gordy

Glad you've got it sorted..I feel like having another beer...

To get this straight where are you locking the crankshaft about, Is it through a hole in block casing at back of starter and into the flywheel. TDC position to certify this.

Not clear on this issue if running systems like Injectors, injection pump and any sensors need married to the ECU. It's just that if you change an injector on some cars you need to record the injectors info into the ECU or the engine will not start. But there are cases where the ECU learns on its own.

Ah new replacement bushes, there's something without having to buy the complete shocks. Someone on here a year or so ago solved that issue as to where to get them. And come-on Andy I'm waiting to toast its the flexiplate with a few beers..Hic..Burp..Belch...

At the moment I've never looked into the ventilation of this engine. But from previous engines there is a oil/fumes seperator attached to the block then a hose going from there into the air intake manifold before the Turbo.

Need to check the crankcase ventilation system sounds like its blocked.

Diesel to Diesel yes but Petrol to Diesel no as Bellhousing will be different...

Just a thought on work around gearbox. Has the earth strap been refitted...

As with all coolant systems any air in the system is going to go/end up in the highest pipe or hose. So looking at your engine which is same as mine, the highest pipe and hose is the one between thermostat and radiator. So pick the short hose at rear of engine on this line, slacken one clip off and slip back the clip off the hose. Then with a blunt small screwdriver or knitting needle, prize it under the hose till it reaches the coolant void. After air hisses out and coolant seeps out refit the clip and secure, bleeding done. Mind top up the header tank as it will go down.

Did the thermostat open and let the hot coolant through to the radiator. Did you bleed the air out of the coolant system.

Well you were in the right faze of mind there. These 2 sensors will let engine start, not let it start or shut engine down. But for the 2 sensors to work how they should, they should have the correct voltage going into them so they can output the required voltage to the ECU for engine to be allowed to start. The crank one may not be powered though. So what I am coming to, is, Battery output. Is your battery good, quite new, how old. As its not just these cars that need a good battery to satisfy the starting parameters... Somehow it doesn't sound fuel pressure related, but just might be.

Hi I can't find it either probably because it wasn't threaded under EGR. There are quite a few pipes on Fleebay for you...

Alanc on the other chryslerforum.com have an issue of his being split, think he got a replacement of Fleebay...

Front cable below. AWD Voyager is 4683 285AD FWD Voyager is 4721 420AB.

There's a front cable from Handbrake to fulcrum. Short cable from fulcrum to right side, connected to another cable to rear drum. From fulcrum there's only one cable to left side drum. Brake cable RH ADA104609 Blue print 108 83 0100 Brake cable LH ADA 104608 Blue print 108 83 0090 Intermediate cable Quinton Hazel BC3631 (4683 496AB) ditto Motorworld EAN 5016593853980 LH Cable 1692mm FKB 3178 RH Cable 1291mm FKB 3507 Intermediate 1381mm FKB2469

Front one from handbrake to first junction below front passenger seat is short right enough.

Fuel rail has pressure sensor and bypass valve on it which either would cause your problems.

Is that really the size of the hole 10mm. That's around 3/8". You'll be weakening the mixture on booting it I would think.

This fault has been on here before so check back the threads. Its probably a protection to your autobox if fluid is low or needs changed.

2.5 CRD certainly not sluggish. Had the use of a new Volvo V70 2.0D over 2007/2008, seats were hard as boards and didn't pull and better than my 2.5CRD. That was a 139bhp one too.

You'll need to give more info on Car..

Interesting one this and hopefully find an interesting answer. Doesn't start sometimes, other times it starts ok and then performs its function. Maybe the RAC approved garage found an answer but it wasn't the actual EGR valve, does this EGR have wires to it and electronics. Is this a wiring fault problem. Doesn't sound like Fuel related as of air in fuel but maybe has more than one fault. Was thinking of a sensor fault where crank sensor would shut engine down and not leave fault code but it runs ok at times for many miles. Then there's the Boost/temp sensor, shut down yes, leave code, well sometimes. If it goes into limp mode on booting it code P0235 or likes is left. But noticed on mine when boost sensor totally lost it and shut down happened there was no code, as like crank sensor. But that EGR system needs checked and wiring verified.

Its more like a sad day that A garage can't get it running and their answer even though they have not found one is they think Timing belt has moved. How many times have I heard these garage answers from my mechanic near me. He gets cars offered to him cheap from garages that can't get the engines running even though they have the sophisticated equipment. One car that wouldn't start had the quick click fuel hose connected at filter not fully on, hence air getting in. Air getting in at filters seems to be a problem to garages. Then there's the blocked internal manifolds due to the black gunge from the EGR. Probably started off with rich running and smoke. His recent acquisition, lovely little Peugeot used by a garage for tottering about in. They cooked the engine, yes needs a replacement engine and yes this was a garage. So what was Woodie's car problem, not starting. What could cause this. Think we have been through answers to this many a time on here, like injector leaks, fuel rail bypass valve, even sensor. Ah how about the Hammer House of Horror, "Air In The Fuel", due to filter, seals or prim pump. Sorry just getting it off my back, ah that's better.

My Voyager 2003 2.5CRD is just push back with no leaking off fluid via bleed nipple on doing so. Rears are the same. Oh and a wee extra, check the hub for noisy and loose bearing as they seem to can travel some distance rumbling away before destruction. The noise maybe put down as the type of tyre used.

What problem has your car got and what car have you got.