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Afternoon all. I thought I would share a bit of a story that happened to me this weekend, in the hope that it will help some others if the same thing happens to them. The model it concerns is any 300C with the Mercedes 3 litre V6 diesel. I'm guessing the newer models with the VM diesel will be totally different. So there we are, on the way to Wakefield from Essex where we live, merrily trotting along the motorway. All of a sudden the dashboard starts to chime repeatedly (as if i've left the headlights on and got out), the engine cuts out completely, and on the dashboard are the engine management light, and the red lightening bolt, with a reverse bracket either side (see attached photo). We coast to a stop onto the hard shoulder, and i try to restart the car. It turns over and over, but refuses to fire up. The missus gets on the phone to the RAC, and we're told there's roughly a two hour wait, so this gives me a bit of time to do some Googling before the patrol arrives. Now then, if you refer to the handbook, it clearly states (even in the diesel supplement) that the lightening bolt light indicates there is a fault with the "Electronic Throttle Control". This is utter nonsense. As it turns out, on the diesel models only, this light refers to a fault with either the Swirl Flap Motor, or the Turbo Actuator. Annoyingly this isnt listed in any of the handbooks that come with the car. Poor show Chrysler! Whenever you turn the ignition on in the car, you can see the arm of the turbo actuator raise up. So if this is the problem, then its very easy to diagnose. I tried this little test, and sure enough, the turbo actuator arm wasn't popping up when my wife turned the ignition on, so naturally I thought this was the problem. Sadly I was wrong. What had happened to my car was this.... Over time, the seal around the air intake on the front of the turbo degrades. This allows a small amount of oil to drip onto the swirl flap motor, which is situated directly below. (very poor design). This oil had eventually seeped inside the motor, causing it to short out. This short had instantly popped fuse number 15 under the bonnet, which in turn had caused the engine to shut down while doing 70mph to protect itself. I didn't have the handbook in the car with me sadly, so searching on the internet just have me fuse diagrams of the petrol models, which on those shows its for the injectors. Again as it turns out, fuse 15 in the front fuse box does completely different things on the diesel models. It protects the following.... A/C Clutch, A/C Pressure regulator, Crankcase Vent Heater, EGR Valve, Engine Control Module, Fuel Pump, Glow Plug Module, Swirl Flap Motor, Oxygen sensors.. So I replaced the blown fuse with a spare 20 amp, and the car fired straight up. It was now in limp mode, and showing the EML and Lightening light, but it was drive-able up to about 80 mph, albeit a bit slow getting there. By this time, the RAC man had arrived. Now there is nothing worse that someone interfering when a pro is at work, so when he arrived, I left him to it, and he plugged the diagnostics in, and it threw up a ton of errors all related to things connected to this fuse. All except the swirl flap motor. He was a bit confused at first, but then I mentioned that I think it might be the swirl flap motor. He hooked up all his testing gear to it, ran a load of tests, and sure enough confirmed to me that the motor was dead. He then cleared the ECU codes, started the car, and only then did it throw up a specific Swirl Flap related error. HE gave me some spare fuses, and after a quick road test, we were on our merry way albeit in limp mode. Now to fixing it. The cheapest place I could find to supply and fit a new motor quoted £575 plus VAT. The motor is just over £100, but the labour involved is a joke. Anything that is situated inside the VEE of the engine (Swirl Flap Motor, Oil Cooler) etc needs major open heart surgery to fix it. Annoyingly both the motor and the cooler seals have known faults, so they couldn't be in a worse place! If you fancy forking out all that money to have the motor replaced, then that is no doubt the best way in the long run, however there is a quick fix for £1.99 and YES it does work perfectly. Get yourself some 4K7 resistors off of ebay, they are £1.99 for 50. Remove the engine cover, then remove the intake pipe that runs from the airbox to the front of the turbo. Right below the turbo, you will see a black box. This is the offending motor. On the right of the motor is a multi plug held in with a grey clip. Remove the metal bracket above the plug, and pop the plug off. Grab a resistor, and bend the legs in such a way that they will fit snugly into the two centre holes in the plug. Theres 4 in total. Once you have put the resistor in, and you can confirm its in there properly. Tape it up with electrical tape so the resistor wont fall out. Replace the metal bracket, and the air intake pipe, leaving the plug sticking up so you can get to it again in the future if you need to. Then start up the car, and stand back in amazement as both the engine management light and the lightening bolt lights extinguish, and the car comes back out of limp mode. Take the car for a drive, and you will see that it drives as good as new. What you have done here, is fool the car into thinking the swirl flap motor is working again. WHen in fact its now disconnected. You shouldnt notice any difference in performance or fuel economy at all. The emissions may be up slightly when cold is all. So to summarise, if your car cuts out with the lightening bolt on. 1) Coast to a stop 2) Curse, swear, have a fag, but don't despair 3) Check fuse 15 in the front fuse box, and replace 4) Start the car and drive home in limp mode - The car will do upto 80mph 5) Order your resistors from Ebay, making sure they are the 4K7 type 6) Still use your car while you are waiting for them to be delivered, remembering that it wont pull away as quick as usual 7) Fit the resistor at the weekend in the rain 8) Stand back, chest puffed out, hands on hips, telling the neighbours you've just saved almost 700 quid :-)

Yes Nello, it is a Limited, cream leather interior, heated seats but not electric which I find strange, changed the cabin filter today the one that came out was FULL!!! huge sunroof which also was unexpected, I thought it was just a panoramic roof! My 500X returned 48mpg in town driving and Yes sport mode is entertaining, have you found the 'G' meter?? Sorry the interior photos are poor.

Hi, hopefully this car is going to be mine! The low mileage is due to it being a Guernsey car, so low miles but perhaps a bit more clutch abuse. I've put a deposit on it, just waiting now for the dealer to get a UK registration & MOT for it. I would say it hasn't seen many harsh winters and salty roads etc., however I suppose it has lived in a coastal environment as Guernsey is so small you can't really get away from the sea. I couldn't find any corrosion though, there's a tiny mark on the n/s/r bumper up where it meets the wing and signs of it being stood about (leaves & cobwebs around the under bonnet scuttle area etc) but other than that the exterior is lovely, the wheels & interior are pretty much immaculate. As a long time Lancia fan & owner of an original Delta this one will be getting the re-badge treatment to remove the C-word!

Electric Windows seem to be a bit of a bone of contention. Don't let a seller tell you "It's probably just a fuse" if one of your windows doesn't work, there are no fuses. I have spoken to a couple of other Voyager users and they say the same. Keep the window tracks oiled so there is no resistance for window going up and down. Seems once the tracks either end dry up, the motors slow down and that's when problems can start. I use some 3 in one oil, not WD40, and my once slow windows now nip up and down. Just a thought!!

You are right the handbrake does not auto tighten. there is a blanking grommet in the bottom of the rear disk back plate that allows access to the adjuster. with the wheel off the ground tighten each one until the wheel binds with the handbrake two clicks up. the hand brake on GV's is poor at the best of times so don't expect too much. The cable in the cabin should not need tightening and definitely shouldn't be used to adjust the brakes.

Hi, welcome Not sure if there is a buyer guide, but mechanically the car is similar to a Fiat Bravo II and both seem fairly reliable.The engines are used across a wide range of FCA products from Alfas to Fiat 500s and seem fairly robust and economical. The car is made in Italy but do not expect a thrill a minute Integrale experience, this Delta is more refined and almost an Italian Rover or Audi. The main issue is that people, even car buff do not have a clue what it is although passengers in mine seem quite impressed once inside. Have a search on Instagram for how good they do look inside and out. That 'identity crisis' does make the car hard to price. There are only 900 or so on British roads so some are priced on how they look which can be high (see the £4k one on ebay, looks great) or quite cheaply as there is no real demand. At auction they will typically sell for around £1500. All cars are around 8 years old so expect some wear although mine at 123k miles is holding up rather well. Budget £300 or so for a cambelt at least. Living with it is not a straight forward as Golf, indicator click is stupidly quiet, you have to fold the rear seat down to remove the parcel shelf as the tailgate is smaller than the shelf, no obvious place to put glasses or phone. The feedback from the road is set more toward isolation that the involvement of an Alfa, not as crisp and direct, but more refined. The radio is a let down, trim can be plasticy in places too. On the plus side the driving position is good, engines have decent poke, the body shape still looks crisp and modern and owners of similar sized Mercs, Audis and BMWs do not have a clue what has zoomed past them. Get a remap and take on bigger cars, readily available as the engines are Alfa/Fiat. Parts cheap too for the mechanical stuff, just don't damage the body or interior. The one pictured is a base spec with an even more unloved semi auto gearbox with high is miles, at auction it would have been around £1k, OK for basic transport with a good discount but if the autobox goes wrong few will know how to fix, and probably due a belt change. Now is a good time to get a Delta, market depressed, little demand, confused identity, but reliable basics, distinctive looks, nice colour combinations, smart interior, no signs of rust and prices rock bottom. Seek the best specced one you can find and haggle. What is there not to like!

Got home from the rig and the nice people at Swansea have written to me. So right now I am the proud first ever owner of AP12 VXC! Weirdly the V5 says 'first used elsewhere in the UK', which - if you've been following this - we know is B-S & is what caused all the faffing about in the first place; Guernsey isn't in the UK or EU. Never mind, tomorrow will transfer the GAS plate over & that is finally that!

My Saturday was full on....

Hi . I’m the lucky person who now owns Mikeys Delta. Just got home from collecting it .Mikey has maintained and looked after D3LTX. I have a file 2 inches thick listing everything he’s done .Really nice drive and a credit to him.

flip sake, thought it was just me. Just wasted half a bottle of aftershave.

Hi all, I managed to fix the issue and hope that it will help some of you in the future to save some stress and money. The problem was bad ground wire G300 that lives under the carpet next to the B pillars on each side of the car. You must remove plastic covers and lift the carpet, undo the wire and give it a good clean. I found this video for similar problem, that might help you to picture it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSEAVnWP5X0 Hopefully this is it and I wont have this problem any more.

Hi Sorry for loooooooooong time to answer. If you wont to go lowered on active susp. Just replace springs nad thats all. Dont touch anything on cpu. Replace spring and njoy http://i68.tinypic.com/2quhh5k.jpg http://i65.tinypic.com/2a5fapz.jpg http://i68.tinypic.com/15xpe6o.jpg

Just to confirm got my Delta services and MOT by my local indie. Sailed through MOT:) Sump plug and washer from mito from Alfa workshop was fine. Spark plugs were also right, car feels a lot better a lower revs. Glad I got it done, thanks for the advice chaps

Fixed at last! Got a new siren/control unit off eBay different part number but just the tone of the beep seems slightly different £80 as opposed to about £200 from Fiat, didn't want to risk £200 on something that may not have fixed it! The reason for failure of these units seems to be neither battery failure nor damp. The unit is sealed against damp but this has the side effect of holding in very small amounts of corrosive fumes from the charging of the batteries and this corrodes the circuit board. That's the theory I found on the net and seems plausible

May I add something here after readig it....Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh F/n Helllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll....Sorry....

Thanks again everybody - such a knowledgeable forum!! The cars been running absolutely fine since the repair and my paranoia has also calmed down ha! So far so good x

Hopefully this will be of some use to someone if the same happens, which sadly I believe it a common thing . I've had the resistor in place for a week now, and its been working perfectly. About 300 miles covered faultlessly. It was playing on my mind about the whole thing being held together with electrical tape, so I decided to buy the ready made part from the chaps at www.custom300cshop.co.uk Its the second time Ive used them, and they are really helpful, with fast deliveries. The part I ordered was the swirl flap emulator http://www.custom300cshop.co.uk/chrysler300c_swirlportemulator.html Its basically a resistor fitted into a purpose made, and very high quality plastic casing, which fits perfectly into the swirl flap plug. This should take the worry out of the electrical tape melting or degrading over time. It was £40, which some may say is a lot for a bit of plastic, however the fact that they have had these specially made, they fit perfectly, and they are a damn sight cheaper than a new swirl flap motor, I think its good value for money. Pictures below if you fancy a look. Cheers Matt.

So garage have fitted 4 new injectors, and it so far so good. They have tested it and cannot replicate the cutting out. I have only driven it short distance, but it starts well (when previously it didn't) and it hasn't cut out, when previously it might have. If anything changes I will get back on here, but for anyone else who is experiencing poor starting and cutting out here is the order of events for me: Fuel FilterPressure relief valveFuel filter housing and wiring loomPressure sensor on fuel railInjector testingNew injectors My car has been renamed Triggers Broom!

https://www.parkers.co.uk/chrysler/delta/hatchback-2011/16-m-jet-sr-nav-5d/owner-reviews/20180112065355/?utm_campaign=parkers-owner-reviews&utm_source=publication-confirmation-email&utm_medium=email

This forum has proved indispensable for a Delta owner. I had the misfortune of a snapped passenger side spring coil, originals come in pairs with a hefty £300 price tag. I am going for an advice I got from the forum for a suspension lowering eipache kit been backed and shipped and hopefully by next week will be fitted OK. I will have surplus driver side and the 2 back ones old and bit rusty of course (11 reg) but can solve a problem and get a Delta back on the road. I can find some space in the garage or the attic to keep these in case a mate in the forum needs them, can ship for what it costs. Do you think we should set a spares thread....

Mine is also odd. Whenever I open the door to get in it says: 'You will regret buying this car. Wait until you see how soon the battery will go flat'' Then when getting out it says: "Phew, we made it. THIS time!".

A bit late with reply as been very busy, Not sure If pump timing is critical as its just high pressure pump , but when I did my belt and water pump I had a few attempts to get the pump marks to line up , in the end I clamped the belt to cam pulleys with wooden clothes pegs removed the idler near pump so I could turn pump a tooth just past marker , and put idler back on, then when I set belt tension all lined up When I first stripped it all down I checked markings and pump was 1 tooth out but car ran fine I too struggled with water pump bolts but found it best to put the bolt in pipe bracket and pump first , line up and screw in part way before other 4 bolts TBH the whole job was a pig so many bolts difficult to get to

Great review!!!!

Definitely not condensation in my case - pool of water under the plastic insert when removed You'd want to be dogging all night, every night to generate that much moisture

Hi guys & gals. First time owner of a Chrysler. Brought a 2007 Grand Voyager Executive CRD auto 84’000 miles 4 months ago. Learnt a lot from the forum before joining today. Already done the button mod. Thanks leedsman. Really enjoying ownership so far. Nice big barge to drive. When I brought the car it had a Exide EB741 battery on (unknown age but looked old), worked fine till it got cold. Decided to buy a RedTop. Mistake. Yes it had great cranking power, but drained heavily when not used for a couple of days. I borrowed a high tech amp meter which recorded over a long weekend of no use. Car was only drawing minimal ma consistently. Yet my battery tester had it down to 40% charge. When I charge the RedTop up to 100% and leave disconnected, it retains charge. Apparently the self discharge when connected is common on these red tops. Quality is not what they used to be. In the end gave up and brought a Advanced 096R XD battery for £80 delivered. This battery is perfect. No self discharge and plenty of power to spin the crd over on cold mornings. Volt meter reads 12.8v after leaving all weekend. Result. Sorry for the long first post, but wanted to share my experience. I like to do my own servicing and repairs, and pretty handy with electrics and fault finding on management systems. Hope I can contribute to the forum as much as it’s helped me already. Paul.

I've done a bit of research on KYB springs and there are several spring types. Firstly, nothing mentioned for Lancia Delta of our vintage, so over to the Bravo section, and there are two types of rear spring (sport and regular) and five fronts (sport regular plus varying engine weights to support) 1.4 base Front RH3906 Rear RH6389 1.4 T-Jet RH3907 RH6389 1.4 T-Jet Sport RH3910 RH6437 1.6 Diesel RH3908 RH6389 2.0 Diesel RH3909 RH6437 Dampers are more straightforward and are in the Lancia section Rears all models 343826 Fronts 2.0 (1.9 twin turbo and 1750TB) 339786 all 1.4 petrols and 1.6 diesels 339785 Spring prices on ebay start at £15 for the rears and £25 for the fronts HTH

Deltamike - I honestly think the Delta's lights are really good - and that's with Halogen Dipped beam.............. you should try driving a Fiat Coupe at night!

Hi Nigel, I'm not sure about that specific part number, but I can confirm that the Fiat Bravo back box does fit the Delta as the floor pans are identical.

That's great news :-D Glad you are sorted and enjoying the driving

Well done Mike!!! Everything comes to he who waits

I'm not (new to Italian cars) so ask away, rather than to chance making a balls up :-D

They're just adhesive, so they will stick to the strip.

Thanks for the kind words. A non-nav petrol SR in white with the black roof was my preference, then with Peterborough being not too far from Norwich it all lined up. I do think it is a tad pricey & he won't budge on that but there aren't many about & the mileage is probably one of the lowest to be found I suppose. Not that that's a priority for me but I appreciate it does affect valuations. And I guess he has to pay to register & MOT it, which no doubt I will be covering! I've looked through your thread about Lancia badging which looks great; yours plus I think nearly all of the SRs I've seen have the dark alloys but on this one they are just silver. Perhaps because it is white, I don't know? I also don't know which centre caps to go for, I've seen on here people saying they're specific to size but the 17" do usually seem to be darker. I have headrests, airbag, rear & side badges but I held off wheel caps & grille until I knew what car I was getting (if it had been a dark colour I'd have gone for the Momo grille), as it is I think it'll be the 'waterfall' grille & the light silver caps I've not come across yet!

Have you tried the earth lead connection to the starter motor? That was the trouble with mine with similar symptoms a year or so back IIRC. A quick wiggle and it magically sprang back to life. Replaced the spade connector with a new one after and it's not done it again. Good luck!

Take the filter out again and double check there's not 2 o-rings in there. Long shot, but worth a go, and something that has been reported before.

Cutting out completely and not just to limp mode is usually caused by boost pressure and the sensor. Check sensor first as it can get severely gummed up. Other place to look is turbo actuator for freeness and that it actually works.

I had a bit of a brainwave - I decided to look on ebay for 2.5CRD gearboxes and found the attached photo. It shows the orientation of the 3 bolts that need to be undone. From that, I had another look at the diagram. I realised that I had misidentified the 3 bolts - the diagram only shows 2 of the bolts, but if you trace the dotted line down from one of them, it splits into 2 locations. I think I'll use a length of old exhaust pipe to direct some air from a heat gun onto the bolts and then use another length on my ratchet to get a bit more torque onto the offending bolts. Another update this weekend...

8 rockers, yes. I had a belt snap previously. Here's my thread on another forum when mines went. https://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/chrysler-voyager-town-country-21/2-5-crd-timing-belt-loads-damage-10979/ The injectors are a pig to get out though, so much so I had to buy an injector puller. If you go ahead with repairs, I've the genuine Chrysler puller one here if you need it. I'd happily post it to you at cost, as long as I get it back again. http://www.vmdieselspecialist.com/worth a call to price parts, I've used them a few times (replacement injector seals and o-rings, gasket)

Hi Lollypop - yes - I'll try to find the thread but I changed the backbox on my 1.4 MA for one which was labelled for a Bravo - Its the identical part - cost me about £35 new and delivered!

ps listen to gordy and andy they a geniuses very very knowledgeable and helped me more than enough times with there advice thumbs up fellas

this is really weird,,,we all have the same taste..the misses and me px our delta and bmw for ghibli 3.0d beautiful rare colour bronzo Siena,,got strong money for the bmw and I rushed and got carried away and through the delta in the deal..for what they bid looking back I was mad to give it away even with the ball ache I had with it....ghibli a real good looking car gets a lot of attention the colour makes it and the sound from the sport button with (even though it speakers to amplify the sound) is amazing for a diseal... Mikey do you deal in cars, was the manhaim delta a se?

Hi Lindzy and welcome along ! If there's 84k miles on the pump and you have no evidence that it has been changed in the cars lifetime, I would take the opportunity to do it now, as it would be at least 5 years old now ???? The reason that most garages recommend a pump change is because most are ran by the timing belt now and most timing belts are now in kit form and include new guide bearings, belt stretcher and some include the pump and gasket, when the new belt is fitted the new stretcher puts a different tension on the belt (because it is new) and this may be more than the old belt, which is a different push or pull on the old water pump (if it hasn't been replaced) what often happens is, that 3 or 4 months after you replace the timing belt and don't renew the pump, the pump begins to leak because of the different tension Apologies for the rambling response, your eyes have probably glazed over

You need multiecuscan software and then need to clear both service and oil degradation counters. If you are going to keep the car a while and do your own servicing and diagnostics is well worth buying as it will soon pay for itself. You need to run it on a laptop and get a set of connectors for the OBD2 socket.

hi had same problem with my doors watched this easy easy repair well worth a go your self copy paste watch

Yes I have constantly bleated that gordy .. .. and one main reason for my conclusion ! As a lifelong self-maintainer I would have fought anyone accusing me of less than 'super diligent' maintenance yet when I did a complete [oil] [water] [brake fluid] [autobox] change of all wets I was mortified to find a lumpy carrots and tatties in the coolant. Unless you yourself have maintained it from brand new, and none of us will have always assume all three are well knackered. The brake fluid is hydroscopic, the wrong cheepo oil / filters and coolant is always used by both garages and pet fitters. Do your car a favour, this trilogy of fluids are your lifeblood. Never backflush a RAD, always use HOAT, it will self bleed from the expansion bottle, always open the heater to full belt and change the fluid in the matrix. Best of luck. HOAT only coolant ATF+4 only Mopar Spec AutoBox oil

So just to confirm to everybody I have now repaired my vehicle using a gearbox from a 3.3 petrol voyager. I purchased a 52 plate with head gasket failure for £200.The car had done 68k with one owner and full service history. I drove the vehicle for 36 miles without fault and if im honest it was a shame to break the car as it drove perfectly. I figured for £200 I would have a go and see if it would work. Well the answer is yes all though there is 2 slight modifications you have to do. 1: On the 2.8 gearboxes you will find 2 bolt holes under the rear diff, the 3.3 only has one and its in the wrong place. Easy to sort just alloy weld and make second hole. (I suppose you could just ignore it because its only one bolt but I like things to be right) 2: the hoses at the front as Neil said are incorrect. Rather than using hose I simply unscrewed the fitting and replaced with the correct fitting from my 2.8 gearbox. Fits perfect. I did use the torque converter from my 2.8 but looking the 3.3 would fit no worries. I have driven the car around 50 miles and all is perfect. So how much has it cost for this gearbox repair: Scrap car £200 Gearbox oil and filter £36 total £236 But then guess what, as I have bought a full car I can now either break the full car which I haven't time to do or sell to scrap yard. I have chosen the later and they are collecting it and giving me £125. So this gearbox repair has cost me £111. I did look at the internals prior to fitting and can also confirm they are the same. hope this helps somebody else in the future as on my quest to find a gearbox everybody told me it couldn't be done and that a gearbox is £500. Well they were wrong

Did it!! Excellent video andyb2000 thanks! I found out that the thermostat I bought was actually mis-labelled in the database and was for an earlier voyager variant. I didn't fancy waiting for 2 weeks for delivery of the ebay thermostat that andy mentioned in his youtube notes so I did a little research on similar types. I picked up a thermostat for a 1992 Renault Clio 1.1 Engine code C1E700. It was about £8. It didn't have the same housing as the one Andy used, but the disc type. I had do do a fair bit of filing to reduce the diameter. It works a treat! Thanks all for your help.

Hi, Sounds like neither garage knew what they were doing to be honest! Compete twonks as it takes about two minutes to reset both counters!! I use Nigel Snape for all my personal and stock cars. He's a Master mechanic, factory trained and ex dealer network so knows his way around anything Italian. He can reset both the oil degradation and mileage lights for you in minutes! All of his details can be found here: https://www.facebook.com/Master-Tech-Vehicle-Services-1503549283203097/

I would put money on it being a faulty stereo amplifier, which is located in the right hand rear quarter panel. VArious other circuits run through this too, like the alarm system. I had this intermittent problem for about two years, until it was properly diagnosed by a good auto electrician, replaced, and never a flicker of a problem since.

Hurrah!