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Argee

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  1. Argee
    Before you get the thread removed - I need to do a rear crankshaft oil seal, while I'm at it I'll do the cambelt and water pump. I think my turbo oil feed pipe might need a little bit of love, I'm going to fit a recon power steering pump....and I might think about replacing the thermostat (even though I've done the secondary thermostat mod to the top pipe.)
  2. Argee
    Hi Sentech, I'm looking at removing the engine of my 2.5 CRD manual sometime soon to do some work on it and was wondering about removing the engine through the top. I was chatting to an experienced mechanic today and asked him about his thoughts on the matter. He said that by far the easiest way to get the engine out was to drain the radiator (which you'd have to do anyway) and remove it, then take the front beam of the car off. Then swing the air-con radiator out the front and use a hoist to bring the engine out the front. I don't know if there would be space to separate the engine from the transmission and take it out. Perhaps someone here knows...
  3. Argee
    I had a similar issue with my 2003 2.5 CRD a few years ago. It was actually oil leaking into the turbo. I took the turbo out from the back of the engine, which was a bit of a fiddle. I bought a turbo refurb kit for about £50 and then sent the turbine off to the same company for balancing - again about £50 and refitted it, and said goodbye to leaving clouds of white smoke behind me! Good luck!
  4. Argee
    I had an ABS light issue on mine. After about an hour with a multimeter and some long leads, testing the continuity between the ABS unit connector (under the car under the passenger seat area) and the back of the relay/fuse box under the bonnet - I found a broken connection. I spliced in a wire (with some soldering and amalgamating tape) to bypass the broken wire and it worked a treat! So it might not be the unit anyway - just a broken wire.
  5. Argee
    It is with a very heavy heart that I have come to realise that I need to part company with my beloved Chrysler Grand Voyager. 2 years ago I started preparations to replace the rear crankshaft oil seal. Unfortunately I had to divert my attention to repairing my son's and then my daughter's cars and now, when I had hoped to get back to it, I have found out that I need to move house and won't have the time to do the work. I would much rather let the car go at a very reasonable price to someone who will return it to the road - rather than sending it to be scrapped. I have the parts for the oil seal as well as a new clutch plate (which was an obvious thing to replace at the same time.) I also have a refurbed power steering pump that I was going to fit as the old one is a little noisy. It's a 2.5CRD with a manual 5-speed gearbox on a 53 plate. On a long run it gets just shy of 40mpg (why did they stop making manual gearbox versions?!) If you are interested, or you know of someone who would be, please get in touch. Either PM me or email me richjgibb at googlemail dot com
  6. Argee
    Does anyone know the correct name for the rectangular rubber and metal mount that goes in the back corners of the cradle plate, and more importantly, where to get a replacement? The one on the photo is okay. The other one looks like it wasn't put back properly by the last person who had it off and it's a bit mangled where it fits up inside the body.
  7. Argee
    Update time... I've managed to remove the cradle plate and both lower control arms today. I discovered that both bushes on the lower control arms were very tired.
  8. Argee
    Thanks Maxcaddy - I'll keep an eye out for a decent set. Touch wood, my new breaker bar is holding up!
  9. Argee
    Update on my slow progress: I managed to take out the earlier mentioned 3 bolts :-) I used a heat gun to try to free off the top steering knuckle bolts....and managed to melt the CV boot cover.... :-/ (I should've used a few layers of foil as a heat shield.) Then broke a ring spanner trying to undo them. Tried an impact screwdriver, and I think I knackered that too. Then managed to undo them with a breaker bar and a deep impact socket. Then more fun trying to shift the axle nuts!! I upgraded to using a blowtorch along with lots of WD-40, but still couldn't free them. At one point I thought I had loosened one of them - but it was my breaker bar that had given way! : I bought a bigger breaker bar and had to use an extension tube on it to get the axle nuts off - I have no idea who had put them on so tight! The next pain was trying to free the tie-rod ball joints. I had to use one of those wedge fork shaped ball joint splitters and a club hammer. The half shafts came out very easily after I drained the gearbox oil - not that that had anything to do with it! I noticed that the ABS rings were very corroded (which explains the ABS issues I've had in the past!) so I've ordered some replacements. I hadn't realised exactly what the 'cradle plate' was but have now started to take it off. One of the bolts at the back doesn't seem to have an accessible nut and the 2 bolts right at the back corners seem very tight - I retired back to the house without freeing off those 3 bolts. Oh, I did find that there was a lot of play in the rear of the left suspension control arm, so I've ordered a set of replacement bushes for both sides. More later.
  10. Argee
    umm...I'm probably misunderstanding your post....(sorry if I am)...they are just push fit and the cable end can be levered up.
  11. Argee
    I had a bit of a brainwave - I decided to look on ebay for 2.5CRD gearboxes and found the attached photo. It shows the orientation of the 3 bolts that need to be undone. From that, I had another look at the diagram. I realised that I had misidentified the 3 bolts - the diagram only shows 2 of the bolts, but if you trace the dotted line down from one of them, it splits into 2 locations. I think I'll use a length of old exhaust pipe to direct some air from a heat gun onto the bolts and then use another length on my ratchet to get a bit more torque onto the offending bolts. Another update this weekend...
  12. Argee
    Hi BumBle02, thanks for that - really good quality videos - they will be very useful.
  13. Argee
    Hi Everyone! It's early on in this project to replace the rear crankshaft oil seal on my 2003 2.5CRD Grand Voyager, and I already need some advice.... The first part of this task is to remove the manual transaxle. Taking out the battery, battery tray, disconnecting the battery temperature sensor, removing the coolant bottle bracket - easy peasy! The next part was to pop off the connectors at the ends of the two gear cables - straightforward with a large flat head screwdriver. Removing the clips from the gear change cable sleeves was a little more tricky. It was a bit of a reach, but not too bad with the aid of a pair of mole grips, some WD40 and a long flathead screw driver. The next step says to 'Remove three (3) right engine mount bracket-to-transaxle bolts'..... I'm not entirely sure which bolts they mean. I've highlighted the ones I think they mean on the attached diagram and photo. Are these the right ones? If so, I can just about get an 18mm socket on the front 2, but couldn't really get a good enough purchase on them to loosen them before I gave up for the night. I couldn't even get a socket on the rear-most bolt... I've highlighted the front 2 bolts in the photo and put dots where the rear most bolt sits - through the hole in the bracket. Are they the right bolts, and do I really have to remove the bracket? Would the gearbox drop okay if I left the bracket on? As ever, all advice gratefully received. Argee
  14. Argee
    Hi BumBle02, Thanks for the response. Mine is a manual gearbox. The oil is black and definitely not from the sump (although it could do with a new gasket.) I've had a look at the service manual for the 2.5 CRD and it looks like there are 2 seals for the crankshaft - but looking online, a lot of places seem to have a third item that looks like a ring with holes in it. Any idea what that piece is for? Have you ever done a rear crankshaft oil seal change? If so, any tips? Cheers. Argee
  15. Argee
    I had a similar problem with my 2002 2.5 CRD.......It was the turbo.... Oil was leaking in the turbo and making its way through to the exhaust. Eventually I was leaving behind a trail of white smoke. I took the turbo out. (once you remove enough, it comes out the top.) I found a company online ([email protected] ) who supplied overhaul kits and also sent the turbine to them for balancing. The balancing was £50 and the kit, I think, was less than that. Good luck!
  16. Argee
    Hi Everyone, I'm looking for some advice. I've just found a rather aggressive oil leak under my 2002 2.5CRD Grand Voyager . I've added a couple of photos to see what I found. Once I started it up, there was a regular drip about every 2 seconds from the location of a bolt head near the back left of the crank case. The bolt goes into the bell housing. After a few minutes oil started to seep out at the bell housing join too. I'm wondering if it is the crankshaft oil seal that's given up. (I seem to remember that's not an uncommon problem.) Do you think it might be something else? If it is the crankshaft oil seal, is it a fairly easy job? Has anyone done one? Is it best to do with the engine in situ, or is it best to take it out? I've recently picked up a 2nd hand engine hoist to use on another broken vehicle, but wonder if I might have to use it on my Chrysler. I suppose I'm looking for the quickest option as long as it's not too awkward to do. As ever, your advice will be very gratefully received.
  17. Argee
    These are some photos of the small coolant hose that runs to the oil cooler on my 2.5 CRD. I was quoted £100 plus by a Chrysler dealer. I found a used one on ebay. If you have to get someone to make one up, the following measurements might be of use: Inner diameter of the hose: 15mm Outer diameter of the hose: 24mm (this may have stretched a little bit) The wall thickness of the hose seems to be around 4mm Height of the U if you stand it on a table : 62mm Width of the U : about 60mm Hope this helps.
  18. Argee
    bignev, I bought one of those ebay items and fitted it last weekend. Touch wood - I'm not losing anymore coolant! :-D I'm going to attach some photos of the old pipe and give some dimensions just in case someone else needs to get one of these made up....
  19. Argee
    BigNev - I just called the very helpful folks at Pentagon. I said that you had recommended them. Apparently the part ships from Italy (presumably from VM.) I choked at the price and lost focus after the price started with the words "one hundred and..."!!! I think I might try MikeBH8's suggestion of pressure hose suppliers!
  20. Argee
    Ah ha!! I think I've found the problem! It looks like...or rather, there is a small hole in the 'u' shapes hose the comes from the oil cooler. (I'll try to attach a photo...) Does anyone know the best place to find a new piece of hose? I'll have a look through eBay later, but I'd rather use a new piece.
  21. Argee
    Hi BigNev, If I check the level of the coolant after a trip, there is pressure in the system when I remove the filler cap (which is on the left side of the car as you sit in it,) When I top up the coolant, I do it to the cold level marker which leaves quite a lot of space in the expansion tank. Am I right in thinking that, with these 'symptoms,' a filler cap fault is looking less likely? Many thanks :-)
  22. Argee
    Hi Mikebh8, Yes, rear right from the car's point of view. I don't seem to lose any coolant unless the engine is running. I'll try to run it and see if I've got a loose hose (Please let it be that!!) Many thanks :-)
  23. Argee
    Oh dear - I just realised that I typed Ooolant instead of Coolant! Silly me!!
  24. Argee
    Ladies and Gents, I have a 2003 2.5 CRD with about 141k miles on the clock and I too have been losing coolant. Last year I realised that my thermostat was stuck open and the engine was taking ages to warm up. I then fitted an extra (working) thermostat to the top hose, and life was good... A month ago I was driving on a motorway and suddenly the temperature gauge went off the scale. I pulled in at a garage and found that the coolant level was very low. I topped it up and managed to limp home. I then removed the top hose thermostat and replaced it with a new one. I tested the old one and it did seem to stick. I hoped that the new thermostat would do the trick but I found that I am now having to add about a litre of coolant after every trip :-( After a long run I found that there were signs that the coolant had leaked in the area under the rear right side of the engine. There was also a pretty even film of coolant on the back of the car. I think that the leak is external and that it gets sucked up onto the back of the car when I'm moving fast. The engine is running smoothly and there is no sign of water in the oil. The exhaust is not smokey either. Do you have any clue as to what is leaking - is it a hose? Has anyone had this problem before? As always, very grateful for any advice that you have. Cheers, Argee
  25. Argee
    Update time!! - I fixed it! After studying the circuit diagrams, I pulled the connector off of the underside of the fuse/relay box and disconnected the connector to the ABS controller. I found that one of the wires that takes a 12V supply to the ABS controller had a break in it. It had a splice somewhere between the 2 - which I thought was probably where the problem was. Of course it was somewhere in the wiring loom and I didn't have the time or inclination to get to it - so I ran a bypass wire along the route of the loom. That fixed all the error codes apart from the Front Right ABS sensor. I tested the continuity between it and the ABS connector and it was fine. I then replaced the sensor with one I had got from a breakers yard.......and once I got above 15mph......the yellow ABS light went out!! :-D
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