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Hi m8, It was me! And I'm actually right in the middle of doing exactly that. I've got a double-din Android head unit to install and so I'm mapping out all the wiring, amp system, how it works, etc. Good and bad news, the bad news is that if you want to replace the factory RB3 unit you're in for a lot of work as you'll have to replace the AMP too. The AMP (rear right hand side behind the speaker) powers on and controls its balance and fader using CANBUS, so tapping into that is a no-go (There are commercial boxes but at a few hundred quid I'd not be convinced without them letting me return it! And I'd rather not pay that kind of money). The good news is if you just want to 'push' audio in (Like the Parrot bluetooth systems, etc) then you can from the head unit outputs, as I've discovered all the ISO wiring harnesses are generally WRONG for my specific model, but by testing and careful trial and error I've found the left and right +/- speaker out from the factory head unit, so you'd be able to 'patch' into these to push audio (Factory head unit would have to be on and that would still control volume, fader, balance, etc). So my plan to do this: Remove factory AMP completely. Add additional wiring from the rear (where the amp was, and where it feeds all 8 speakers) to the front dash so I can wire the speakers direct into my new head unit My speakers are infinity (They don't say that on the front, but when I removed the speaker it shows infinity on it) Their ohms resistance is only 2, so they'll need a decent head unit to drive them. My head unit I bought is a 4x45watt unit which *should* be enough, but I'm going to have to pair the speakers together (two front left, two front right, two rear left, two rear right) so I'm going to put those in series to make a 4ohm load, which will reduce the output power but should allow for better control and without blowing the head unit. If volume is still too low then I'll have to bite the bullet and buy a replacement amp to install too. Hope that gives you a bit of info, as I progress I'll start to write it onto my website and youtube videos to follow!

Hi, well at last the problem has been corrected. Extensive searching and trial and error had led me down many avenues... and the final solution was found by accident after a heavy downpour when it was discovered that the seal to the bonnet had almost disintegrated and was not sealing the rain water from the engine compartment. This resulted in the discovery of water sitting on top of the fuse box. After further investigation it was discovered that the fuse box had a substantial amount of water inside it and the printed circuit inside the fuse box had started to corrode. I purchased a second hand fuse box of the same model and year and removed the damaged one and replaced it. And low and behold everything worked. I also removed the old bonnet seal and replaced it with a large self adhesive draft excluder made of rubber. Everything seems to be working fine so far. Thank you for your advice and I hope someone can benefit from my discoveries.