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Andy, Many thanks for your extremely helpful and informative response. I took her out this morning to check for sure if the oil light, etc., come on or not when the power cuts and would you believe it, for the very first time since the problem started, she ran faultlessly! Perhaps it's because I drove very smoothly and quite slowly without any hard acceleration? I'll take her out again later and have another try. No, I don't have a red indicator on top of the steering column but I've just noticed an unidentified rocker switch on the RHS of the column and just seen the traction control switch for the first time (it's notionally my wife's vehicle, I've only really started driving it since the problem started....). I tried the 3 times ignition on "key dance" and got P1130 fault code in the odometer window which seems to confirm that the problem is fuel pressure - possible faults under that code in Chrysler documentation are: P1130-FUEL RAIL PRESSURE MALFUNCTION LEAKAGE DETECTED. P1130-FUEL RAIL PRESSURE MALFUNCTION PRESSURE TOO HIGH-SHUT OFF P1130-FUEL RAIL PRESSURE MALFUNCTION PRESSURE TOO LOW P1130-FUEL RAIL PRESSURE MALFUNCTION SOLENOID OPEN Also, it took 6 long seperate turnovers to cold start this morning but once warmed up it starts first turn of the key - faulty glow plugs maybe a red herring here? You are clearly much more knowledgeable, (my car mechanics experience goes back to when "God was a boy" and I worked in a garage on Saturdays and school hols then repaired my first car for reasons of poverty rather than love of car repairs!) but I find it odd that the cut out always occurs under load, never when the car is idling even when revved - this seems to rule out the Fuel Pump - SOLENOID (mentioned above in the fault codes). Your fuel lines do look very pristine, maybe a previous owner was having this problem and they got replaces as part of the hunt for the fault? Crank Position Sensor sounds a possibility - maybe that would explain why mine always restarts easily after the cutout? Maybe I'm grasping at straws...... I replaced the Mass Air Filter after getting a P100 code some months back and it seemed to solve that particular problem (running rough, loss of power) so maybe it's all inter-related? Anyway, my new filter and filter housing for the HP Pump will be here in a few days ditto your crank sensor so we'll see where that gets us! LOL Thanks for your help once again, Best, S

Hi Steve, Interesting, thanks for the feedback, I'm also thinking it's not injectors as i'd expect more return flow from one or more, and in theory I'd hear 'missing' where one or more were not firing correctly (due to over or under fuelling), which isn't the case, this is a complete cut out. Interesting the immobiliser, does yours have the red indicator on top of the steering column? If so, does that light during the problem, mine doesn't which is why I'm also eliminating the immobiliser in my case (If the car gets immobilised I'd expect cut out and all dash lights to go out, mine remains lit with what you'd expect if you stalled the car, oil pressure light, etc). The fact that you need to lock then unlock the car though is a decent thinking that it's related to the BCM/Immobiliser on yours, or the chip in the key perhaps. Have you a spare set of keys, if so I'd give those a go to see if any difference? So today I've checked the fuel filter/lift pump. To clear up the confusion, mine is a 2.8CRD 2004/2005 which has an electric lift pump at the rear beside the tank, the filter is inside the plastic pump housing. I've attached photos to be clear! (There are so many variations) Checked the plastic housing, O-ring, filter and what I could see of the fuel lines and all look good to me, no cracks in the filter housing, filter itself in decent condition, etc. So now onto my next thought, crank position sensor. I've ordered a replacement VM Motori replacement crank sensor so will swap that and see what I find next! Good luck Steven, hope you get yours tracked down. This is the filter and electric lift pump housing, which is on the driver side (RHD) of the fuel tank just in front of the rear axle: Filter and plastic base housing has been unscrewed/removed: Looking straight up into the pump housing: Fuel lines running towards front of vehicle. Is it just me or do these look new-ish condition? I think they do and the tank looks relatively new too, so could these have been replaced before I purchased a couple of years ago perhaps? So onto the crank sensor. If it's not crank sensor then perhaps fuel solenoid or high pressure pump itself.

It's exactly like mine: -The tool with red handle is for the tensioner pully( be careful as on mine the pins snapped, I fitted some screws in the holes) - the tool like a nidle is for the shaft balancer( only need it if the engine has been dismantled) - from bottom left first one is for the exauhst cam shaft( the one towards the car, the hole is near the thermostat) - second one left is for the intake camshaft( the hole is behind the alternator) Third one left is for the crankshaft( the hole is behind the starter thus needing to be removed) The other ones are for other engines like jeep Cherokee or different models of grand voyagers. If I may suggest: I shared an YouTube link with a Russian guy doing a cam belt replacement which is very useful (is somewhere in my posts) After making sure everything is locked, I undone the camshafts bolts, doing that it makes it very easy to put the new one up, but when tightened them back on pit something between the pullies to block them for twisting( for the exauhst cam above and for the intake cam below, I used a small ratchet extension) also remember to get the wipers cover and motor casing out to have more room to put the exauhst blocking pin. And while you're there do the water pump too. Any more questions, please ask if I don't know I'm sure someone in here will give you an answer. Hope it helps.