Hi guys! i got round to swapping the actuator today, while doing a couple of other bits like some exhaust repair paste on a hole in the middle silencer, hoping to get a bit longer out of it because as it's a stow n go I haven't yet found an aftermarket one (can find diesel ones). I can get a stainless steel one made & fitted fairly locally but am reluctant to spend money on the ungrateful sod of a machine. Put a new radiator on in the middle of November then the ignition coil goes one week later, at only 4 months old. I sent it back and got a refund no problem, just ruddy mither. New coil from the States in 2 days! Then changed the front drop links as one end of the nearside has gone, and noisy, significantly, after only 18 months. They were bought from Jeep Chrysler parts who are pretty good, so that was disappointing. But an easy job. So anyway I would guess you have done yours by now! Hey @@CJE ! Give a reply how it went?! But for others the removal of the door card is a Philips screw in the recessed handle / "ash tray" at the top of the door, pop off the surround for the rubber bumper, then start at the bottom and (loudly!) pop off the door card, raise it over the locking knob, release from the upper window surround and it's away. It has a heavy plastic sheet behind this, and a polystyrene block, presumably for a bit of noise insulation. A little torx screw to release the actuator from the door, slide forward a little, release the door knob rod from the clip on the actuator, remove the electrical connector and you're away. Refitting is not simply a reversal as you need to ensure the arc of the arm on the actuator is situated on the little barrel that is part of the door closer cinch motor, otherwise it won't disable this when "locked" and the opener button will operate. And it's hidden well, but isn't hugely difficult to feel for. The actuators are the same both sides, but the arm is handed. The ones I have bought came with both arms each time.