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Have a look at post #40 and read on from there. Andy has found the fuse and relay missing from his. http://www.chryslerforum.co.uk/topic/2219-28crd-cutting-out-above-25k-rpm/page-2

Thanks all. And so it continues! So I've been tracking down the short to ground on the fuel heater wiring, I *think* it's where the wiring loom comes in from the passenger side wheel through into the cockpit behind the glovebox, but I didn't dismantle the dash far enough. So, what I've done is located the wiring loom down the centre of the vehicle, identified the wiring colours from the IPM/fusebox and cut the wires towards the rear before it went back out to the pump assembly connector. I've included photos so everyone else has reference if they ever need to trace cables/wiring looms! Back of the IPM (remove battery, then the IPM flips up easily from a plastic clip) and the connector in question is the ORANGE almost dead centre here. Traced that to the relay switched positive side. (So from battery positive it goes to one side of the 20a fuse, other side of fuse goes to relay (omron 21911c) pin 87. Output of switched relay pin 30 goes to dark blue wire with orange stripe pin 2 on the orange connector at back of IPM. So then follow that wiring loom, it goes into the wheel arch on passenger side, up and over and into the cockpit. I didn't identify that location, but that's my guess where the damage to the loom exists. That's my next job as my thinking is if that wire has shorted, another or others are next on the hit list! Inside the car the loom then splits and either goes along the passenger door, passenger seat belt pillar, to rear door. Other part of the loom crosses somewhere under the passenger seat, into the middle duct of the car. So to access that, take the mount for the centre middle-row console out. You can see the black plastic cover for the duct. Unfortunately the break/split point is somewhere along the middle between the middle and rear seats, so as you can see I decided to cut the carpet to gain access. And you can then lift up the plastic and gain access You can see the rubber grommit where the cables that run down to the lift pump go, so that wiring plug carries: fuel heater, fuel lift pump, and water-in-diesel sensor. 6-way. The connector underneath that plugs into the lift pump assembly is a 6-way, pin 1 (top left) is the heater pin (dark blue wire with orange stripe) and bottom right (pin6) is ground. The fuel heater is approx 3ohms on mine, which @12v and 20amp potentially equates to a 240watt heater! Wow, so this runs almost constantly, so another big battery drain to be aware of! It's on at the moment ignition is in first position, so something to be aware of if you sit listening to the radio a lot on the 2.8CRD with this setup!! Anyway, after all this, I've wired it in direct and tried again and I'm still getting rough idling, cutting out at idle and hesitation, so it hasn't solved my problem (Also replaced fuel filter for good measure again). So I'm onto more thinking :-( I've got the specs for two sensors I'm going to test next, one is the intake air temperature sensor (Which is incorporated into the TC boost sensor, 4-wire jobby). The next is the MAF, again check readings, etc. After that, must be injectors?