gordy

You've not by any chance changed a rear lamp have you..

Yes semi you put an old style thermostat inside the top coolant hose. Someone will enhance this issue. As to the cold heater, yes, there's air in that top hose that goes around the top of the cylinder head. To remove the air just find a clip on it, loosen, stick a thin screwdriver in there till air, then coolant comes out, remove screwdriver, re-secure clip and top up header tank. Be Ideal to have a vent atop that hose.

Got same problem as you but had it for about 5 years now. Difficult to get into 1st and Reverse, changing gearbox oil helped slightly. There is slight drag when pedal to floor, its like as if release bearing not getting full throw. The other idea is that Clutch fingers might be bent with age/wear or release lever bent. I'll hold on though as new clutch would see it right.

Plastic straight connector is probably the one way valve.

I've a burst hose under drivers feet of my Voyager, hose must be in body cavity. Water shows in grove around handbrake mount.

Burp Gun good for doing this job QinteQ...Battery or Air...Mind you Battery best as Air with long hose not up to it..

Yes anti roll bar bushes give a knock noise, cheap to buy and change..Oh and there is many cheap ones out there that only last a year if your lucky. Buy Jeep Chrysler ones or from reputable supplier.

Any result Reddavey...

Regarding the fail point on mine, the hole in cill is directly below the seatbelt anchor point.

Just had my rear offside sill done at the garage, about 300-400mm sill replaced from wheel well. Around £100. They mentioned that rest of sills need a bit corrosion protection on underside. Still to do that...Would like to get inside and spray oil grease mix but what with.

May I add something here after readig it....Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh F/n Helllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll....Sorry....

Well if its a Diesel the garage has got it right, obviously fuel pressure related whether injectors or bypass valve. Try a leakoff test first...well ok mybe filter letting air in...again...

Yes need shake-up on answer too this too, hope you have it sorted.

Yes wasn't completely clear on what was going on and a result would help..

Hic Burp niceee brew...Ahhhhh worst bit now after cleaning up top hat rear discs. Discs, shoes and pads were ok even though I got new ones. Adjusting these rear shoes so Handbrick works before MOT on Thursday coming.... Now I've studied the handbrake screw adjusters and how they work and its a limp wrist movement with screwdriver in the hole of the back plate to take up slack. Then check if handbrake works and how well... And no its not adjusted equal sides as I've found, offside with its longer brake cables has to come on first to make it work... Handbrake cables at mo loose as loose as I've got my 4mm drill in hold back slots... I deserve more beer for this dilemma....

Was Alternator on my Diesel that caused odd loud noise..Dry bearings was issue so kept it until bearings are at hand. Seems to be common place as have heard other voyagers with same problem...

I didn't find my pictures from last year till not long ago so thought I would add it on this thread. Was doing top hat strut bearing at the time so took pictures. As I remember it was mentioned on here that other guys don't have these elongated holes on their struts to allow for adjustment. I just replaced mine back in same position where nut had left a mark. Being drilling and tapping out a Jounce buffer 8mm stud that had sheared in today...No direct drilling due to axle dead below makes it harder...Having extra beer to console myself now....

See camber adjusting slot at bottom of strut..

Read of a Fiat Ducato misfire and Injector code was logged..Maybe wiring or Injector.

Piston Ring blowby..Need a compression test done on all the cylinders..

Ahh its a petrol could it have the fried wires down back of engine. The way its acting and past problems with this fault seem the same...

Piston Ring problem here by words of it..Severe blowby that's for sure..Would have thought Turbo seals but engine pressurising...Undertaker imminent...

Don't like this sentence "I let the fluid drain through naturally then shut nipple off". Gives me the impression air was allowed to go up the tube while fluid was slowly coming down. Then drained entire system, ouch...Then bled with kit sounds good but its not...The thing is there's an ABS controller in there and we don't want air in there. What I'm wondering is should bleeding be done with system energised/engine running/key in ignition to get the bled complete through energised ABS unit...Never heard of this theory but seems logical say Spock..Anyway bleeding required till no bubbles...

Your Cadillac Eldo becomes MOT free this May, so is it older that 1978 to comply with Classic Cars...Were DPF'S going back then...

It won't start. Does that mean its turning over but not firing. If it is its a fuel pressure fault. Like bignev says air in system, Injectors leaking too much or pressure bypass on rail...