mikebh8

The immobiliser code is stored within the ECU, the SKIM only reads the data and transfers it to the ECU, I may be wrong, you can always try first without replacing the ECU and update this post if it does, in my case it didn't until I replaced the ECU as well.

Check for the turbo actuator that opens and close properly, dirt in the recirculation pipes, has the car done short trips for a long period of time? These cars are usually used on school runs, that type of driving is the worse for a diesel. You could try a turbo cleaner but if the carbon built up severely against the pipes, it may not work unless pipes are dismantled and cleaned properly.

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Hi, are you sure all the old oil was removed and the correct amount was added? It could be coincidence but it sounds like torque converter problems, it could be related to oil low level or not enough pressure built up. You don't mention the year and model so looking at a 2004, 2.8 crd, the oil specs are attached to this post. Check also for any oil leaks, loosen taps, filter, bolts ( anywhere pressure could escape from and anywhere you recently work on). Hope it helps.

Hi, if you want to use the keys you have to remove the ECU( it will be a match only if the engines are the same), the locks on all the doors along with the ignition barrel and the part that goes around the ignition barrel that is screwed bellow the steering wheel column. As per the remote, under the dash above the instrument cluster, is the central lock module, you will need that, also you can pair the remotes from the other car with existing module( I personally didn't do it yet as I was busy with other stuff), even if you replace all the above keep the removed ones, you might need them.

Hi, when it does cut out, does the lights on the dash come on, do you still have electrical power like outside lights, cuts off slowly losing power or just suddenly no pedal with quick loss of speed? Any dash lights are on while engine running?

Yes, but a safer way would be to go backwards. By all means, if is just that fuse that blows go for it, but a blown fuse means heat going through the circuit, at some point will probably cause more damage. Try with a smaller one, if is 20A required, try with a 15A, when you say aircon does that mean vents as well?

Is everything back to normal now? Don't feel anything, I bought a car to be able to swap parts and start mine, at the end was a burned relay...sometime the things get overlooked.

Yes, everything electrical on the steering wheel would go through those wires. Don't thank me yet, I may be wrong....

Fuel issues or immobilizer. When you turn the key to on position (without the cranking part), do you hear noise like a buzz coming from the prime pump? When you turn on the lights, do you get lights on the air control panel? That could be the fuse controlling the acc, do you have radio working?

No worries, good luck with the whether.

Most likely is the spring wire behind the air bag, if you are good with tools, the air bag is easy to remove (don't forget to disconnect the battery first). Once the air bag is removed, the spring is contained in a box that goes around the axle( like a donut). It can be checked. Hope it helps.

Hi, is the same car that wasn't starting on the motorway? What switch are you trying to replace, the one on the lever? That is related to the brake pedal, it is a mechanical connection made by a stainless steel wire, unless that broke there is no faults on these. Did anyone force the lever trying to take into neutral, is very difficult to brake with sensible force applied. Hope it helps.

You don't have to order a new one for now, remove the one from the fog lights (just turn on the fog lights to be 100% sure it works) and swap them, if the fog lights work with the one from the starter is not it. Also check the voltage and polarity to it, on pins 85-86 (when cranking) you should get 12v, the pins 30-87 switch the starter circuit on, if you don't get power on pins 30-87 (or either way if you don't get power to the relay at all) check the fuses, one of them (20A) is for the relay, and a couple of them are for circuits that need for starting as well, check them all. If is not it, please let me know.

Also, when it did it first time, any recent work done on it....?

Hi, I don't have a model like yours, apologizes if you thought otherwise, I just give suggestions ( sometimes they work fixing the issue/s) when I have a minute. However, please check the link bellow. You might as well check for the Autoshotdown ( it is not a one word but is easier for me) relay too while you're there ( slightly different symptoms but just to make sure). http://fusesdiagram.com/chrysler/fuse-box-diagram-chrysler-300.html How can you tell the starter is OK, please excuse my asking, is the engine cranking? What other symptoms can you tell? Hope it helps.

If the battery is fine, investigate the starter, as I recently said in a post, sometimes works if tapped with a wood stick like a hammer handle, if it does not start, check the starter relay, the one that clicks when the ignition key is turned on. Hope it helps.

Ok, the lights on the panel would come on when the day lights would be turned on, the aircon functionality would be on a separate circuit. Did you check the fuses?

Hi, I found this on a forum: 1. Have a pencil and paper handy. 2. Get in the car, close the door. Perform steps 3-7 fairly quickly (less than 3 sec's total time). (The key should not return to the OFF position through this next sequence!) 3. Turn key to 'ON' position 4. then back to 'ACC' 5. then to 'ON' 6. then back to 'ACC' 7. then to 'ON' Hope it helps.

You posted it in 4th generation but what year, model engine as may differ (probably not), but to make sure is under the right section? The software I use does not show the faults starting with P1 ( I still have to look into getting a different one), however, I do have a "test to button" option. So if you could tell me some more symptoms or noises coming from the car, would help identify. Does the engine crank? does the pump prime? If is no movement whatsoever ( but relays do make a sound), I would knock the starter motor with a wood stick.