gordy

Has the usual fault with the fuel pump and car cutting out. I'm trying to get my head round this one as I was thinking of the Injection pump. But you must be talking about the filter bowl near the back axle which has the priming pump in it. So the wiring to this is goosed I take it and nothing to do with the filter letting air in.

Captain relates to Captain Chrysler who must be someone else. Dote.com relates to chryslerforum.com as other one to this and chryslerforum.co.uk as this one. Remember getting belt at School for getting things like this wrong. Got a School picture if you want to see it.

Knew it would happen...Sorry Captain...

Here bignev your telling me something new about a heated strip. Just had a look see, can't see anything, I've an LTD edition too. Bu**er better take it back and get a refund...Probably fitted wrong windscreen last time it got broken. Take note of that issue if window needs renewing they may ask, "heated or not heated sir". Come to think of it is it in wiring diagram.

I'm sure you'll be starting an is it OAT or HOAT discussion on here as dote com forum recommends HOAT coolant due to the problem people are experiencing with overheating engines due to the sludge blocking radiators. This is for Diesels of course but on further investigation I found that cars were to use HOAT up to 2010 then afterwards use OAT after flushing system. So its a use what you want thingy, renew it after an advised time of say 3 years or you will overheat. I use HOAT but its my choice.

Thought I had added these pictures of my 2003 control arm bushes, maybe somewhere else. Rear bush is side ribbed and shaped like a railway bridge roadway. Added on your post in dote com forum with what looks like them in Euro car parts. You've just missed the 30% off Halloween discount. And don't bother paying extra for earlier delivery by DHL cos it takes longer. Ordered Monday, parcel sat in Heathrow for 28hrs, now in Newcastle.

Yes no offence Mike. The thing is after you have been on here for so long and reading the faults that your car could have, or does have, you might end up with no hair after pulling it all out. Alternative that happens is they sell their car, buy another make, then in about a years time return to Voyager stables. So all I can say is your in good company here and there is very few faults that have not been remeded, remeided, remeided, on here. The Voyager is exceptional for comfort, equipment, toys even. I can't think of another car I would buy. Good choice but you need it sorted.

Got help to do one of mines today and there is a couple of adds. Was advised to fit spring compressors with load on the spring but no room up side of spring to do this way. 21mm deep socket fits the top strut nut. As too removing the nut use a hammer air gun instead of struggling with box spanner, soo much easier, especially as this nut is soo tight and probably put on same way. Now the strut to knuckle hub is adjustable for camber if thats the right word, whether wheel leans out or in. Two bolts/nuts secure the knuckle to the strut but bottom holes in strut are slotted hence camber adjustment. So try and refit knuckle to strut in same position as it came off. Per manual, strut mound is called Clevis.

It's Halloween. TV seems to be full of people dressing up this year, as dracula, ghosts, gouls, Franky Steins. My wee granson is dressed in a Pumkin suit...Oh here...some fem dressed as a red Devil in Emmerdale.

You've just bought this from Burke & Hare Motors, Old Church Wynd, Surgeons Hall, Edinburgh haven't you. I noticed it for sale in their Bereavement section, under could possibly be repaired by Frank Stein body spares shop. Sorry but must be the Time of the Year...

Yes well that's an easier one. There's a one way valve in the washer hose, under the carpet and insulation, offside/right, near the rear light where the hose heads upwards to the rear door.

Might be a hard one this as if your rear window wash is working ok its nothing to bother about until it doesn't. It's not an MOT failure but mine doesn't work. Findings so far are when you press to wash window the liquid gathers in the floor body recess below the handbrake. So there must be a split in the rubber hose below drivers feet where recess continues. Problem is how or what is the route of the hose between handbrake and pump in offside wheel well. The alternative is to run a plastic small bore tube from the pump, through the body sections to the boot area. Anyone did this repair.

Mind you it could be the EGR not closing on booting it causing week mixture and loss of boost...Need codes...Key Dance.. rumba...waltz...

AndyB did the job and has it on internet. See .com forum for site details.

Shutting down or temp limp mode thou. If its shutting down its fuel pressure related and injectors or pressure relief valve. If going to limp its turbo actuator.

Engine shutting down or just going temporarily limp. Are you diesel.

Someone has did it quite recently but can't remember who.

Happened to mine after the brakes had been worked on, but returned to normal after so many stop starts. Just make sure that your handbrake is not binding.

I'd go for a wiring fault. Injector wiring earthing somewhere.

Errrr no. Sounds like there's been bad communication to the injectors. Replacing injectors if they really need changed maybe the easy part. Finding the reason to the injectors permanently firing maybe the hardest part.

Yes I was just returning to report Q, what I filled up with last in 2013 after a bit searching for other service part numbers. I've got down Comma G05. Does that tally with Euro's numbers 523770481. Still to check that. Emmmm Euro's number refers to Red Antifreeze, that's all. Result, thanks Q, Comma G05 coming from Amazon. Free delivery too. That's that sorted then.

So far have found the site oreillyauto quite interesting in section /site/c/antifreeze. It gives a graph or the like of the car manufacturers against the differant antifreezes. Chrysler advises HOAT untill 2011 then changes it to OAT. Ford and Chrysler were into the HOAT thing. But answer might lye in another site saying; Commonly US car manufacturers have recommended flushing HOAT coolant out and replacing it with OAT. I have a feeling that I replaced my coolant in 2013 with OAT..

Should have known this was going to be a hard one. HOAT coolant, where can I buy it. I should be easy or not. Well we seem to be going with the colour, is it red, green or blue sir. I asked at Euro Car Parts today prior to putting in an order. So via giving my reg number their part number 523770481 comes up. Is this HOAT I asked. They we're sure. The last motorfactor where I got it is 70 miles away so. I think it was Comma brand. Anyone got a clear answer we can record and buy.

Yes that's it, clears it better with a picture Ryden. As too cleaning it, I cleaned mine in Diesel the last time then dried it off. However not long after it gave up the ghost. Got mine off fleebay, and using the Bosch part number it was advertised as being for another make. Price around £50. Taxi's use this engine and LDV..

Yes thats the sensor with the 4 wires atop engine. One is supply 5v. One earth. One boost pressure return. One temperature return. Must point out that Ryden's picture is a bit confusing as its showing sensor 6 as being down front of engine. Maybe different on the 2.8crd or later models though. We'll have a clearance on that one.