Penguin2007

Quite an interesting touch .... The have put the mandatory 'this mileage cannot be verified' onto the odometer glass cover! Wonder if they are scraping the car? If so, wonder if they will take offers for other parts. Penguin

Oil should be runny and off brown. When was last fluids service? Check service history in handbook?? Black indicates carbon deposits being put into oil. Thick black would make me a little worried. mpg - depends very much on how you drive .... but .... https://www.carkeys.co.uk/review-archive/chrysler-grand-voyager-2-8-crd-executive-xs say about .... the best the trip computer showed was 29.1mpg (real life driving by the looks of it) http://www.parkers.co.uk/cars/reviews/facts-and-figures/chrysler/grand-voyager/estate-2001/36929/ say about ........ 33mpg (probably the hypothetical value that all companies use) Feels like you should have it back to the seller and get him to give it a once over .... Service? Sale of goods - fit for purpose.... etc etc etc etc Penguin

Type of rattle noise would help... Both sides? Metallic? Hot or cold rattle? Engine cold could be exhaust manifold? If it reduces when hot... Just a couple of loose bolts??? or is it lower down? Exhaust tubes catching on body work? Had a rattle in my little Uno years ago - was a stone inside the hub cap.... A bit more information would be useful.... Penguin along with his large magnifying glass

Try a local auto-factor / stockist, they may order them in for you if they don't carry them. Only item that my auto factor has not come up trumps on, is the paint to code purchase. Be aware that if the lamp back is plastic- it will not be upgradeable to halogens etc as they give off too much heat, and will melt the plastic! Peguin

If you have the code (bonnet near catch - mine is on the bonnet not in place as stated by Mr Manual), any auto factor will be able to supply. Mr H tends to charge at over priced prices. Penguin

Have the discs a rim of rust? Penguin

hi Glen One may need the use of the 'Trading Standards' book of words here. If they merely clean up a connection, it would not be construed as a 'change of parts' or is it? If they have put on a new connector, this is a change of the original wiring - and would be classed as a new part. (According to the man with the pint in the pub chat from TS). So, it may be worth re-asking them as to what they had completed in the previous repair. It should state clearly on the job ticket, if its a main dealer (or Garageman of repute). You state Chrysler Hailsham. A garage would normally give you some time limit on your repair ticket also - again check paperwork. Good luck! Penguin

Hi Dal I would have hoped that the previous conscientious owner would have given you a full service history and all the paper work. ISTR that most cam belts should be done after 5 years (hence 2012) or 72k miles. A good rummage through the paperwork maybe in good order. If it is a private buy, the seller may give you 'hints' etc If from a dealer it could be a negotiation in the price, if you have not committed? Penguin

Mmmm Good one Richard Cracked wire? Behind the door card job - as oft stated .... pain in the door card Dirty contacts? Behind the door card job - as oft stated .... pain in the door card Iffy fuse? = change & see (with a known working fuse) - bonnet / drivers side knee box (unsure of where your fusebox is) - broken finger nails and much cussing and puffing Continuity testing via ECB download - could be done at your local garage man shop.... Or the good old AVO resistance meter Penguin

Hi Stuart No council run MOT stations in Northamptonshire - probably a sell off with the last (conservative) run county council. I had my MOT done at the selling dealer, commenting on the fact that any major repairs (if any) would be done by the Chrysler warrantee. No black smoke from the Office and drove the car away an hour & the printing time later. What annoys me, is that they can charge you £60 (ablate via a 'free MOT voucher'), whereas the local garage down the road charges £30. I thought that all MOTs were supposed to be the same price (within the categories) etc Yet another method of milking the motorist for the pocket full of ever decreasing bank notes. I will not be, therefore, using the facility next time around. I also like the 20K servicing! At least I did not have to pay for an expensive dealer service - and its the short service next time round - hopefully a cheaper option. Lets me fill my piggy bank up for the big one, at my privateer garage down the road. :-) We did have hail stones last week - but no real snow since start of february.

Don't think so - my Blue & Me disc is logged to the car IIRC Has a 'keycode' for the unit Penguin

Refer to: http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php/248892-Rear-Fog-Lights Penguin

Hi DAve The worlds best manual is probably 'Google' "2005 grand voyager fuses" There are several different fuse box shapes and only you can check against the images supplied. In previous cars - dipped lights & rear lights work on opposite corners for safety reasons. - a get you home service! Number plate lamps are a entity in their own right - probably on one of the rear light services. Penguin

My logic in the replacement of all four, was the different tread and therefore grip levels. It was also a good move, in that one of the tyres had been punctured and plug repaired. At least I now have the confidence that all four boots i) grip the same, ii) have no hidden treasures & iii) they look better on the car. I hope that someone will discover my rim on the forum and return it to me - however, if it was a puncture in a car pool (mine is from the WN pool that went out in May / June 2012 to discerning motorists) it may have been a damaged rim. I don't have a Mickey Mouse spare, only a gel and hope that I will never ever have to use it. Apparently they mess the rims up and as I am in a 'drive you home' under any circumstances rescue policy with Mondial, hopefully I won't have to risk it. Its interesting that gels are not used in rally cars - for which they were first invented. Penguin

Engine mounts and gearbox mounts are usually cast iron? Photo 1 is / appears as a cast unit. Photo 2 appears as a weld Penguin

Have no problem with the Mrs at Selfridges - ex now of 7 years plus! What mileage have you on your car Nello? My discs have a bit of the 'rust rim' but appear like new - 20k miles and hopefully will last a few more miles. I thought that the down pipes were a bit noisy, and asthmatic - but the car came back with the 'fault solved' - probably just a tighten up on the down pipes from the engine. No faults on advisory - clean bill of health. Will revert to my local Man in his Garage for the next one, I had a 'free' MOT with the garage that I bought from. Won't be back to pay main / dealer prices next year! I put a complete set of new boots on, earlier in the winter - three rims from my car and an odd one from a second car - interestingly enough I had three different tyres on three rims, with the fourth rim having had puncture repair. Hopefully 12 months of hassle free driving and the 20K service next time round. She looks really cool at the moment - having had a really good wash and brush up, black plastic mopped up with car plan blacker .... Only thing that I'm annoyed with, is the lip of the front edge of roof above the windscreen - complete wsh & brush up, to return home with the first mossy bodies of the year, encrusting the gap! Looks naff on the white paint job. Stuart - where do i find the council MOT station? Are you in England? or Scotland? Rosso - is yours a petrol or diesel? Penguin

Hi Fellow Drivers Hand on heart yesterday, Wednesday, as the Delta went off for the MOT. Have not covered the distance for a service, so just put an injector cleaner in, with less than half a tank of diesel, to clean any contamination on them. Passed with no problems [ - compared to Bravo that had a brake disc (outside rim prominent on the fronts - put down to soft cast discs by FIAT)]. Hopefully twelve months of none stress free driving. Penguin

Purred past me at 70 (just plus mph) on the M42 @ Cadbury worls exit on M42. Deep blue in colour - nearly missed it as a silly Pug 105 tried to do an inner city route overtake. Chris

Hi Paulook Any (shaken / stirred / whizzed) water in any oil = emulsion.... Try To olive oil (or any variant in the kitchen) add some water and blitz with a (hand / machine) whisk. = emulsion.... -> Salad cream (if you use vinegar, and eggs as well), stabilisers are used in commercial products. Cooling Don't know about the major details of oil pump cooling, but as it is contained in the engine, heat must radiate from the working oil through the engine casing, sump and oil filter. As well as the cooling effects of the water jacket around the engine as well. Just a point of info ... is the engine oil coming out of the dip stick hole? or the engine filler hole? If so, it could it be over filled? to find oil coming from my overflow tank on my rad is probably as first diagnosed P

This is possibly condensate that it dripping from the condenser off the air con unit. Try to get a couple of drips on your finger and it should feel like 'ordinary water' and be colourless. It may have a very thin film of oil - due to contamination from the bottom of the car. P

Classic blown cylinder head gasket symptoms Penguin

Hi Johned There are downloads available from a 'google' search. (other search engines available) However: The disc is tagged to the car - with a code. On a search for my disc - it is a CF card - the costs, are about £150 from the internet. You physically need the disc and the code to get it to work. It maybe worthwhile going back to seller and stating that the disc is useless in any other car than the one purchased. Penguin

Without much more details my analysis would be: clunk / no turn = flat battery = alternator dirty connections, brushes coated with road fill? brushes worn out? turn slowly = some charge - Has it been running before this phase??? Warm starter motors have less resistance and better starting characteristics than cold ones. turn and start = battery charged Car has just been running well? Date check the battery MM/YY = month / year code > 05/09 = May 2009 Batteries last about 4 years tops, if treated carefully. Can be much much less if the car has been treated as a multistep, short distance car. Wet top up battery - check levels High resistance voltmeter meter across terminals when running should give you 14V plus No volt meter? Look at red battery (turn key one click - it illuminates) and see if it goes out when car starts. Hope half a spoonful of help enables you to do a bit of detective work. NEVER check for a charged battery by connecting any conductor from the live to negative terminals. Not only will you receive severe burns, but the battery may explode. Penguin

I think that this is merely the levels for the steering wheel. There is a lot of computer code and electronics that are behind the stalks. One fears that this is nota simple retro fit. It difficult enough changing the full stalk on a delta, with the umpteen miles of wires, clips and switch connections. IMHO - I don't think so But someone out there may know more. Pengin - on cruise control

Have seen a 'cherry red 300C' sprinting off the Halford Island in Kettering , yesterday, at tea time First view up close - thought it was a Rolls, but then there is only one Gaff in the area that has a RR Phantom - the Earl Of Bucky... Penguin