR A, TC SYSTEM- (cause) CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION (I can only assume it can be related to the wiring of the other one) The second time is: TURBOCHARGER (TC) BOOST PRESSURE SENSOR A/ SUPERCHARGER (SC) BOOST PRESSURE SENSOR A- CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION - WIRING TC/SC BOOST PRESSURE SENSOR Inspection is to be made with the plug in and as stated before, two tests, one at idling and one at 2500rpm and my guess is that boost sensor is sensor A in the circuit. The way I see a circuit is like the a staircase light switches, they are in parallel although in series. After a lot of investigation I found out that on a car it is not everywhere in the electric circuit 12V (nothing new as probably many already know and it is assumed so), however if a contact or a part of the circuit does not operate as it should, it can be that a sensor ( in this case yours) sends to the ecu a message, the ecu works that message ( which can be a resistance, capacitance, voltage and others) and according to that gives commands to other components in the circuit so eventually it closes or opens whatever the driver and/or the engine requires. In your case, it is only an assumption as I'm not an expert, the sensor instead of sending a figure like 1.6v back to the ecu, it only sends 0.8 or 0v, in that case the ecu takes the message as an error ( really inside the ecu are many switches that close and open as per voltage ore resistance input) and it does not send a command forward. For these models ( I have a 2.5 crd, but they are more or less the same), the injectors to open, it is needed 0.8 Volts ( not a lot isn't it). Now, if a fault occurs, the ecu acts the same as the immobiliser, it will shutdown the components trying to protect the engine or other components that are at risk. So long story short, in your case could be that when you activate the throttle position body, it sends a bit more information to the ecu and bypasses the fault turning off the fuel pump and/or injectors, which are the main parts turned off by the immobiliser. Note, "the water in fuel" on your dash... at the fuel filter casing, do you have more than one plug, if not the existing plug has more than two wires? if it doesn't have does not mean the two wires are for the same circuit, one can be the signal for the heating and the other one could be for the water in fuel... try reconnecting the plug and see if the light on the dash( well more above the dash but that's not the point) turns off. Hope it helps.

Thanks, well to remove the manifold you have to have loosened the exhaust, there are 4 bolts (10mm) and you may or may not be able to reuse the gasket, I failed to replace mine with a new one and now I can hear a slightly tuning noise. If is more than that you get gases inside the cabin. To do it from underneath, you need about 40-50 cm extension bar/s. Don't use any silicon or seals on the exhaust system and if need it replaced, for the sake of spending few pounds more just do it...in theory you will be keeping the car... Hope it helps.

Hi, you can do all the job from the top man, that if you only remove the turbo, if you however want to remove the manifold too, you have to go underneath. First remove the wipers cover and motor, battery, water tank, and all other pipes that are in your way. Hope it helps.

I don't owe a PT cruiser, however I it helps: there could be blockage of debris in there, I once found plumber's white tape inside a tiny hole and around the fred outside that connection, try flushing the system and replace the liquid( as the mechanic probably did only top up) What about the accessories belt, does your battery charge OK, you should get 14. something volts, it could be loose but you would here it. Hope it helps.

...you're right there isn't one... sad, anyway, try posting on other forums, in my case grand voyager 4th generation, explain first why you're there and I'm sure someone will give you answers. Good luck.

Hi, do you get hot wheels( by touching them soon as you stopped), they should all be the same( be careful as if they are, it is very hot). If by depressing the pedal there is no brake blocked (hot or noise coming from a wheel when driving) it is normal. Try, while driving( on a dead end road with less traffic is ideal), pressing the pedal very slowly, release the pedal and after few meters push it down suddenly, if first is softish and second time is hard it works fine. As much as you push down the pedal harden it gets but if the system is fine it should come to initial state. Hope it helps.

It's an old post...but did you sort it out? The light is ESP, a wild guess, the wheel is off angle?!