gordy

Hi there, take it engine shut down here for testing. 5v coming into feed the sensor via power cable that's right in all scenarios. Its this 5v output from sensor at signal side that's questionable. 1 to 2 volts yes. What's the signal voltage when engine running though ?

Holed pipe, cracked pipe, use piece of rubber tube over the leak and clamp to metal with jubilee/hose clip. Hose doesn't even need to go all around tube.

The problem is the squeezing of the coil spring both taking out and putting in. Its said whether believable or not that many garages won't touch this job on Voyagers due to this issue. We did mine a few years back and as long as you have decent coil spring compressors and a rattle gun the jobs a doddle. Mind rebuild bottom of strut in same position on hub as some cars can have camber adjustment there.

Cuts out but has trouble starting...Must be fuel related then, same as on not starting from cold easily. So either a fuel injector leaking too much, or all leaking just about too much and one says I've had enough. Leakage test here required. Or cheaper alternative is might only be Pressure sensor or bypass pressure valve.

Cutting out completely and not just to limp mode is usually caused by boost pressure and the sensor. Check sensor first as it can get severely gummed up. Other place to look is turbo actuator for freeness and that it actually works.

Just a wee add on here that when my mate did the two on mine he used or added the ratchet strap method to help compress the spring.

Cutting out on booting it nothing to do with Crank Sensor. Crank sensor often doesn't leave a code when it goes as it just goes. Try the MAP which logs the boost pressure, you might just get away with cleaning it as its normally covered with carbon crud. If it doesn't cut out engine and just go into temp cut power mode, its the Turbo actuation side like operation of the gate actuator. Look for P0235 here.

Ahh there you go, selector cables no1, but not showing what secures cable end onto round pin on selector quadrant. Ah well...

Position of one way valve is: remove plastic floor plate below rear door. Wind back carpet over the well that wires and hoses run in, to offside corner post. Valve fits close on hose and is about 300mm back from post. If it still doesn't squirt its like mine, burst hose under feet in driving position.

Header tank Cap. Ughhhhhh that's what I say. Couldn't find one of the old metal type ones, only a black plastic over metal type. Fit it, tighten it, is hit and miss as plastic spins on metal. Rant Over...

From the experience of my little stand-in Panda Multijet which went off the road months ago. Repairs just getting done on the side by my mechanic friend so labour cost at a min (price must be high for this job). Access down back of engine almost zero like Voyager but worse. After starting with smoke and clearing after a mile it got to point where it smoked for miles so pulled it off road. Also had fumes in cab problem. But Voyager had repairs over winter repaired and MOT done. Driving her now...Nice warm bum returns. Found one injector with black death and another with copper seal missing (really) so decided to change all. Still smoked after injectors replaced. Time to check out EGR system and inlet manifold. Well inlet manifold is choked almost full, turbo pressure must have kept it going. EGR pipework blocked completely. Mechanic says job would be easier taking the engine out of car and doing repairs. Don't forget that the cylinder head ports get Clogged as well so its a vac out job as you scrap scrap. But saying that the little Panda has all the dogs whistles in pollution control fitments fitted (DPF+EGR+ETC) so how many more Panda's are there out there just waiting to give their owners a shock to these repairs.

Good buy take it before it vanishes. Job down for 4 hours whoever does it. So from your average garage they will be wanting about £70/hr, mine cost £450 back in 2013 without pump (seems to have not needed it). Chrysler garage £125/hr minimum, quoted £750 for job. Belt and wheels should be about £150. Add water pump here as its driven by same belt. So Labour about £280 + Parts around £150 = total £430 not far away. Your choice but its a tight working space.

Nay, Nay, Hay, Hay, I've no button at back door Dr Who said that. My rear door button is on the overhead next to toilet flush button. Emmmm….

Yesterday hey must be dreaming no buttons. Thought I was on wrong forum, I'll try again today. Hey bignev your real aint you...Is it just mine or because I've a LTD edition, but I've got buttons for side doors and back door. I'm not going out to check either its raining.

Cracking a Piston is a new one to me. Or are these not metal pistons.

You turn the wheel and if its in gear, motion goes right through gearbox and out clutch end by help of the first motion shaft. The first motion shaft is splined and has clutch plate which is also splined sliding on it. Clutch plate is clamped between two facing rings inside Clutch except when clutch pedal is depressed. Clutch housing is attached to flywheel, flywheel to crankshaft. Picture might help but this should do.

Keep a watch on that there Aux Heater exhaust hose for excessive water or coolant as mine went with near engine cooking.

Yes need to get that battery seen to and possible peracetic drain first. Some experts on here regarding upping the alternator output and drain to Audio.

Or is it just the Crank sensor that's went Puff...

I was going to say If it starts ok its not air in fuel, whether Petrol or Diesel. So does it start ok from cold. Looking too MAP for this Faltering and slow to take off.

Hic burp right enough have you tried a front wheel then. Jack up, turn wheel, in neutral it should be free. Them turn with clutch pressed and in gear, if it turns clutch plate is free and not the problem.

Big shoe Horn between underside of light and top of bumper will do the trick.

Are you sure its not in gear. Jack up a back wheel and try turning it.

That Bl**dy top hose again with air in it. Has anyone ever fitted a vent valve on it. I vent mine at green connector hose at rear of cylinder head, highest point for air in head, but top up bottle is highest point. Getting air by thermostat to top up bottle is the problem.

These heated seats a lovely on an Old Bum...