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My fault the proper way to express it is 33K [33,000] Ohm Metal Film Resistor @ 0.5W. NOTE : Not the 1/4W in your thumb.

My radio is original, but when chasing a power draw, I removed it and found that it had previously had an aftermarket stereo fitted. This was what was causing my battery drain. There was a wire that was live all the time, that should have no power to it with the keys removed. In my case, the electric windows work all the time, and the clock on the radio is always displaying the time. Suspect the wiring's been messed about with somewhere, to give the aftermarket stereo that had been fitted a constant live feed. I fitted a seperate switch to isolate the constant live. Something you could try tonight is pull the rdo ewd/rr wpr fuse, see if that keeps the battery voltage around the 12.6. Ideally, you would use a test meter and check for a current draw. Mines was 600mA, and it went down to around 30mA when pulling the fuse I've mentioned.

Tonight do this: after a half an hour an hour trip, disconnect the battery terminal and che k tomorrow what voltage do you get. Is the battery good?

Its missing a replaceable resistor get a UK one to be safe or just put a 20p resistor in. Best of luck.

Just wanted to post another follow-up, I'm still free of engine cutting out, but it still doesn't feel like it's running smoothly. So my summary of what's gone on: Filter change, ensuring housing is tight and seal correct - essentialRunning injector/diesel cleaner through the tank a few times - seems to improve thingsFuel heater - unsure if this makes any difference at all!Replacing the MAP/TC sensor - this seems to have solved the issue for meSo for now, a cold start seems OK (Bit of a chug but starts generally first time with a cloud of smoke (unburnt diesel)) A warm start seems troublesome, it'll turn over and over without seeming to 'catch' or fire, but waggling the accelerator whilst turning it over and sometimes clicking the ignition on and off a couple of times will make it start. I'm not 100% on the cause of that warm start problem at the moment, it also feels like it's running a little rough between the 2.5 and 3k revs area but not significantly. Idling is fine no stutters, power and acceleration are there (I can foot to floor and belt it up a hill without hesitation).

Hi, Sorry was away a few days (almost 1,000 miles added to the GV and no issues with cutting out I'm pleased to say). Yes, I found the same thing, the heater was disconnected, when tested/reconnected it was a dead short, looks like it's in the wiring loom somewhere up behind the glovebox as it passes between outer and inner bodywork, I've not yet traced it as I simply cut it back under the carpet and wired it up elsewhere, happy to give details if you need it. In terms of my cutting out, no I don't think it was ultimately the issue, though may have been one of many combined together causing me issues. Unless you have problems I'd not worry about it as also cannot see it making a huge difference.

I didn't have time to take mine apart to post a picture but it should have a wire there with an electronic component, I can't say if it is resistor or not. If you search it online you could see it. Hope it helps.

Try to find your model in the link below. It is a manual with pictures and detailed texts which I found very useful. http://oskin.ru/pub/chrysler-dodge/manuals/Service%20Manuals/

Hi, I'm also in the south of France, just behind Cannes. I just changed the fuel filter and the fuel filter housing and so far so good. The old fuel filter housing had a membrane inside it that was damaged and we think that it was allowing air into the system.