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Afternoon all. I thought I would share a bit of a story that happened to me this weekend, in the hope that it will help some others if the same thing happens to them. The model it concerns is any 300C with the Mercedes 3 litre V6 diesel. I'm guessing the newer models with the VM diesel will be totally different. So there we are, on the way to Wakefield from Essex where we live, merrily trotting along the motorway. All of a sudden the dashboard starts to chime repeatedly (as if i've left the headlights on and got out), the engine cuts out completely, and on the dashboard are the engine management light, and the red lightening bolt, with a reverse bracket either side (see attached photo). We coast to a stop onto the hard shoulder, and i try to restart the car. It turns over and over, but refuses to fire up. The missus gets on the phone to the RAC, and we're told there's roughly a two hour wait, so this gives me a bit of time to do some Googling before the patrol arrives. Now then, if you refer to the handbook, it clearly states (even in the diesel supplement) that the lightening bolt light indicates there is a fault with the "Electronic Throttle Control". This is utter nonsense. As it turns out, on the diesel models only, this light refers to a fault with either the Swirl Flap Motor, or the Turbo Actuator. Annoyingly this isnt listed in any of the handbooks that come with the car. Poor show Chrysler! Whenever you turn the ignition on in the car, you can see the arm of the turbo actuator raise up. So if this is the problem, then its very easy to diagnose. I tried this little test, and sure enough, the turbo actuator arm wasn't popping up when my wife turned the ignition on, so naturally I thought this was the problem. Sadly I was wrong. What had happened to my car was this.... Over time, the seal around the air intake on the front of the turbo degrades. This allows a small amount of oil to drip onto the swirl flap motor, which is situated directly below. (very poor design). This oil had eventually seeped inside the motor, causing it to short out. This short had instantly popped fuse number 15 under the bonnet, which in turn had caused the engine to shut down while doing 70mph to protect itself. I didn't have the handbook in the car with me sadly, so searching on the internet just have me fuse diagrams of the petrol models, which on those shows its for the injectors. Again as it turns out, fuse 15 in the front fuse box does completely different things on the diesel models. It protects the following.... A/C Clutch, A/C Pressure regulator, Crankcase Vent Heater, EGR Valve, Engine Control Module, Fuel Pump, Glow Plug Module, Swirl Flap Motor, Oxygen sensors.. So I replaced the blown fuse with a spare 20 amp, and the car fired straight up. It was now in limp mode, and showing the EML and Lightening light, but it was drive-able up to about 80 mph, albeit a bit slow getting there. By this time, the RAC man had arrived. Now there is nothing worse that someone interfering when a pro is at work, so when he arrived, I left him to it, and he plugged the diagnostics in, and it threw up a ton of errors all related to things connected to this fuse. All except the swirl flap motor. He was a bit confused at first, but then I mentioned that I think it might be the swirl flap motor. He hooked up all his testing gear to it, ran a load of tests, and sure enough confirmed to me that the motor was dead. He then cleared the ECU codes, started the car, and only then did it throw up a specific Swirl Flap related error. HE gave me some spare fuses, and after a quick road test, we were on our merry way albeit in limp mode. Now to fixing it. The cheapest place I could find to supply and fit a new motor quoted £575 plus VAT. The motor is just over £100, but the labour involved is a joke. Anything that is situated inside the VEE of the engine (Swirl Flap Motor, Oil Cooler) etc needs major open heart surgery to fix it. Annoyingly both the motor and the cooler seals have known faults, so they couldn't be in a worse place! If you fancy forking out all that money to have the motor replaced, then that is no doubt the best way in the long run, however there is a quick fix for £1.99 and YES it does work perfectly. Get yourself some 4K7 resistors off of ebay, they are £1.99 for 50. Remove the engine cover, then remove the intake pipe that runs from the airbox to the front of the turbo. Right below the turbo, you will see a black box. This is the offending motor. On the right of the motor is a multi plug held in with a grey clip. Remove the metal bracket above the plug, and pop the plug off. Grab a resistor, and bend the legs in such a way that they will fit snugly into the two centre holes in the plug. Theres 4 in total. Once you have put the resistor in, and you can confirm its in there properly. Tape it up with electrical tape so the resistor wont fall out. Replace the metal bracket, and the air intake pipe, leaving the plug sticking up so you can get to it again in the future if you need to. Then start up the car, and stand back in amazement as both the engine management light and the lightening bolt lights extinguish, and the car comes back out of limp mode. Take the car for a drive, and you will see that it drives as good as new. What you have done here, is fool the car into thinking the swirl flap motor is working again. WHen in fact its now disconnected. You shouldnt notice any difference in performance or fuel economy at all. The emissions may be up slightly when cold is all. So to summarise, if your car cuts out with the lightening bolt on. 1) Coast to a stop 2) Curse, swear, have a fag, but don't despair 3) Check fuse 15 in the front fuse box, and replace 4) Start the car and drive home in limp mode - The car will do upto 80mph 5) Order your resistors from Ebay, making sure they are the 4K7 type 6) Still use your car while you are waiting for them to be delivered, remembering that it wont pull away as quick as usual 7) Fit the resistor at the weekend in the rain 8) Stand back, chest puffed out, hands on hips, telling the neighbours you've just saved almost 700 quid :-)

Yes Nello, it is a Limited, cream leather interior, heated seats but not electric which I find strange, changed the cabin filter today the one that came out was FULL!!! huge sunroof which also was unexpected, I thought it was just a panoramic roof! My 500X returned 48mpg in town driving and Yes sport mode is entertaining, have you found the 'G' meter?? Sorry the interior photos are poor.

Hi, hopefully this car is going to be mine! The low mileage is due to it being a Guernsey car, so low miles but perhaps a bit more clutch abuse. I've put a deposit on it, just waiting now for the dealer to get a UK registration & MOT for it. I would say it hasn't seen many harsh winters and salty roads etc., however I suppose it has lived in a coastal environment as Guernsey is so small you can't really get away from the sea. I couldn't find any corrosion though, there's a tiny mark on the n/s/r bumper up where it meets the wing and signs of it being stood about (leaves & cobwebs around the under bonnet scuttle area etc) but other than that the exterior is lovely, the wheels & interior are pretty much immaculate. As a long time Lancia fan & owner of an original Delta this one will be getting the re-badge treatment to remove the C-word!

Electric Windows seem to be a bit of a bone of contention. Don't let a seller tell you "It's probably just a fuse" if one of your windows doesn't work, there are no fuses. I have spoken to a couple of other Voyager users and they say the same. Keep the window tracks oiled so there is no resistance for window going up and down. Seems once the tracks either end dry up, the motors slow down and that's when problems can start. I use some 3 in one oil, not WD40, and my once slow windows now nip up and down. Just a thought!!

You are right the handbrake does not auto tighten. there is a blanking grommet in the bottom of the rear disk back plate that allows access to the adjuster. with the wheel off the ground tighten each one until the wheel binds with the handbrake two clicks up. the hand brake on GV's is poor at the best of times so don't expect too much. The cable in the cabin should not need tightening and definitely shouldn't be used to adjust the brakes.

Hi, welcome Not sure if there is a buyer guide, but mechanically the car is similar to a Fiat Bravo II and both seem fairly reliable.The engines are used across a wide range of FCA products from Alfas to Fiat 500s and seem fairly robust and economical. The car is made in Italy but do not expect a thrill a minute Integrale experience, this Delta is more refined and almost an Italian Rover or Audi. The main issue is that people, even car buff do not have a clue what it is although passengers in mine seem quite impressed once inside. Have a search on Instagram for how good they do look inside and out. That 'identity crisis' does make the car hard to price. There are only 900 or so on British roads so some are priced on how they look which can be high (see the £4k one on ebay, looks great) or quite cheaply as there is no real demand. At auction they will typically sell for around £1500. All cars are around 8 years old so expect some wear although mine at 123k miles is holding up rather well. Budget £300 or so for a cambelt at least. Living with it is not a straight forward as Golf, indicator click is stupidly quiet, you have to fold the rear seat down to remove the parcel shelf as the tailgate is smaller than the shelf, no obvious place to put glasses or phone. The feedback from the road is set more toward isolation that the involvement of an Alfa, not as crisp and direct, but more refined. The radio is a let down, trim can be plasticy in places too. On the plus side the driving position is good, engines have decent poke, the body shape still looks crisp and modern and owners of similar sized Mercs, Audis and BMWs do not have a clue what has zoomed past them. Get a remap and take on bigger cars, readily available as the engines are Alfa/Fiat. Parts cheap too for the mechanical stuff, just don't damage the body or interior. The one pictured is a base spec with an even more unloved semi auto gearbox with high is miles, at auction it would have been around £1k, OK for basic transport with a good discount but if the autobox goes wrong few will know how to fix, and probably due a belt change. Now is a good time to get a Delta, market depressed, little demand, confused identity, but reliable basics, distinctive looks, nice colour combinations, smart interior, no signs of rust and prices rock bottom. Seek the best specced one you can find and haggle. What is there not to like!

Got home from the rig and the nice people at Swansea have written to me. So right now I am the proud first ever owner of AP12 VXC! Weirdly the V5 says 'first used elsewhere in the UK', which - if you've been following this - we know is B-S & is what caused all the faffing about in the first place; Guernsey isn't in the UK or EU. Never mind, tomorrow will transfer the GAS plate over & that is finally that!

My Saturday was full on....

Hi . I’m the lucky person who now owns Mikeys Delta. Just got home from collecting it .Mikey has maintained and looked after D3LTX. I have a file 2 inches thick listing everything he’s done .Really nice drive and a credit to him.

flip sake, thought it was just me. Just wasted half a bottle of aftershave.

Hi all, I managed to fix the issue and hope that it will help some of you in the future to save some stress and money. The problem was bad ground wire G300 that lives under the carpet next to the B pillars on each side of the car. You must remove plastic covers and lift the carpet, undo the wire and give it a good clean. I found this video for similar problem, that might help you to picture it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSEAVnWP5X0 Hopefully this is it and I wont have this problem any more.

Hi Sorry for loooooooooong time to answer. If you wont to go lowered on active susp. Just replace springs nad thats all. Dont touch anything on cpu. Replace spring and njoy http://i68.tinypic.com/2quhh5k.jpg http://i65.tinypic.com/2a5fapz.jpg http://i68.tinypic.com/15xpe6o.jpg

Just to confirm got my Delta services and MOT by my local indie. Sailed through MOT:) Sump plug and washer from mito from Alfa workshop was fine. Spark plugs were also right, car feels a lot better a lower revs. Glad I got it done, thanks for the advice chaps

Fixed at last! Got a new siren/control unit off eBay different part number but just the tone of the beep seems slightly different £80 as opposed to about £200 from Fiat, didn't want to risk £200 on something that may not have fixed it! The reason for failure of these units seems to be neither battery failure nor damp. The unit is sealed against damp but this has the side effect of holding in very small amounts of corrosive fumes from the charging of the batteries and this corrodes the circuit board. That's the theory I found on the net and seems plausible

May I add something here after readig it....Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh F/n Helllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll....Sorry....

Thanks again everybody - such a knowledgeable forum!! The cars been running absolutely fine since the repair and my paranoia has also calmed down ha! So far so good x

Hopefully this will be of some use to someone if the same happens, which sadly I believe it a common thing . I've had the resistor in place for a week now, and its been working perfectly. About 300 miles covered faultlessly. It was playing on my mind about the whole thing being held together with electrical tape, so I decided to buy the ready made part from the chaps at www.custom300cshop.co.uk Its the second time Ive used them, and they are really helpful, with fast deliveries. The part I ordered was the swirl flap emulator http://www.custom300cshop.co.uk/chrysler300c_swirlportemulator.html Its basically a resistor fitted into a purpose made, and very high quality plastic casing, which fits perfectly into the swirl flap plug. This should take the worry out of the electrical tape melting or degrading over time. It was £40, which some may say is a lot for a bit of plastic, however the fact that they have had these specially made, they fit perfectly, and they are a damn sight cheaper than a new swirl flap motor, I think its good value for money. Pictures below if you fancy a look. Cheers Matt.

So garage have fitted 4 new injectors, and it so far so good. They have tested it and cannot replicate the cutting out. I have only driven it short distance, but it starts well (when previously it didn't) and it hasn't cut out, when previously it might have. If anything changes I will get back on here, but for anyone else who is experiencing poor starting and cutting out here is the order of events for me: Fuel FilterPressure relief valveFuel filter housing and wiring loomPressure sensor on fuel railInjector testingNew injectors My car has been renamed Triggers Broom!

https://www.parkers.co.uk/chrysler/delta/hatchback-2011/16-m-jet-sr-nav-5d/owner-reviews/20180112065355/?utm_campaign=parkers-owner-reviews&utm_source=publication-confirmation-email&utm_medium=email

This forum has proved indispensable for a Delta owner. I had the misfortune of a snapped passenger side spring coil, originals come in pairs with a hefty £300 price tag. I am going for an advice I got from the forum for a suspension lowering eipache kit been backed and shipped and hopefully by next week will be fitted OK. I will have surplus driver side and the 2 back ones old and bit rusty of course (11 reg) but can solve a problem and get a Delta back on the road. I can find some space in the garage or the attic to keep these in case a mate in the forum needs them, can ship for what it costs. Do you think we should set a spares thread....

Yesterday, I decided it was a good day to drain the transmission fluid and change the filter....warm and no wind (to blow dust up into the exposed under belly of the valve body). After 85,000 miles it probably needed it I bought a Mercedes NAG1 transmission kit a few weeks ago with 6 litres of ATF+4, a new filter and rubber gasket. I drained the oil via the transmission sump plug & after this had dripped almost dry, removed the sump & poured the rest of what was in the bottom of the sump into my big bowl. After pouring it out of my 'big bowl' into a 1 litre jug & then pouring it into an old oil can, I found that only 4 litres had come out . I had read that the usual drain is about 6-7 litres.....But have since read, that 4-5 litres is the norm for a partial oil drain. I guess that the torque converter keeps a good majority of the fluid. Anyway, cleaned up the inside of the sump & magnet, new gasket & exactly the same amount of fluid put in that came out & all is tickety-boo . I did buy an after market dipstick to check the level (had to break MB seal...boo-hoo for main dealers) & after a good warm up, the level is spot on

In the past if you stuck something in a garage/barn for 40 years it would suddenly become rare and valuable, if it were actually worth something in the first place, it could then be worth quite a lot , and receive rose coloured praises from writers who actually never drove one in the first place. That said, I'm not sure how vehicles of today will fair in the future especially if say in another 40 years there's no such thing as petrol/diesel, or that if there is, it would be absolutely horrendous cost per litre. A while ago I bought a Ford Explorer and had it converted to LPG, it drove superbly was extremely reliable and did everything and more that a full size 4x4 could be expected to do. After 9 years and 80,000 the timing chain broke and ruined the engine (and people worry about timing belts). I could of rebuilt the engine, but at that age and mileage it really wasn't worth it, so it went to the great recycler in the sky, mainly because there were many 4x4 alternatives around, most giving as much performance and better economy that an old 'exploder'. However for me the point is that I'm unaware of any suitable replacement for my Stow n Go (as and when it gives up the ghost), hence I will keep mine going as long as is practicable. When it does die I'm not sure what its replacement will be, and I can't really think of any new or vintage which could even come close to it. What else can be used as a large comfortable car one minute, a van the next, and take a full load on a 600 mile trip at 80mph and still touch 30mpg ? 40 years ago you didn't worry much about car electrics as the bodywork was going to rust away long before that ever become a problem

OK guys, anyone following my Voyager problems will know my affection for the Maxi. Today I purchased one in reasonable condition. !976 with full history and historic status. I also purchased 3 weeks ago a 1991 Rover 214 sohc 8v carburettor model. They both have the same things in common. Muscle toning steering, windows etc, no central locking or immobiliser and above all else NO NAFF COMPUTER. Still waiting for some competent auto tech to fix my Voyager, in the mean time I am enjoying real motoring, and with all the things that's happened to me this year this touch of happy days is very welcome. Stay safe, regards Roy.

Sorry, should have posted this in the problems page. Next time I will...promise Anyway, if anyone was wondering what the solution was to code U140E....it was indeed down to a long term flat battery. Took the car to 'D.Salmon' in Colchester today & they sorted it out within an hour. They re-flashed the PCM, took it for a test drive & all sorted. I've got to admit that I have always been a bit wary of main dealers, but 'D.Salmon' were the only place in Essex that I could find that were still servicing Chryslers & still had Starscan/Wi-Tech & the knowhow to use it. They have now changed my opinion of main dealers. They were absolutely fantastic & the guy doing the job really did know what he was doing, he was a real pro & so much more knowledgeable than every local garage/mechanic that looked at it & said.."it's the ABS pump mate ! " The price was £99 (inc VAT) & I suppose that also includes the one off £35 pass to Techauthority for access to the Chrysler database, so that's not a bad price. After four months of owning a Chrysler 300C with no ABS, ESP, Cruise control etc & not having the software to fix it (I thought I did when I bought it, but I was wrong), it's nice to finally find a main dealer (open after the lockdown has lifted) that still has the tech to service Chryslers.

Just adding a note on my experience with the springs. When I bought my car, 2012 1.4 Multiair, in 2016 it had had the offside rear one replaced. The nearside rear duly broke in 2017 and since I needed to get it back on the road quickly I purchased replacement from Chrysler but at the same time ordered a full set of the Eibach springs since I knew sooner or later based on the comments on this Forum that I'd have a problem with the fronts. They were being quoted as out of stock at Eibach at the time hence the decision to get one from the local Chrysler dealer. The Eibach springs took several weeks to arrive but they did eventually (£124 for the four) and since then have been sitting in the garage but sure enough a couple of weeks ago the front nearside spring broke so this gave me the opportunity to replace all four with the Eibachs. I've attached some photos to show before and after and I think it's clear there's a definite lowering. Unfortunately I wasn't organised enough to actually measure anything! They are noticeably stiffer and I'll keep an eye on them to see if they lower any more as they settle in.

I've done a bit of research on KYB springs and there are several spring types. Firstly, nothing mentioned for Lancia Delta of our vintage, so over to the Bravo section, and there are two types of rear spring (sport and regular) and five fronts (sport regular plus varying engine weights to support) 1.4 base Front RH3906 Rear RH6389 1.4 T-Jet RH3907 RH6389 1.4 T-Jet Sport RH3910 RH6437 1.6 Diesel RH3908 RH6389 2.0 Diesel RH3909 RH6437 Dampers are more straightforward and are in the Lancia section Rears all models 343826 Fronts 2.0 (1.9 twin turbo and 1750TB) 339786 all 1.4 petrols and 1.6 diesels 339785 Spring prices on ebay start at £15 for the rears and £25 for the fronts HTH

Update: Thank you all for your contributions. In the end I went for the GoodYear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 5 to replace the Bridgestone Potenzas at the front, and I have to say the Goodyears have transformed the car, not only much better grip but also spectacular change in the steering precision, very increased comfort level and softness on road irregularities, but also very quiet. The car feels much more solid and I am really very satisfied with these tyres and I can recommend them without any hesitation to fellow Delta owners, at least for the 18" wheel size. Looking forward to replace also the ones at the rear after the winter.

Well you're in the right place fella! Welcome to our little Italy corner of the Chrysler forum! You've probably noticed by now there's a few die hard Italian car lovers here with similar Alfa/Fiat/Lancia ownership to yourself plus tonnes of Delta specific info collected as we've all transformed our Delta's or had issues. I get the FB UK page you've set up, and your point about forum hosting etc, I really do... I've help run enough car clubs over the years to experience first hand when things go wrong. Plus to some extent forums are dying because of Facebook and it's simplicity to post pics or attachments etc. I think where the forum still wins over fb is the ability to separate conversations and then search against them if you need to find a specific topic or issue you have. FB isn't great at that unless like AROC or Alfabook where they've had to create lots of model or regional specific group pages, and then you have to join them all. Anyway happy to contribute and help anyone as always whether it's here or on fb.

Just change Chrysler Delta coil springs. Fitted with no problems. KYB RH6389 rear KYB RH3908 front. Fits 100%

Looks great Tim! That sits nicely even without the bumper cut out.

As Inspector Cleusau would say, the problem she is sol-ved! Loose spade connector on the starter motor. Crimped up and now starting. Thank you all for your help and advice.

Just had a quick look and a pair of brand new headlights can be had from rockauto.com from under £100 delivered in 4 to 5 days.

Hi there, It's probably my video you've found: https://youtu.be/MpfQLsWLiic It's based on a mod not by myself but others on the .com forum, many people have done it in the past and on this forum so if you search you'll find many people that have done it. Worked great and haven't seen any negative issues raised by anyone so far on it. Hope it does the trick, getting to the original thermostat has been done (several people) but I've never managed it myself, access was just too difficult as tried several times from top and bottom and couldn't get to the bolts to sufficiently undo.

Yay good lad! Looks great doesn't it, putting it back to the way it should be!

Hi guys. A cautionary tale that I hope will be of use. In a nutshell we discovered that our mechanic and very likely he had followed what previously had been done, had fitted the pad retaining spring ends in the wrong place. This resulted in the whole caliper feeling loose/floating about and wearing the pads at an angle overheating and cracking a piston. Very useful photos came up on google in next to no time. Cheers.

Big shoe Horn between underside of light and top of bumper will do the trick.

Hey up guys yes you're both correct, Sachs self levelling - Nivomat - and replacements are available but bloody expensive. Those are a load bigger diameter body than usual hey Andy!! I got a set of 4 bushes from Jeep Chrysler parts last year for £40, plus I invested in new tool for the garage - a 12 ton press for £90 off ebay hee hee - the Mrs took the piss something rotten - again. Probably a 6 ton would have been fine, but hardly any price difference so lets go large!!! Or there are some KYB options on Rockauto at £163 each, 2 mopar ones left at £154 each. Plus carriage and import duty of course. Better than last year when I could only find them about £200 each - making the press plus bushes a bargain investment. It's not that bad a job with a press - press out the centre piece, use a junior hacksaw so I could get the blade in the middle, cut the rubber out, cut 2 slots in the outer metal of (whats left in my case) the bush, belt that bit out, clean it up and press the new ones in. Doddle..... So then as you say the shocks look like they are not long for this world, if the KYB you have are the same overall length, and only a tiny bit shorter on the shaft for suspension travel, so hopefully shouldn't bottom out before the bump stop, and they were cheap enough, it would in my world be worth a "suck it and see" experiment. And you could then have a look at those originals at your leisure!!

Hi I've uploaded the ones I've found online to my dropbox https://www.dropbox.com/sh/c0wtebrlqv5hbce/AAAb0jWqmIvgrciDuA8nVZu9a?dl=0 Cheers Rich

It can't as it'll be part of the car unless he cuts it out. You wouldn't do that as you'd be stuffed for fitting anything else. Whereas the scrappies should cut the loom out, then that way you could make a patch cable to plug into your existing loom, if that makes sense?

Well.the omens are good. Started first turn of the key last evening when I collected her from the garage and, even more significantly, first turn this morning even though it is cold outside (well, as cold as it gets here!). I took her straight to "Cut Out" roundabout and no problems whatsoever and she seemed to running more smoothly and evenly but, of course, we have to allow here for auto-sugguestion on my part! So, cautious optimism, I'll take her for another run later on and I'll keep you all informed.

this is really weird,,,we all have the same taste..the misses and me px our delta and bmw for ghibli 3.0d beautiful rare colour bronzo Siena,,got strong money for the bmw and I rushed and got carried away and through the delta in the deal..for what they bid looking back I was mad to give it away even with the ball ache I had with it....ghibli a real good looking car gets a lot of attention the colour makes it and the sound from the sport button with (even though it speakers to amplify the sound) is amazing for a diseal... Mikey do you deal in cars, was the manhaim delta a se?

How do we know that he doesn't ???? ;-) Like the Punto and power steering system failure.. usually follows a clutch change . . The engine earth is more of a culprit than the actual power steering Just cos he died after his breakfast, doesn't mean that it was the breakfast that killed him !!!

DRL ordered today, €220 delivered :-D

For anyone else out there looking to do the same. Here’s a good video for anyone looking to do the same: https://youtu.be/jdie4bJQGWYI think it’s in Spanish though, but good that you can see how to. He’s used 41mm festoon led’s.

Hi, I have a price: 41, 48. They do want payment in advance... So, if you think of a solution. I can only assume they will ask for an uk credit or debit card, they do take payments over the phone or someone can go in the office and order the part. Let me know what you think.

We'd both be interested in attending in our Delta's. One is a Momo 'S' which has just been Lancia branded (on the outside only at the moment) and an SR with the black Momo grill.

Just wanted to thank Nello for his instructions on how to replace the front grill and yes, I know this post is getting quite old now. We've got two Delta's - a Volcanic Black Momo 'S' model and my white SR, both 1.6TD. I found a grill on eBay Italy but the guy wouldn't ship it to the UK for some reason. (He also ignored the messages that I sent him), so I got it shipped to a friend in Germany who kindly shipped it to us. Yesterday we took the front bumper off the S and replaced it with the Lancia grill, then moved the Momo grill to my SR. The grill wasn't cheap, it was 199 Euro. Also the back Lancia badge was another 22 Euro. The right hand side, underneath the car is a total pain in the arse because its got plastic screws which hold a cover in place. The rest of it was fairly simple. The first bumper took about an hour and a half as we were learning on the job, where as we did my SR in about half that time. I'm not convinced yet by the black grill on my SR, but it does look good on the S. Here's some pics of before and after.

Did it!! Excellent video andyb2000 thanks! I found out that the thermostat I bought was actually mis-labelled in the database and was for an earlier voyager variant. I didn't fancy waiting for 2 weeks for delivery of the ebay thermostat that andy mentioned in his youtube notes so I did a little research on similar types. I picked up a thermostat for a 1992 Renault Clio 1.1 Engine code C1E700. It was about £8. It didn't have the same housing as the one Andy used, but the disc type. I had do do a fair bit of filing to reduce the diameter. It works a treat! Thanks all for your help.

Hi and WELCOME TO THE FORUM Sorry to hear that someone has damaged your Grand! Unfortunately the lens is not replaceable on its own, and you will need to replace the whole unit. Fortunately this is a very straight forward job and you should be able to save yourself some money by doing it yourself. In order to remove the rear light, raise the tailgate (boot). You will see 2 x 10mm bolts at the boot side of the light unit. Undo these two bolts. Then, pull the whole light unit straight back towards you. There are two rubber locating lugs that hold the light into the rear quarter panel and these will "un pop" as you pull the light straight back. Then simply disconnect the wiring multi-plugs and remove the unit, Hope that helps, Alan