Argee

My 2003 2.5 CRD Grand Voyager has been a little grumbly when running. I suspected auxiliary drive belt items. Today I took off the belt and removed my alternator and checked the idler and tensioner. The decoupler on the Alternator squeeks when it is 'decoupling' - so I think that needs changing (special tool purchase required for that) and the bearings probably need replacing too. The Idler bearing has gone. It runs freely but there is a lot of play and it sounds dry - so that needs replacing. The tensioner seems to be okay, but I wonder if I should replace that as it's accessible at the moment. Although some of the Alternators online are frighteningly expensive, there are some that are almost reasonable. I'm thinking that getting one of these will be cheaper and quicker than buying a decoupler, tool and replacement bearings - any thoughts? The price of the idler and tensioner seem pretty high for what they are - does anyone know of a good website/place to buy these from? Has anyone replaced the bearings in an idler or tensioner? As always, any advice gratefully received.

I wonder if it's something like a dodgy battery - or maybe a dodgy starter motor. If you have access to another vehicle and some jumper cables,hook them up next time you have the problem. If it jump starts okay then I would think battery would be a good place to start. If it doesn't start with the jump cables then it might be the starter motor. Maybe - if you can get to it - give the starter a little tap and then see if it starts. I have no doubt that others will have some good ideas for you to try. Welcome to the forum! :-)

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Andyb2000, The model of thermostat that I picked up from Andrew Page motor factors was a QH brand with the designation QTH267K - just like this one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/p/QTH267K-QH-Coolant-Thermostat-Kit-Rc493427p-OE-Quality/1233668625- but cheaper and it was on the shelf! It was for a 1992 1.1 Renault Clio. The rim has about 3 circles embossed in it. I filed down to the ring just outside the 2 sets of riveting that secures the frame that holds the spring in place. I did also drill a 2mm hole just on the outside edge of the frame that holds the wax pellet actuator - that was actually the hardest part of the whole procedure.

Photos of the lumbar seat heat pad - which was okay - and the seat base. It's pretty obvious where it burnt out.

I recently got both heated seats working having had the same issue. I was lucky enough to get hold of a couple of old front seats and carefully peeled the heater elements from them. When I did the same for my car, I found that the elements had broken in line with the lateral crease in the seat base. I was pretty careful when I peeled the heating elements off as you could end up with chunks of seat foam coming off with the element pads. I stuck the replacement elements in place with some spray adhesive, and they're working well so far! Hmmm....I might have the old elements somewhere....

Did it!! Excellent video andyb2000 thanks! I found out that the thermostat I bought was actually mis-labelled in the database and was for an earlier voyager variant. I didn't fancy waiting for 2 weeks for delivery of the ebay thermostat that andy mentioned in his youtube notes so I did a little research on similar types. I picked up a thermostat for a 1992 Renault Clio 1.1 Engine code C1E700. It was about £8. It didn't have the same housing as the one Andy used, but the disc type. I had do do a fair bit of filing to reduce the diameter. It works a treat! Thanks all for your help.

robthemuso and ryden, thanks so much for the information! I've picked up a thermostat and will hopefully get the chance to fit it this weekend! I'll follow up to let you know how it goes.

Hi everyone! I'm certain that I need to replace the thermostat on my 2003 2.5 CRD Grand Voyager, My workshop manual states that I need to replace the sealed unit (so that's what I'm expecting to do..) I went to Andrew Page motor factors and they pulled up 2 options for a replacement. One was a sealed unit thermostat for around £100 but the other was a 'naked' thermostat for about £12!! Have they made a mistake, or is there an option for me to save £88? As ever, all advice gratefully received :-)

If anyone's interested, I ordered a new stud from the main dealer. About £10. Fitted it (eventually!!) today.

I had the same problem. When the a/c is switched on, and the a/c pump clutch engages, does the engine RPM drop slightly? If not, then the pump is not pumping. I managed to find a pump at a breakers yard. It is pretty easy to fit (once you've had the system degassed). Probably 40mins work to swap it out. The old compressor just spins freely - I've not got round to having a look at its innards yet! Good luck.

That's right! The 2 seats have to go in the garage! - unless you leave them folded up and treat them as cargo.

Hi Deano1324, I think that your question was to ask if it is possible to take out the 2 captain's seats and then move the bench seat forward in their place. If that's your question, the answer is yes! I've done it a few times when I need seats for 5 and a stack load of space in the back.

Just a quickie: I need to replace a stripped wheel stud on one of my 2003 2.5 CRD GV's rear wheels. I've looked on ebay and seen replacements for around £9. Is it me, or it this a little excessive for a single stud? If it is....does anyone have a good suggestion for a supplier? Many thanks in advance.

Hi everyone! Can anyone give me a better idea where to find the G100 ground point on my 2003 2.5CRD Grand Voyager? The workshop manual says it's near the Powertrain Control Module- which (and please correct me if I'm wrong...) doesn't feature with a manual gearbox. I've got ABS problems - previously intermittent ABS light, occasional ABSing on braking without need for it. The ABS light is now on constantly. I've tested the voltage going to the ABS sensors and rather than a healthy 12V, they are only getting about 3V. I think there's a good chance that I might have a dodgy earth on the G100 ground. As always, any advice gratefully received!

Darkchild - Did you fix the problem? I had a very smokey turbo on my 2003 Grand Voyager. It took a fair number of hours but I took out the turbo, cleaned it up, sourced a refurb kit from Turborebuild (~£50) then sent the turbine and appropriate fittings off to them for a good balancing (~£50), and then refitted it! Completely solved my problems! I can thoroughly recommend Turborebuild - great and prompt service and very friendly. [email protected]

Ah...my smiley face icons have changed into question marks!

Update! Last year I finally got a 'report' from the main dealer.... On the fan issue, I was told that the air con compressor was not putting out enough pressure to trigger the ECU to activate the fans.... I still haven't sorted that out as I had other issues. The car wad putting out a lit of white smoke, and they said that it was not economical to repair. They also said that it had sn oil leak and offered to steam clean the engine to help identify the source. I decided to pay the £60 charge for steam cleaning. As it turns out, they charged me to just wipe off the bottom of the sump and didn't clean else..... I must add that they didn't charge for any of the in-depth diagnosis. When I finally got the old Smokey girl home, I started reading up and doing my own diagnoses. I found that the exhaust was really hot. That led to me discovering that the vacuum hose to the EGR valve had deteriorated. About 20p fixed that and returned the exhaust temperature to normal......but it was still smokey. Next was to get the injectors out and tested. I took them to a diesel specialists and found out that they were way out of tolerance and putting out far too much fuel... Being hopeful I splashed out around £500 for a set of refurbished and adjusted injectors. This made the engine run much more smoothly, and with a little less smoke....but still enough to provide visual cover for a battalion of infantry!! After talking to a work colleague, my next investigation was the turbo... I picked up a cheap pc boroscope and found lots of oily gunge on the intercooler side of the turbo. A couple of weekends of work produced a very oily turbo. I picked up a refurb kit for around £50 and then the same company had a rotor balance service for £50. After another weekend's work I got it all back in and....hardly any smoke!!! ? Even less as it burned off. Of course then I noticed that I had some welding to do to both rear sills... ..and....last week it passed an MoT and is now back on the road! ? Very satisfying?

Ben2808, So it is possible to get the turbo off without having to take the engine out (as the tech manual suggests?) If it's possible, then I might need to do that soon... I haven't got the kit to raise the car off the engine... or would the engine come out the top with a suitable engine lift? Immy000 - sorry to jump in on your thread. I hope you got your car sorted.

Thanks andyb2000 for the video! I think the vehicle he was working on was (not surprisingly for the US) a petrol version which has the single rad-fan relay mounted low down inside the engine compartment. My diesel has 3 separate relays mounted just below bonnet level at the right side of the engine compartment. I took my Chrysler to a dealer yesterday for them to hook up some proper diagnostics. I'll fond out the deal (and the cost!!) in a few days and let you know. I'm hoping it's something really simple that I've missed!

Update - I've put 12V across each fan, and then across them in series..... and they spin up just ad they should..... Any more clues from anyone?

Thanks for the reply AndyB2000, I have to admit that I didn't actually put 12V across the fans.... I measured the resistance across each of the coils before and after I cleaned up all the brushes and commutator and they went from up to 380 Ohms down to low single digits. I did notice that there were a couple of inductors and a capacitor next to the brushes, which I would think are to change the phase of the signal.......hmmm....that's now got me thinking.....they would surely only change the phase of an alternating current - I wonder if someone might have put the fans from a petrol variant into my diesel..... From what I've read, the petrol fans get a variable pulse width signal from the fan controller, whereas the diesel fans either run in parallel or in series as a way of changing fan speed.... Does that sound right? I think I do need to hook up 12V to them to see if they run or not. I was told that the fans should come on when the a/c is engaged to help the cooling cycle....perhaps that's not right then... I wonder if I've got a dodgy compressor. I will try to find the seat heater connectors and check them out. Many thanks for the help :-)

Thanks T14086, I've found a dealer who says that they have the right kit - all I need to do now is to try to find the time to get my car there.

Hi Everyone! Thanks in advance for your assistance. I have a 2003 2.5 CRD Grand Voyager (Why oh why did they stop making manual transmission versions??) I have had it for a while and have been living with the fact that neither the air conditioning or the seat heaters work. Regarding the air conditioning: I previously replaced the leaky heat exchanger and had the system recharged and investigated. I was told that the radiator fans should come on when the a/c is engaged but they didn't. I checked the a/c pressure transducer and all 3 of the radiator fan relays that the diesel version is blessed with but I could not find a fault and could only think that the ECU was not providing an appropriate ground signal to get the relays to function. I recently completed a pretty long drive and got stuck in traffic for a while and it was a hot day. The car started to 'pulse' at idle and I noticed that the temperature was creeping up above it's normally low value and that the exhaust had a whitish hue to it. I put the internal heater on full blast and the temp came down a little. I suppose, I shouldn't be surprised that the radiator fans did not come on when the engine was getting hot too. When I got home I did some more reading of the service manual and found out about the ignition key method to display fault codes. I got a P0403 code which means either an open or a short in the EGR solenoid circuit. With the help of the wiring diagrams, I tested the continuity from the Intelligent Power Module through to the connector that attaches to the ECU hoping to find a broken wire - but it was fine..... I also took the opportunity to recheck the Radiator fan circuit and noted that the Rad Fan electric motors had a pretty high resistance. Hoping that I had found my fault, I stripped down and overhauled the electric motors in the fans (ignoring the statements that there are no user serviceable items inside!) When I refitted the fans.......they still didn't come on..... Does it sound like I have an ECU problem? Are there any places around that can test them? I did call my local Chrysler dealership, which is a few miles away in Guildford - only to be told that they didn't have diagnostic kit for Chryslers of the age of mine!! (I wasn't too impressed by that!) I've seen a few ECUs for sale on ebay - one is the exact spec of mine. Do these need to be programmed with VIN numbers and matched to key fobs? I did stumble across an article that said that some older ECU software versions did not allow enough time for the EGR solenoid to cycle and would throw up a fault. Should I expect to see a radiator fan fault code when I do the ignition key wiggling? As if I haven't asked enough already, does anyone have a clue about the problem with the front seat heaters? Again, the circuitry seems to be fine - could that be another dodge ground signal too? All advice very gratefully received! Argee

Hi there, I have a 2003 2.5 CRD Chrysler Grand Voyager and I have an Air Conditioning Problem..... I first thought that it was just in need of a refill, so I took it to Quick Fit. Quick Fit refilled it, saying that they detected no leaks and reclaimed no gas. After that .... the A/C still didn't work so they put it back on the ramp and then told me that it had a leaky condenser. I found a cheap UV pen-light at Maplins - well, I actually bought it! - and looked at the condenser with it. There was a lot of florescence in the bottom corner of the condenser - so I went to a breakers yard and bought a replacement condenser. I assumed that the gas in my system had leaked out, so I was a little surprised that there was quite a release of pressure when I removed my original condenser - but thought that it showed that the compressor was working (I had previously checked that the compressor clutch engaged when the A/C button was pressed.) I fitted the 'new' condenser and went to a local garage that does Air Conditioning. I asked them to vacuum test the system and to refill it if it was okay.....which they did.......but they said that the system wasn't working properly as the radiator fans weren't coming on when the A/C was engaged. So....back home and, with a very useful wiring diagram, some diagnostics.... The fans are okay, but Relay 1 does not receive a 'GND' when the A/C is switched on - so the system can't go into 'fans in series' mode let alone 'fans in parallel' mode. More research led me to look at the A/C Pressure Transducer which sends a signal to the PCU to tell it to provide a ground signal that allows Relay 1 to trigger. When the pressure reaches a certain level, the fan should be triggered. After taking the plug apart and leading out some wires that I could test, I found that the A/C Pressure Transducer was being supplied with the requisite 5V and a ground, but the 'sense' output was 0.9V whether the A/C was switched on or not..... So, it seems that the sensor might be stuck. I got a quote for a replacement from the dealer ..... £144!!! :-o but was told that their Chrysler mechanic said that it was rare for these items to fail and wondered whether it was the compressor that wasn't working properly. I know that 'rare' doesn't mean that it won't happen but before another visit to the breakers yard, I thought I'd do another test..... The compressor had provided quite a high pressure as I discovered when removing the old condenser, and it does seem to put a load on the engine when engaged, but when I did a high speed drive (to do the job of the radiator fans) the system did not cool.... So now I'm a little stumped..... Can anyone give me an idea where the problem might be? Thanks in advance!