Leaderboard

I've been having the the classic low fuel pressure problems in my 2.8 crd. Hard to start,constantly having to hand prime to start and press the accelerator. I checked the filter housing for leaks,and the fuel filter everything seems ok.I did the leak back test on the relief valve on the rail and that seemed fine so I was really starting to think fuel solenoid on the pump or dribbling injectors. Anyway today I changed the battery from a 560A 70AH to a 800A 85AH I had to chop the tray but eventually got the bigger unit in place. Low and behold the car started without any assistance !! After a couple of minutes the cooling fan kicked in and then stopped ( is this normal ?) It seems like a different car. Its early days and we'll see how it goes but it's looking promising for now. I think i'll be looking at doing the Leedsman's battery mod as well.

Battery choice, like choosing a wife, provokes different opinions on what is beautiful. The issue however are simple. You should be looking for about 800CCA over 80aH, this is a physical size that will not fit the CRD battery tray, so get a big one and modify the tray, or get a smaller one and take your UK winter chances. There is a~n~other UK issue of lifestyle, its a use it or lose it condition. If like me you do 2000 miles per annum with two 15 minutes trips once a week you will regardless of battery size / cost never keep that battery charged, the BUS [over 7 or so days] at resting will use more than the 30 minutes the alternator was able to replace. Different people have success with different batteries, I'm sure the UK users will come to your aid with their suggestions, particularly the Scottish contingent who have an even colder climate than I. For myself I originally had a Banner Uni Bull 690 over 70 and my replacement was a Bosch S5 Type 96 at 800 over 80. Best of luck. Lifestyle : Two 15 minutes trips once a week. The higher the voltage applied, the faster the battery will charge, charging at too high a voltage WILL damage your battery. A simple 100Ah open lead acid battery and a 180A charger connected to the battery discharged to 50% : - @ 50% full @ 13.2V current was 35A - @ 50% full @ 14,8V current was 160A [improvement of 457%] - @ 75% full @ 13.2V current was 1A - @ 75% full @ 14.8V current was 60A [improvement of 6000%] - two 15 minute periods @ 13.2V is 2 x 15 minute @ 21Ah, compared to ; - two 15 minute periods @ 14.4V is 2 x 15 minute @ 60Ah, is an improvement of about 300% The temperature sensor under the battery will drop [ temperature compensator's on modern alternators will compensate] the voltage output from about 14.0V to about 13.2V. The problem I have with this is the engine compartment soon reaches temp and the battery assumes its fully charged. - 13.20 volts is about what you would expect from [split diode - does not apply to Voyagers, and] this vehicle with a temp sensor & alternator compensator - 14.00 volts is about what you would expect from any typical alternator without a vehicle temp sensor & alternator compensator - 14.40 volts is what you would expect from a sealed lead acid to prevent [they tend to gas @ 50ºC] excessive gassing - 14.80 volts is what you can risk pushing it to with an open lead acid to prevent damage to other equipment connected to the battery at the same time NOTE01 : I wouldn't buy one, or use one, but in the interests of even handed-ness a spiral will do the job - make sure you get the right 'posts' for your type ! NOTE02 : There are IOD 7 functions that are 'live' when you think your car and battery are asleep, they pull a combined 0.025 ampere draw. I used a Maplins cheepo 4W solar panel which cost me £15 at the time, and it was useless. I used a top end German 80W solar system, woprked in the summer useless in the winter. IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST - reproduced from the workshop manual. The term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from fifteen to twenty five milliamperes (0.015 to 0.025 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. Up to twenty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned radio, and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment. A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty one days, may discharge the battery to an inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be used for twenty one days or more (stored), remove the IOD fuse from the Integrated Power Module (IPM). This will reduce battery discharging. Excessive IOD can be caused by: • Electrical items left on. • Faulty or improperly adjusted switches. • Faulty or shorted electronic modules and components. • An internally shorted generator. • Intermittent shorts in the wiring Optima thread here, type 96 describes all / any brand close to 80/800 such as the Varta E38 etc. Dont ever under any circumstances use one of those put your REG in here. Loads of info including cutting the battery tray walkthroughs here in this forum somewhere. Anyone with unexpectedly high off-draw should look for recent changes made to wiring, particularly new radio have been made to wiring leading to IOD issues and parasitic drain.

What would you do Mikey ? Guess the old girl has got a few more trips in her ! Spent ages sourcing this model . Might even treat her to a valet ?

Cheers mate

Hi I had the same problem. Changed fuel pressure relief valve at the end of the fuel rail - still cut out and difficult to start. Replaced fuel filter housing with uprated design (original can crack and let in air in where the fuel heater plugs in) - still cut out etc. Renewed all injectors and glow plugs - problem not solved. Changed fuel metering solenoid on the fuel pump - problem solved. Diagnostics are fairly limited, I took my car to a diesel specialist who used the lastest Bosch equipment. Also pressure tested the the output of the fuel pump, tests indicated all systems working OK. He did suggest changing the solenoid as a last resort. ctc