gordy

Mine is now 200,000 plus and pulls like a train. But saying that millage is propably not true as there's signs it was a taxi before me with a private plate. Had it 4 years now with only service items required. Everything seems to wear well and if it needs changing spares are available. Gearchange is notchy but has been over the four years. Probably needs a new clutch.

Bridging is at power side of bulbs and they use the same earth. So if lights are applied, power comes in side light contact and bridges too brake contact, hence lights put brakes lights on. Sounds silly, haven't heard of it before. As to different side light/brake light bulbs, is there, why is there.

You have the wrong bulb. Just checked my theory online with another car with same issue. Bridging contacts.

Tail same as headlights at rear. Brake uses same bulb. Have you changed a bulb at rear recently tail/brake. Check these bulbs for crossover contacts.

These are the wires and plugs to your 2003 rear lights.

Many newish cars like the Nissan Juke are being hauled into garages for loss of power, not starting, etc. What's found, fuel filter blocked. Oh but it was serviced recently. Yes you got it, fuel filters don't come into the servicing agenda. Spark plugs as well funny enough. So your fuel filter is a possibility and has been in occasions. But if air is getting in its lively to be hard to start first thing. So after these checks you maybe onto checking injector fuel spill rates. Hesitation did you say, high speed cut outs, but usually accompanied by rough running, means crank angle sensor. But do fuel first.

So engine shuts down, no codes, no limp light. Looks like your going into a fuel pressure issue.

Codes relate to boost pressure. So if the sensor is getting old or choked up it sends an out of sync message to ECU relating to boost and engine is shut down. Happened to mine as well and sensor cured it, part way that is. If instead of engine totally cutting out and just going into limp mode, power cut, I would go for Turbo Actuator as of it not operating waste gate and causing over boost. Maybe just seized Wastegate or blocked hose to actuator. Sensor is easy option.

Hi Phil good to here from you.

I'm sure this will be looked after.

Sounds good.

Might be just a solenoid or relay or lack of fluid.. check forum on these codes.

Good idea...

McGard tool sounds interesting thingy. I'm thinking garage have been doing a hammer action on your nuts...

Did they get it off.

Good buy !

Unanswered answered now Help. Hows that.

Boost temp sensor to blame. You should have code P0235/7 or abouts on key dance at ignition switch. (emm wait for it).

By Chrysler it is officially a Four hour job. But they are about £120+ per hour. Back in 2013 they were charging £750 for the job.

Just checked flee-bay last night and there's surprisingly more cambelt kits with coolant pump available for under £150. Even timing tool kits below £25. Also checkout the auxilliary belt wheels on doing the job as there a pain to get too. Left hand thread on the bolt of course.

Go for LTD edition. Has cambelt been renewed and when. Is engine noisy. Knocks from underneath. Odd fault lights up on dash. MOT advisories to check.

Chain Camshaft drive, its not surprising as the amount of times I've seen Voyagers advertised with Merc 2.8 diesel engines. Think the Merc was actually 2.9.

My fuel filter was renewed today and I thought bleeding the air out at the bleed valve where you have your hose fitted would be required. But all we did was prime the system several times with the ignition key and it started and ran ok. Noisy engine has been rectified as well but that's another story.

Was a Lemforder mount that went on mine. Key to slackening the top strut mount and refitting it is an Air Gun and long reach socket. This way the nut turns to quick for the damper rod to follow.

Ahhh had a part no for the wiring kit but it's on other thread. Plead Diminished responsibility..