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Overheating and no heating I would say ther your thermostat it's closed at all time and need replacing and good system flush won't hurt

Keith, I will have that looked at by the diesel specialists I have found. I was wondering what the significance of having to turn off the ignition fully and restart using the full sequence might be - your conclusion is that by restarting the sequence, the LP activates and removes the air so the fuel gets through and the engine starts whereas just by turning the engine over without returning the ignition to zero, it doesn't? Very many thanks, Best, S

Yes I have constantly bleated that gordy .. .. and one main reason for my conclusion ! As a lifelong self-maintainer I would have fought anyone accusing me of less than 'super diligent' maintenance yet when I did a complete [oil] [water] [brake fluid] [autobox] change of all wets I was mortified to find a lumpy carrots and tatties in the coolant. Unless you yourself have maintained it from brand new, and none of us will have always assume all three are well knackered. The brake fluid is hydroscopic, the wrong cheepo oil / filters and coolant is always used by both garages and pet fitters. Do your car a favour, this trilogy of fluids are your lifeblood. Never backflush a RAD, always use HOAT, it will self bleed from the expansion bottle, always open the heater to full belt and change the fluid in the matrix. Best of luck. HOAT only coolant ATF+4 only Mopar Spec AutoBox oil