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Ah good thinking @@bignev I'm gonna give the aux inputs a go, I was basing that on my last GV which did the above. On the engine, all good and back on the road. It was a cracked flexplate in the end, so separated the autobox from the engine (bellhousing bolts, flexplate bolts removed from the starter motor hole when removed), got enough space to get the flexplate out and replaced. Cost from dealer was around £80 for the new flexplate. I've been planning on doing a full write-up on steps and gotchas doing it when I get round to it! All up and running and happy again though, cheers for asking m8 :-)

Battery Battery choice, like choosing a wife, provokes different opinions on what is beautiful. The issue however are simple. You should be looking for about 800CCA over 80aH, this is a physical size that will not fit the CRD battery tray, so get a big one and modify the tray, or get a smaller one and take your UK winter chances. There is a~n~other UK issue of lifestyle, its a use it or lose it condition. If like me you do 2000 miles per annum with two 15 minutes trips once a week you will regardless of battery size / cost never keep that battery charged, the BUS [over 7 or so days] at resting will use more than the 30 minutes the alternator was able to replace. Different people have success with different batteries, I'm sure the UK users will come to your aid with their suggestions, particularly the Scottish contingent who have an even colder climate than I. For myself I originally had a Banner Uni Bull 690 over 70 and my replacement was a Bosch S5 Type 96 at 800 over 80. Best of luck. Power seat fuse : are as stated droppers, as you have had your battery removed for 4 days the 'droppers' should re-set themselves via the BCM/IPM Lifestyle : Two 15 minutes trips once a week. The higher the voltage applied, the faster the battery will charge, charging at too high a voltage WILL damage your battery. A simple 100Ah open lead acid battery and a 180A charger connected to the battery discharged to 50% : - @ 50% full @ 13.2V current was 35A - @ 50% full @ 14,8V current was 160A [improvement of 457%] - @ 75% full @ 13.2V current was 1A - @ 75% full @ 14.8V current was 60A [improvement of 6000%] Its not linear so : - two 15 minute periods @ 13.2V is 2 x 15 minute @ 21Ah, compared to ; - two 15 minute periods @ 14.4V is 2 x 15 minute @ 60Ah, is an improvement of about 300% The temperature sensor under the battery will drop [ temperature compensator's on modern alternators will compensate] the voltage output from about 14.0V to about 13.2V. The problem I have with this is the engine compartment soon reaches temp and the battery assumes its fully charged. - 13.20 volts is about what you would expect from [split diode - does not apply to Voyagers, and] this vehicle with a temp sensor & alternator compensator - 14.00 volts is about what you would expect from any typical alternator without a vehicle temp sensor & alternator compensator - 14.40 volts is what you would expect from a sealed lead acid to prevent [they tend to gas @ 50ºC] excessive gassing - 14.80 volts is what you can risk pushing it to with an open lead acid to prevent damage to other equipment connected to the battery at the same time NOTE01 : There are IOD 7 functions that are 'live' when you think your car and battery are asleep, they pull a combined 0.025 ampere draw. I used a Maplins cheepo solar panel which cost me £15 at the time, and I have never been unable to start the car since. They are : • Electrical items left on. • Faulty or improperly adjusted switches. • Faulty or shorted electronic modules and components. • An internally shorted generator. • Intermittent shorts in the wiring Remote key fob Radio Heater blower Folding mirrors Central locks Interior lights when the key is in the ignition IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST - reproduced from the workshop manual - According to Chrysler's own workshop manual : Allow twenty minutes for the IOD to stabilize and observe the multi-meter reading. The low-amper- age IOD should not exceed twenty-five milliamperes (0.025 ampere). If the current draw exceeds twenty-five milliamperes, isolate each circuit using the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process in Step 4. The multi-meter reading will drop to within the acceptable limit when the source of the excessive current draw is disconnected. Repair this circuit as required; whether a wiring short, incorrect switch adjustment, or a component failure is at fault The term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from fifteen to twenty five milliamperes (0.015 to 0.025 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. Up to twenty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned radio, and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment. A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty one days, may discharge the battery to an inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be used for twenty one days or more (stored), remove the IOD fuse from the Integrated Power Module (IPM). This will reduce battery discharging. BatteryMOD I like many of us was an early adopter of AGM, most of us by now will be AGM. It occurs to me that the safe μF we chose for the buttonMOD could be changed to give closer to 14.4V than the 14.1 I was getting. I went 13.9 to 14.1 it would be nice to have that extra .3V, it would make a hell of a difference on a big 80aH even over such a short charging time frame as 15 minutes. I was thinking 22K Ω @ 1/2 watt would be a goodish guesstimate for keeping it under the 14.6[ish] although I'm sure it would be safe a little higher. I'll be happy if I can get to the extra .3's @ 14.4 * Tested .... smack on 14.4-6 winter and 14+ summer over a 6 month period steady across the REV range. This will better recover the winter loss more quickly. Of course in the summer the ALT output will be limited by the lower battery replenishment needs Well pleased !

Hi @@legonsuk ok so we reckon battery good, so now onto identifying IOD draw. When you had the meter instead of the fuse on IOD what current was it pulling? Remember to test like this: engine off, key off+out, driver door (all doors) shut, bonnet up. Wait 5 minutes (at least) then pop IOD fuse out, put meter in, wait again I'd say 5 minutes and take the reading. The reason for the delays? When the IOD is removed/re-added the car computer will wake up and go into it's more active state, you want to wait and see what it's like at idle/sleep state to get an idea what your idling current draw is. When it's in idle you should have the following characteristics: radio clock OFF, interior lights all OFF, any/all side/park lights OFF. One that seems to come up frequently is the amplifier is sometimes forced to be on all the time, generally with after-market radios or modifications to the audio system, so do you have an aftermarket radio or mod like that which could be forcing the amp to be constantly powered? Hope these help a bit more diagnostics, post back on what you find.

The part number would seem to be YY23BD1AA. Try a main dealer, they should be about £6 to £8 each. Or if a few of you got together we could get them from moparwholsaleparts.com in the States, just had a quick work out and even with delivery they would be around £8 each based on 4.