Leaderboard

I gave up with the dealers as soon as it was out of warranty and have been looking after things myself ever since. When it went in for the last airbag recall I was waiting on drop links to arrive so I could replace them myself and the 'dealer' said, Oh do you know that one of the 'anti tension units' needs replacing? How much I asked? £842.23 was the reply! I asked them to explain in detail which part they were referring to? Seems that a pair of drop links cost around £30, ditto poly bushes, but if you fit Chrysler 'anti tension units' they come in a tad more expensive!! Same part just way more expensive The good news is there is nothing left to replace on the front end and its now handling as it should, could have been worse! I've put around £3k into upgrade parts that needed replacing over the last seven years but when you consider a dealer also quoted me £57 for a new oil cap and £48 for a sump plug, no, not a joke, then can you imagine what the dealer cost would have been? These are pretty simple cars, mechanically, and once the rubbish bits are junked and replaced with decent ones they should go on for many many years. Fingers crossed...

Is something I suggested to another 300c owner( at least the area where to look), I hope he reads this thread and sorts his clunking noise too. Very common of Ford too. The dealer doesn't want you to solve the problems with £13,50-15, they want you to spend hundreds if not thousands, I've been to a Chrysler dealer once, never in my life again. Glad it was that simple, sad it took a lot of money for you to get there.

Probably a charging issue, may also be the battery. That's the starting point. Not only do you want to check the charge rate, but first you will want to check the drop when cranking it over. If it drops too low then the battery is most likely on its last legs. And then if the charge rate is too high or low then that is another issue to resolve. If you cook the ecu, it tends to be terminal. And it is battery season after all.

Hi, to me it sounds the alternator is gone. It happened once on a L200, but I put the battery the other way around...more or less the same thing. If you have a multimeter, on DC with the engine idling, you should get around 14 volts. You probably think that if it would be the alternator you will have the battery light coming on the dash, not always. Hope it helps.