mikebh8

Welcome to the club.... Good luck.

What operation system is required by the software? I see you used on windows 8, but the suggested most preferable one? You can install a virtual machine, I use VMware 12(something, I don't remember exactly), and inside there install whatever OS is required ( iso files or installation cd required) sometimes the host will interfere with the virtual one, in that case I suggest you get a xp running device (or windows 7, if it works with), I wouldn't go for anywhere above windows 7, even if it does work, you will get hidden functions. Most of the software's are running better on windows xp, I bought a £10 second hand laptop and use it just for cars. If is an aftermarket copy, it is usually advised that firewall and any antivirus protection to be turned off, on the xp that I use there isn't and it never goes online...to avoid any conflicts from the software's updates. Plus, when your software came out just a guess, it wasn't windows 10, so the publisher never thought at making it compatible with it. I personally downgraded to windows 8.1 from an automatic upgrade to windows 10....windows 10 is not ready for generally use (my opinion), I had problems with installing even the CD printer.... it is just so they can make it more difficult. Hope it helps.

Or if you ever come down to Dorset, give me a buzz.

...I guest you have to try spending some money in this case as it doesn't appear to be available free of charge. http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=202034260114&category=126726&pm=1&ds=0&t=1505974588507&cspheader=1 You might know the version if is a complete repair manual or a general overview of the car.

I was going to suggest the bellow link...but you're in it anyway. http://www.chryslerforum.co.uk/topic/256-resetting-the-serviceoil-light-dealer-only/ You didn't get a software at the end?

This might help you. https://manuals.co/workshop/lancia/delta/lancia-delta-2011-owners-manual/5526656

I'm usually on my android..first you should click the "full view mode" at the bottom of the page, not mobile mode. Then when you are on "more reply options" you tap the paper clip button. At least this is on my phone showed.

What I am trying to say is, if something is wrong generally with a gearbox it can be spot it in the oil, there is friction and spinning inside there and most of the faults would cause debris into oil...or sounds that shouldn't come from the gearbox. You can try, if for some reason is low on oil it (check for leaks around the gearbox) could be the fix for it, but if when the oil is removed is not clean investigate further.

As you type, at the bottom of the box is "more reply options" next to "post" button, there you can attach pictures, the problem that I have is the size...maximum allowed (in my case) is 5.7 Mb, so to put new pictures I had to delete old ones on other topics. Hope it helps.

A sign of bad torque converter is dirt in the fluid, by taking some out (the dirt should sit at the bottom) you can tell 50/50 if is the torque, unfortunately is not an easy fix specially on the automatic gearboxes...

There are some models where you can rev it up, mine doesn't have the limiter but I assume his has.

The shacking when moving and slow moving from stop could be related to the torque converter and/or fluid, the other faults could be related to it also, check the fluid first, if is not clean is a sign. Hope it helps.

You're right, my apologies... I can't even explain myself how I went towards the oil.... I am dealing with some other issues and (not an excuse) in my head I probably changed the faults while I was typing. Anyway glad is sort it.

Did you loose any of the fluid?...I assume so, as bignev suggested, the air in the system works in mysterious ways, I would bleed all of them....

...white smoke is a sign of oil burned.... FYI...a diesel would start with no spark plugs connected,difficult in cold whether but would still start, the only thing they do is to eliminate the black smoke coming out of the exhaust( tested, not in the minus 5-10 degrees but the engine starts without the spark plugs) Another thing about the "glow light on the dash", it does not show when the spark plugs are worm enough to start the engine, behind it is a set of capacitors and when are fully charged will turn off the light on the dash to let the driver know when is enough power stored to crank the engine....there is no heating element that heats up the spark plugs( that was just to clear the "heating plugs" myth) If any of the spark plugs fails, would be black smoke and on first start only (within the first 10-15 seconds of the ignition). I would eliminate the glow plugs already and look elsewhere... I use cooking oil on my diesel cars and the only problem I have is, when cold whether or cold engine, white smoke and difficult to start. What I think( not an expert..) Is oil in the combustion chamber mixing with diesel, try getting an easy start spray, and before starting the engine, spray into the air intake just a bit( 2-4 seconds pressing the spray nozzle), plus check the oil level... Other, very unlikely, is water in the combustion chamber, would still bring up the white smoke but different symptoms, it won't even start. Hope it helps.

@@Andrewgrale's reply remind me one thing. This is for all the readers that don't know about it yet. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/401003593573?chn=ps&dispItem=1&adgroupid=44018332512&rlsatarget=pla-328427902528&abcId=1058846&adtype=pla&merchantid=9861194&poi=&googleloc=9045715&device=m&campaignid=863271340&crdt=0&ul_ref=http%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F710-134428-41853-0%252F2%253Fmpre%253Dhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ebay.co.uk%25252Fitm%25252Flike%25252F401003593573%25253Fchn%25253Dps%252526dispItem%25253D1%2526itemid%253D401003593573%2526targetid%253D328427902528%2526device%253Dm%2526adtype%253Dpla%2526googleloc%253D9045715%2526poi%253D%2526campaignid%253D863271340%2526adgroupid%253D44018332512%2526rlsatarget%253Dpla-328427902528%2526abcId%253D1058846%2526merchantid%253D9861194%2526gclid%253DCjwKCAjw3f3NBRBPEiwAiiHxGEKBg9alOL8KPwFKVqsEa0QDxdIVROxkK7GMMIRQebC1LGMyCM0gGxoCOGQQAvD_BwE%2526srcrot%253D710-134428-41853-0%2526rvr_id%253D1313294586973 It works 100%, I use it inside also, makes a huge difference.

I've noticed this morning, my neighbour's car was full of water on the inside of the windscreen and mine wasn't, I am just lucky I guess, however it is not normal. A quick fix, until the real problem is found and solved, is few socks full of cat litter sand under the seats. To check for where the humidity comes in through...check for any missing or loose rubber caps between the engine bay and inside the car, door trims and water leaks. I personally wouldn't be scrapping (or wiping with a cloth for that matter) the inside of the windshield. Leave the heat on for extra minutes if required. Hope it helps.

I just realize, you don't have a model in the title or description, why would I assume is a 300C I don't know, but what model do you have?!

Hi, if you still looking for the information, Paulhammond01 recently had work done on his, look for ABS/traction control topic. He will be able to tell you for sure.

On the "Unreplied topics" is someone asking the size of that but that you had loose, could reply to him please?Thank you.

When you say "altometer al right", what voltage do you get with the engine running on idle?

Glad is sort it.

...first thing is to check for negative connections, anything from the fusebox onwards towards the sensors/terminals. Oil light being the only one staying one suggests that, the oil is grounded to the engine block, all the rest go through body chassis or ECU. After work has been done, oil on the plugs' connection, poor connections, corroded pins, loose bolts/nuts....Anything related to everything connected to the negative. If you can get the key dance and post some faults would help, or even better a diagnostic software would tell where to look. Hope it helps.

Hmmm... Do the lights on the dash come on? I assume only the red oil light comes on. Any work done recently on it?