gordy

From another car not Chrysler or Voyager the engine cutting power on booting it was down to much crud/carbon inside the Turbo, on and around the waste gate. Sounds about right..

If your engine is cutting power on booting it then returning after reducing throttle after about 20 seconds its the Turbo actuator. P0235 like mine. Down back of engine I'm afraid or up from below.

Mind that Turbo actuator works via pressure from a short pipe from boost outlet of Turbo. Actuators seem to only sell complete with the turbo itself and if anyone can get a new one without the turbo please inform on here. There is no reason why the short rubber hose can't block up as its in a dirty enviornment so check this first.

Zo9 partly sounds crank sensor related but falls out when car happy to run ok some days. Somehow sounds like the old air in fuel problem and need to check fuel filter. As to Shandy I've still got that problem and living with it. Thought to be Turbo Actuator not working or hose pipework to it blocked. Accessibility problem here.

Can't quite believe what I'm reading here about putting sludge coolant back in, saying engine knackered, etc...And its running ok...Just overheating like blocked radiator that QintQ many a time has said using wrong coolant causes this. I take it the top coolant hoses have been bleed of all air.

There was a 2.8CRD think about 2006 advertised a fortnight ago going cheap for spares or repairs and on their fault paragraph they included a picture of a code reader with codes that the vehicle had in its memory. Actron Auto Scanner Plus CP9180. And was showing code P0765 and below it Shift Sol summit Malfunction. I say summit cos light shinning on screen hiding it.

There you go...I like Pictures..

Right below passenger footwell and not in engine bay...Heater has a metal protection cover below it.

Thermostat sticks out from rear of cylinder head on offside/right side. But inline Renault jobie available for this repair. EGR works by vacuum so suck on fitted hose to test it. Control valve for EGR on front of engine, follow small bore hoses from EGR to find it. Valve only costs about £27 so they say so might be goosed. (Think I'll order one myself). Turbo actuator is diaphragm in cylinder operated and normally attached to Turbo unit. Suck or blow to test it.

Check the Auxiliary Heater exhaust port for your coolant loss.

Skimmed if needs skimmed of course. Check with long rule/gauge its not warped or get professionally checked. May need Injector puller as there known to be seized in. Good time to overhaul injectors. Clean out EGR. Check turbo vanes and waste-gate actuator. Cambelt kit of course.

EGR is at back of engine, need to remove wiper tray to get at it. Follow the stainless pipe from under inlet manifold at front of engine, it goes around back, battery side and joins to EGR. While you are there check operation of turbo waste-gate actuator to see its working, inclusive of rubber tube-work incase of blockage. Once you are learned the job come and do mine...

Sounds like EGR problem, whether stuck open with carbon or not being initialised by control valve. Other option is turbo waste gate not operating. You not got a fault light coming up and going into limp mode/reduced power. (P0235).

Or two Spaniels are kept in a dog cage just inside the back door. Coarse its equipped with old comfy pillows for their comfort.

Have done some enquiring and best company seems to be balljointboots.co.uk. There not on fleebay so maybe that tells you they have a reputation and have returning customers. Ordered a few to suit the Voyager steering and control arm balljoints for my ready stock.

But on thinking of not having the shouldered studs, whenever you remove the wheel the disc is going to be extremely slack and coggle outwards. The problem of this is a bit rust or dirt may get down between disc and hub and hence put disc as well as wheel out of true. Think I might try a bit thin copper tube in there next time wheel is off. Or wait just remembering those spring clips/locking washers that used to be used to hold disc against hub for this particular job at one time.

Right enough old hub studs have a shoulder..Well thats both my front hubs renewed and I have never known this car to be so quite since ownership nearly 5 years ago.. Abs light was also coming on most days and that's it sorted after finding it was rubbing on the CV joint in the last hub replaced today.

Where oh where can we get real ball joint boots that last more than a year. Thats second time let down by E-bay distributers. They don't even smell of rubber. Few years back there was a company in the back pages of car mags selling real ones, but who ?

Got some picts but won't add from this Tablet. Old hub studs have shoulders yes but if you wanted you could maybe swap over the studs as they are just splinned in. But on thinking about the movement between disc and hub, 99.9% of the time you are braking while driving forward so disc will be up against the studs on the same side most of its life. Oh and another thing, keep a spare pair of control and steering arm ball joint rubbers in your stock just incase as my steering one is shoot. Shoot yet again that is as replacements are very short lived, like less than a year.

Right enough there's no unthreaded bit of stud on the studs but won't know till tomorrow when I can see old hub. Could always fit a bit real short copper tube to make the shoulder. but its going on tomorrow anyway. Look like their made in Poland.

Got 2 for about £76 of Fleebay, one been fitted and tother getting fitted tomorrow. Will take some pictures of second one if that helps.

Yes price reflexts the mileage but mines done over 200,000mls with only service parts required. Got to check that auto box is operating ok though but second hand boxes are available in 3.3 petrol disguise as has recently been found out.

Just a thought here. Seeing its a Petrol Autobox would a Petrol gearbox mount help in its installation.

Silly me to say it wouldn't fit like other cars, but you went ahead and proved something that will be helpful to others. But somehow I feel telling that to the professionals you will be branded for Witchcraft. Well that's one job sorted complete with the knowledge that 3.3 Autobox fits the 2.8CRD. To say it fits, well it does but there are minor differences which can be overcome and may please the sceptics.

Yes this issue has been on here several times and all sorted. Answer is...Can't remember. A good battery is one answer for all lights iluminated.