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Okay I’ve sorted it myself. Unbelievably it was a Bluetooth unit plugged into the cigarette lighter beside the ashtray, remember them. Spent hours running through what had been replaced that may affect the TPMS display and other associated features and finally came down to what I thought was madder than a bucket of frogs! A new BT unit for the phone. Removed it and instantly all the dash fault lights went out and as long as I don’t have it plugged in all is fine. Oh well, back to the earbuds I suppose.

Hi to the very few people who come here! Our Voyager has finally had enough, and went for parts to a lovely chap last week! I wish him well, and good luck, he'll need it! Cheers guys!!

Hi. Brand new to this site. Bought a black 1.6 diesel Delta Momo Design a couple of weeks ago. The previous owner switched external badges to Lancia. Other than that, the car is de-badged, i.e. the Delta S sticker has been removed. Loving the car and how it looks. Two things I could do with some advice on: one is a knocking sound on start up. I've read that's normal. Any thoughts? The other is the SD. Sat nav thinks I'm in Yorkshire and just can't seem to put it right. Don't really want yo plug my portable satnav in.

Thank journey Richard M. I have sorted it no problem with the code . Thanks

No need to worry (assuming the radio is standard GV), the radio is hard coded to the vehicle - disconnect away. If you've had this from new and have never flattened the battery or had to disconect it to sort out the electrics then you have a rare beast.

Be, sorry about the slight delay (approx 3120 days) but have been quite busy lately. Notice you were in Taipei when you replied to Penguin.., was in Taipei and Taichung 1984 (ish) - loved the place, loved the people - never learnt the language though. Anyway, this is to offer my help as an apprentice moderator if the post is still vacant ! Regards Richard

Blending dampers. Nope, no idea how to fix that!

Managed to give it a good clean as my Mrs never does! Obviously, it rained immediately afterwards!!

Thanks for the bad news Nev , I'm in the same situation, been bodging for 7 years , now not much but rust left, had a look underneath just before the MOT and had to cut off all the U clamps cus they were just rattling about and not needed cus it's so badly rusted up. I've got an idea I might buy the standard system and cut it up to repair the one I have, mine doesn't look too bad after the middle silencer. I've had similar issues with the water pump and also stuck radweld in just before Xmas , it's not needed any water since

Central locking back working too !

Problem now sorted hopefully... Before I go into details, I would like to quote the old saying 'buy cheap, buy twice, buy thrice' as all brake pads are not equal & all brake pads do not fit as properly as OEM pads....especially if they are produced in China for the EU. My problem was brake knock/rattle over bumpy roads at low speed & it was indeed the pads. It wasn't the height of the pads that was the problem (183.4 mm), it was the width of the pad ears. The pad ears on cheap pads are not wide enough, hence they rock back & forth, which causes a clunk/rattle on rough ground which goes away when you apply the brakes. I bought some NAPA 'proformer' pads & they have ears that are (and I've measured them with a micrometer) 0.9mm wider, which pushes into the caliper clips alot tighter, thus stopping them rocking back & forth and preventing the brake pad from rattling....at last I'm a happy 300C driver

Hiya there! I have the same situation, same car, nothing in the UK. So either one of the stainless steel make one on the car companies, or a fortune from the States. Yep. I've carried on bodging it so far!!

I will answer myself if someone should have similar problems: The case is solved. Its not easy to find a wiring diagram for the 2.8 diesel but at last I found one. The three pins on the alternator stands for Dummy-LIN-Dummy so only the "LIN" should be connected. According to the wiring diagram there should be a wire between ECM pin #93 and the LIN connections with white/orange. Found the cable by the ECM but the other end is impossible to find if i dont remove a lot of things. Cut the wire and made a new cable to the alternator and works perfect!

I know it's a bit late but here's a solution. If like myself you have AlfaOBD and an OBDLink sx you can read the steering angle sensor and see if it's in the right position. If it's not in the right position (0.00 at the straightest position) the the ABS/SRS/ESC won't work. I found mine had been messed with so I found no harm in trying to centre it myself while the new sensor was on the way (eBay btw). first start with the wheels straight ahead then remove the steering wheel (Not easy) then with alfaobd reading the angle sensor I removed the centre clock spring box (DO NOT OPEN, It'll jump out at you and you will never get it all back in), then I moved the gears/cogs until it read 0.00 and replaced the box. If like me you notice alfaobd jump the angle to something other than 0.00 then you'll have to do it again. when it is at 0.00 or near enough to it (I think 0.50 or -0.50) then you are good to go and replace it all, clear the steering codes that'll be in the system and go for a test drive. I recommend when putting the nut that holds the steering wheel on you use some loctite an make sure the bolt is tight, be careful when removing anything and put all the wiring back as it came off, charge the battery while doing this as it may take quite a while and if you can't do it I really recommend taking a break and trying to set it differently. As I found out I needed to set the angle to +9.00 because alfaobd reported it being -18.00 once I put the box back in, this solved the problem and read +0.50 when replaced. One last thing, if the ESC light comes up and brakes for you on one side of the vehicle (Thinking you are turning while accelerating over 20mph) then you need to do it again, as you can see it is very trial and error and I would recommend replacing the whole steering angle sensor/clock spring to avoid this issue, I only did this myself because I have immeasurable patience when it comes to stuff like this and I didn't want to pay £300/400 for the whole assembly when I can look and see if I can fix it. Lastly, it really might be worth it to get the assembly and fit from new because of the issues ahead but also because if you have any hair left after replacing just the clock spring and not the angle sensor (I suspect the sensor has become unplugged if alfaobd just says 0.00 at any angle) then you will certainly have less than when you started.

Sorry but would suggest ECU has been electrocuted! - There is a feed to this that does not go via the ign switch i.e. live all the time.