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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/17/18 in all areas

  1. Coolant temperature sensor location From memory this is a 2-pin sensor (You'll soon notice when you take the connector off), if that's the case then it'll be a resistance type varying the resistance depending on temperature so you could do a simple test of check it when engine stone cold, then check it again after a drive around to get up to temperature, see what varyance is, but I'd not know the thresholds without doing more digging I'm afraid.
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  2. OK, so we know relays are eliminated. That sounds about right for them spinning, so at least they're free moving. I suppose next part is coolant temperature sensor which you rightly queried, though I'm not 100% on location, will take a look when I'm home at the wiring diagram, however what does the dial in the car show, if that reads normal I'd not expect the temperature sensor to be at fault. I guess next steps depending on how adventurous you are! Personally (being more inclined to electrical!) I'd be getting a couple of wires from a battery, disconnect one radiator fan connector and feed 12v straight into the fan terminal, get it to spin and see if it keeps spinning. That way you know for sure if it is the fan itself or not. (Usual caveats apply, don't cross the wires, etc, as car battery can pack quite a punch/spark!) The other alternative to that is to use a multimeter and read what voltage is being supplied to the fans, if its constant 12v then you know it's the fan itself, if it's 12v then down to 0 then its the ECU cutting power to the fans for some reason. Unfortunately it's a step-by-step process this one. I'm hoping it's not the ECU cutting the power as that could be all sorts of reasons.
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